Builds Aloha from Las Vegas! 77 FJ40 Project

[1MAC]

Steering is done too!
I fabbed up a simple mount for a Heim joint and now the steering shafts are all set. Made my power steering hoses with Earl’s AN steering hose, and plumbed in a Raybestos inline filter that will also help cool the fluid.
I wasn’t really looking forward to the classic Saginaw one-finger “Grandma’s Oldsmobile” steering feel but was resigned to living with it. Then I stumbled on a post here about reducing the pressure output of the truck pump. Looked around online and learned that the 5.3L pump puts out about 14-1500 psi and the old Saginaw boxes are used to something more like 1000. Borgeson makes a kit that allows you to stack shims in the pressure valve and take it down where you want it. Easy 10 minute mod and I hope it will prevent the twitchy, overboosted feel.

 

[1MAC]

Working on wiring the engine now- trying to get the engine bay configuration laid out so I know where everything runs. I used a Spectre intake for a Chevy Silverado and added a 45* elbow to put the filter over by the fresh air vent. The OEM harness gives me plenty of length to put the computer in the glovebox. I’ll put a fuse box for the engine on the passenger fender and the battery will sit over the driver side shock tower.

 

[1MAC]

All the unnecessary wires are out of the engine harness. Just need to supply the computer with power and ground. Making up a fuse box with 5 circuits for injectors, sensors, coils, the DBW module, computer, etc. and relays for the fuel pump, fan, and headlights.

 

[1MAC]

Another milestone achieved today. A legend of the TLCA community, @tornadoalleycruiser came over today and helped me plumb the fuel system. We ran short supply and return hoses to bulkheads on the floor, then 3/8 aluminum hardlines from there to the firewall right behind the intake. Two short hoses from the firewall to the fuel rails and we were done. Primed the fuel pump and found one leak which just required a little tightening.
At that point we looked at each other and said “Why not?!” Erik had the brilliant idea to repurpose a winch remote as a starter button, so we got out the jumper cables and powered everything up. Cranked the engine with the coils unplugged to prime the new oil pump and then gave it a test fire. No spark. Went back to doublecheck all the plugs and Erik asked “Do you need to plug in the computer?” The next attempt was successful- it fired right up and sounded healthy through open headers!

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

Glad I could help bring the prop value down with the beater 100 series! Stupid windy out today, not the day to drive a huge brick across kansas city! Rare picture of Mike working on his own truck. Best part of a motor swap is hearing it cough to life for the first time.

 

[ZFJ40]

Glad I could help bring the prop value down with the beater 100 series! Stupid windy out today, not the day to drive a huge brick across kansas city! Rare picture of Mike working on his own truck. Best part of a motor swap is hearing it cough to life for the first time.

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[ZFJ40]

1MAC,
Did you use an aftermarket accessory kit or did you run the stock GM setup? Are you going to install A/C?

 

[1MAC]

Using all the original setup, just swapped in a rebuilt PS pump, new water pump, and the alternator was already replaced.
Ordering the Vintage Air kit Monday and hoping to use the compressor already on the engine.

 

[1MAC]

Went through the chassis wiring harnesses today and removed unnecessary wires:
1. VSV top, speed and idle solenoid from the engine circuit
2. Removed alternator and voltage regulator wiring
3. Pulled out wires to the emission computer
4. Removed factory heater and blower wiring

I also bypassed the ammeter- my first 40 shorted at that connection under a previous owner and melted the harness. I then re-routed the large white wire over to the driver side of the harness, so I can connect the fusible link to the relocated battery. I’m installing a Group 34/78 so I can reuse the GM starter and ground cables on the side terminals and hook up the winch and fusible link to the top posts.
Water temp and oil pressure sender wires are moved to run down the driver side of the harness to better match the layout on the LS.

I pulled out the ignition wiring, except for the BY 12g wire that went to the ballast resistor. That one will feed keyed power to the secondary fuse box that powers the ECM, fan and fuel pump.
Only thing left to do on the rear harness is to run new wires to the tail and license lights. Of course, I have new bits from @Coolerman to take care of that.
I’ve replaced all the turn signal, stop, reverse and license bulbs with LED and picked up the OEM Koito H4 bulb/relay kit from the dealer. The GM alternator puts out about 105 amps, so I should have plenty of juice to run everything, even with the addition of the electric fan and fuel pump and some modern conveniences like heated seats, stereo and power for a refrigerator.

 

[1MAC]

Vintage Air Gen IV kit with high performance blower upgrade ordered. They tell me it should only take about 15 weeks to get built.

 

[1MAC]

Still finishing up odds and ends on the wiring. It’s a domino effect- I put the hood on yesterday so I could check clearance on the intake and battery, then installed turn signals so I can make the missing ends of the harness.
Today is radiator fit-up day. I’m using the Champion 3-row, since a 4 row is so big. I had them make it up with the inlet on the passenger side to match the engine and they added a steam port. Went ahead and threw the electric fan and shroud in the order for a complete package.
I previewed the Vintage Air installation instructions to see what it will take to clear the condenser. Ended up drilling the frame holes 3/4 back and 1/4” to passenger so I have good clearance to the steering and should be able to drop a condenser in.
I had to notch the radiator shell in the corners and open up the hole in the bottom for better access to the petcock. While I was at it, I cut the spotwelds on the brace and peeled it off. Shot a fresh coat of paint on the whole thing and called it good.

 

[1MAC]

With all new fuel tank and lines to the engine, I decided to replace the fill and vent hoses. The fill hose is NLA from Toyota, but I found a Gates fuel hose that’s the right size and has the same bend, just had to cut it to length.

The weird braided hose for the fill vent/overflow is still available at the dealer.

A bunch of generic 5/16 fuel line will replace all the tank vent lines. I kept the OEM line from the tank up to the charcoal canister and hope to plumb it to the evap purge solenoid on the LS intake. Just trying to save the ozone layer and keep the gas smell to a minimum.

 

[Polecat]

Mike - loved to see this in person last weekend. What a cool rig. Impressive the thought you’ve put into each decision along the way. Let me know if you ever need help turning a wrench.

 

[1MAC]

Finished up the fuse block for the engine. Fun little project, and now I should be able to start the engine without holding wires to the battery and using a winch remote as a starter switch!
I have room for two more relays and may just put my headlight relays in there. The Toