Alternator Replacement (3 Viewers)

[ponytl]

I guess I never posted up my alternator R&R experience. Penny is a 2000 100. It took me about 7 hours in a very, very hot apartment basement with frequent breaks.

I ordered two lifetime warranty alternators from Advance Autoparts. I was right to do this because one did not have the correct mounting holes and one had a buggered pulley. I had also gotten a nut from Beno at some point for some reason so I swapped the pulleys.

I did not have to do anything with the radiator. I took one bolt off that secured the P clamp that held the metal transmission cooling lines up front. It was a bugger to get the plug off the old alternator and get the alternator out from the bottom but it came out. I did damage the plug a bit but it is on and holds fine. I added considerable dialectic grease on reinstall. I removed the front right wheel to allow access to the alternator through the wheel well and took the PS pump loose to allow the alternator to slide off the upper mounting bolt.

It sucked under my conditions but I am now convinced I could do this on the road if I had too.

BTW. Before going with Advance Auto Parts junk I priced SBC High Output Alternators. Running a dual battery set up and a bunch of accessories it seemed like a good idea but after speaking with some folks more knowledgeable than myself, it was clear I could not justify the expense for something like that. Especially when the Advance one has a lifetime warranty. As my alternator has been submerged in water plenty, I would not want to ruin an expensive SBC that way.

For everyone's info the the SBC 100 series alternators price like this:

SBC-T4.7-250XP is $850
SBC-T4.7-270XP is $875

As you can see there is only a $25 difference between the two models and you get an extra 20 amps at driving speed and an extra 10 amps at idle.

Probably well worth it for some but not me. I do not have a welder on board.

My Advance was like $150.

if you buy from advance always go online and get a coupon code... trt30 is usually good for 30% off ... congrats on getting it done... easier to remove the wires after you take the alt off sometimes... but I think the dealers still quote $1600 for this job so at 7hr you made $200 an hour... not bad

 

[Hugh Heifer]

Thanks. I did finagle the plug off after the alternator was off its mount and kinda nose down and crooked. Cramped quarters in there. Terrible design.

 

[nnnnnate]

I got mine squared away a few Saturdays ago without too much trouble. On my '07 once I took a minute to look at things and think about it I didn't need to remove anything other than the bottom skid and the PS pump which were both easy enough. Initially I was trying to remove the PS bolts with a box end wrench then realized that I could use a long socket through the pulley if I positioned the holes on it right. I'm sure thats a given for most of the guys here but it wasn't for me. I don't have a ton of experience wrenching but I'm learning. I buggered up one of the bolts but got a replacement before I reinstalled everything.

I ended up ordering from Amazon for $200 and got the Denso unit.

 

[Medic83]

Just replaced my alternator. It was pretty easy. Took prob 1-1.5 hrs. I took a couple breaks. I have a 99 land cruiser. I followed the directions in the original page. Very easy. I have the 100 amp alternator. I called Toyota where I get all my parts to price the part out....with my discount, it was 265$ plus tax. I then read in this post that they are Denso rebuilds. I called Kragen's and they wanted 120$ plus 70$ core charge. I went this route . The part from Kragen's was in fact an exact part. It even had all the markings as the part I pulled out. So for the OEM rebuild for 120$ I couldn't pass it up.

Easy install....
Disco battery
Release tension on belt and slip off
Remove bolts to alternator
Remove bolts to power steering pump and push out of way (some people removed the pulley..no need)
Remove bracket to lines in center( one bolt)
Remove the clips or undo the bracket from alternator (one bolt)
Remove the plug in the rear and the terminal
Wiggle the alternator out....power steering pump moves no problem....just push firmly on lines and hoses...it will come out (i have the 100 amp one)
Ready for new part.
I removed the metal shield from the old part and put it on the new one. I put dielectric grease all over the plug (u can use Vaseline...I'm sure everyone has that!)
The part went in easier.
Re connect all the plugs and clips. Slip belt over.... Good to go!

I was very pleased on how easy it was. For once!!! There wasn't a hiccup.

Lifetime guarantee on the aftermarket part. Keep in mind...it was an OEM part rebuilt.

 

[Topoguide]

Just wanted to point out that all work to replace the alternator can be done from the top.

After having my cruiser torn down for the water pump, timing belt, and various spinning parts replacement I got it all back together just to have a new battery die, and the alternator stop working.

Having just been in there with new coolant, etc I wasn't real happy with the idea of tearing back into it. This thread confirmed what I thought as far as the ease of the job, but ran into the same issue as others. The alternator would not drop out the bottom. What I found was that without removing the ps pulley it can fenagle just right out the top next to the fender.

Here are the steps I took:

Remove PS Pump, hold out of the way with a strap (as referenced in this write up on changingthe timing belt)
Remove all wires from the Alternator reaching through from the top (going throught the fender well after removing the splash guard would work too)
Remove the alternator
Release the PS Pump and push towards the firewall
Bring Alternator up between the fender, Timing belt cover, ps pump, and hoses. (NOTE: I did not remove the ps pulley)
Put rebuilt alternator in the opposite of removal

** ALSO - I chose to have my alternator rebuilt. The total cost at the local shop was only $20 - the bearings were all good so it was a simple rebuild

 

[LimaBravo]

There are some great tips on here. A few to add:

You'll want a full charge on the battery before the project is finished so if yours is drained, start by putting it on a charger (or take it to advance).

The little grey plastic protector over the cable pops off really easily if you push from the front of the vehicle (the narrow part with the cable coming out of it). At least mine did.

I was able to do it by taking the PS pulley off and moving the hoses around from the bottom. As others have noted, it may make things easier to turn the steering wheel all the way to the right, take off the splash guard, and sit under the fender. Two of the more rigid lines have a fixed clamp near the middle of the radiator. Removing the bolt in the middle of the clamp gives a lot more freedom.

 

[r3run33]

hey this may be a stupid question but what were the symptoms before alternator going out? I have a whine which is intermittent not constant and thought is was the alternator but seems to be the power steering pump thing. I may replace both? (is this a bad idea?)

 

[Lowbudgetlc100]

whine, does it whine when you turn the steering wheel? check for ps fluid. might be low if so might be leaking

 

[r3run33]

no does not whine when turn left or right whines on idle and exceleration My first concern was the belt but I posted another tread here and some one mentioned the steering pump underneath alternator. My concern is that if I'm gonna pull that whole thing off why not replace both cause they are very close and connected but will see what happens.

 

[badlander]

Bad power steering units usually whine more loudly when turned against the steering stops.
Alternators will whine more while under load, such as when you have all of your lights on or heater/AC blower on.
Mine was louder on cold mornings too, before it gave out.

 

[spressomon]

Our alternators usually suffer demise if you've done alternator deep water crossings, etc. (ditto t-case output seals) Mine don't last very long ...which is why I opted, given poor performance of OEM reman Toyota (don't ask...search if your interested ), the last time for a lifetime warranty parts house alternator.

 

[boofaz]

Just wanted to point out that all work to replace the alternator can be done from the top.

After having my cruiser torn down for the water pump, timing belt, and various spinning parts replacement I got it all back together just to have a new battery die, and the alternator stop working.

Having just been in there with new coolant, etc I wasn't real happy with the idea of tearing back into it. This thread confirmed what I thought as far as the ease of the job, but ran into the same issue as others. The alternator would not drop out the bottom. What I found was that without removing the ps pulley it can fenagle just right out the top next to the fender.

Here are the steps I took:

Remove PS Pump, hold out of the way with a strap (as referenced in this write up on changingthe timing belt)
Remove all wires from the Alternator reaching through from the top (going throught the fender well after removing the splash guard would work too)
Remove the alternator
Release the PS Pump and push towards the firewall
Bring Alternator up between the fender, Timing belt cover, ps pump, and hoses. (NOTE: I did not remove the ps pulley)
Put rebuilt alternator in the opposite of removal

** ALSO - I chose to have my alternator rebuilt. The total cost at the local shop was only $20 - the bearings were all good so it was a simple rebuild

Was this on the 2000 LC I picked up from you? If so that alternator rebuild didn't last long. Having it replaced now.

 

[devildogcruiser25]

tackled this yesterday. by far the most frustrating thing I have ever done on a land cruiser. 7 hours and a broken bolt later, I have a jimmy rigged set up.

 

[djernie]

I just did mine today, no problems, just a strait swap. I drained the radiator in a bucket so i could reuse it then took off the lower radiator hose to give me space to get alternator out. I took off the negative cable from batt, then the serpentine belt. I then took off 10mm batt cable while alternator was still attached, and the electric power cable after i took it off, you also have to remove the power steering pump and pull it out of the way to get the alternator out. i then wiggled it out through the top of the truck. Took a couple of hours.

 

[bucfl]

Our alternators usually suffer demise if you've done alternator deep water crossings, etc. (ditto t-case output seals) Mine don't last very long ...which is why I opted, given poor performance of OEM reman Toyota (don't ask...search if your interested ), the last time for a lifetime warranty parts house alternator.

Well this sucks cuz all we have in Florida is water, mud and sand. Had the battery light come on after an outing. Luckily a good engine wash fixed it. Had already purchased a Denso so I have a spare now. Will search on the tcase seals.

Thx!

 

[re_guderian]

Was this on the 2000 LC I picked up from you? If so that alternator rebuild didn't last long. Having it replaced now.

Pretty sure this was on his '03.

 

[KINGER]

Limped the hooptie home last Friday after I lost dash gauges and power on the highway. Was impressed with how critical systems like steering and brakes were left intact as radio/AC/gauges were cut. Diagnosed problem as bad alternator because battery wasn't charging but passed test at local trusted auto parts store. No record of alternator ever having been replaced in 207k miles and it looks the part.

First. To anyone considering doing this for the first time and expecting it to take 1-2 hours as some people have quoted here: be aware that it took me, a man of average mechanical ability but HERCULEAN strength (jk lol), about 5-6 hours to do this using the tips from this thread. The redeeming fact is this was my first time working under the engine on this truck and so familiarity was lacking. Also, gf asked to wrench with me (woohoo!) which slowed me down a tiny bit was a great help thank you baby. I'm confident that now I could do it in an hour or two.

Many thanks to Utahfj62 and the other contributors to this thread. The tips and tricks for getting the alternator out were invaluable. I will add that removing the PS pulley is very easy (immobilized with a wrench extension through the pulley gaps and braced on the PS pump or alternator) and possibly easier than moving the entire pump. The PS pulley bolt is said to be a non-reusable part but as others have said there doesn't seem to be anything special about it, I reused it. It comes off normal counter-clockwise direction. Most difficult and worrisome part was forcing the alternator past the rubber coolant hoses and tranny cooler lines out the bottom without tearing them.

In the end, it turns out my problem might have been just the battery and a 15A gauge fuse. New alternator though lol!

 

[LXPearl]

Our 01LX alternator and battery died last year while my wife was out of town at night in the rain at 239k miles. They were replaced by the dealer. 3 weeks later, the lights were getting dim and the alt was charging at only half its rating (100A). The replacement charged at 98A and has run fine since. I appreciate knowing that the aftermarket may have the exact same Denso unit and even with a lifetime warranty for future reference; and the instructions are much appreciated in case I need them on another replacement. I would be pleased if the replacement unit lasted for 14 years or 200k ....

 

[Ironman2011]

Anyone pulled and replaced their alternator yet? I'm at 189K miles and the bearings in mine are shot - I decided to replace the entire alternator instead of trying to rebuild and replace bearings.

If anyone has suggestions or tips on best way to remove and replace it speak up. I'm going to be doing the job in the coming week - I'll post up picks and a write up - if it goes well. If I run into trouble and get pissed - write up will be doubtful.

_________________________
Info possibly useful to others:
I have a 1999 Land Cruiser. Just removed the alternator with some of the tips in this thread out the bottom of the vehicle ... it was a pain ... I can't believe that either of the 2 original small "rubber" hoses (which run towards the PS side of the engine and transition to 2 metal pipes under the alternator that I believe must go to the transmission) could handle being bent back over on itself with no apparent damage as I forced the alternator past them ... I expected that they would be "crunchy" feeling given their age, but they seemed soft and pliable. I did have to remove the 3 power steering pump mounting bolts and hold it up out of the way to allow the alternator to slide forward off the mounting stud. Regarding the electrical connector, it was impossible for me to remove it by hand after pushing in its release tab. I used a very small straight bladed screw driver and dug it into the shell of the connector a little, slightly below the level of the sheet metal cover that surrounds it and pried it up ... this was surprisingly easy ... it just started sliding up ... the small diameter screw drive put a very small dent in the sheet metal and the leverage point. I also unclipped the large radiator hose from a clip that is about halfway up the PS side of the radiator to allow it to move more easily towards the PS side. I also removed one bolt from the bracket that holds the 2 hard lines near the center of the cross member for some more wiggle room. Seems like there was another plastic clip holding some rubber hose to the center hard lines that I unclipped for more wiggle room as well. Then I forcefully pushed the alternator into the large radiator hose and bent the hoses going to the transmission (I suppose) all over the place and rotated and wiggled the alternator out ... no fun. Maybe taking off the air cleaner assembly and getting it past the power steering pump and out the top would have been easier but I don't know. The part numbers confirmed it was the 100 ampere version.

Now on to my problem ...

Symptoms:
BAT light illuminated on the outbound trip, then parked for a couple of hours.
On the return trip the radio and lights started to dim/flicker, then the engine died.

Background:
battery is probably at end of its life (Nov 2011 date code and it is now Nov 2016)
there appears to be good (basically a short) resistance between the negative battery cable and chassis

I took a new battery from a Honda Civic that is smaller in size that was fully charged and installed it in the LC. The voltage was ~ 13.1-13.2 Vdc. I then started the LC with that battery and measured 11.98 - 12.1ish at idle with everything turned off that I could turn off. So I told myself that it must be the alternator. So I proceeded to remove the alt as described above. I took the alternator to 2 different shops and it passed both tests on a machine that spins the alternator and checks various things ... but it didn't tell how many amperes it was producing (or essentially how much the alternator was loaded as compared to its 100 ampere rating). The tech said that that was probably preprogrammed in the machine based on the model number of the alternator that was used as an input but that he didn't know for sure. So I decided to check the resistance between the charging wire that runs from the alt and the positive battery cable because I wondered if a fuse/link was open. The resistance was good (basically it just indicated the resistance of the leads I was using).

Questions:
1) Is the LC designed so that it doesn't charge the battery at idle with all accessories turned off? Hence when I saw ~ 12.0 Vdc on my meter at idle with everything turned off and thought that the alternator was bad that it was actually a normal condition and maybe I should have had my helper hold a higher rpm on the engine and then turned on some accessories before I should expect to see ~ 14 Vdc.
2) Before I measured the resistance between the charging wire that runs between the alt and the positive battery cable I started to check the fuses at the positive battery cable connector. I had difficulty pulling them so I just measured the resistance between there and the alt charging wire as described above and all seemed good. What I noticed is that there was 1 slot with no fuse in it and the cover indicated that this was the "MAIN 100A" fuse. According to the cover there should/could be 4 fuses: "ALT-S 7.5A", "MAIN 100A", "ALT 140A", and "J/B No.2 100A". I assume that this has nothing to do with my alternator issues since I didn't remove any fuses and everything seemed to be functioning properly prior to the car dying. I had just never felt the need to open that cover. Can anyone verify that this is normal for a '99 LC? It has heated seats and an electric sunroof.

Trying to decide whether to reinstall the original alternator and just get a new battery.

Thank you.

 

[stinkyfj60]

I'm in the process of doing mine. Honestly, coming out of the top was way easier. There was plenty of room if I pushed the PS pump out of the way. No, I didn't have to remove that splash guard in the fender well. But, unclipping the hoses in the area gives you a little more flexibility.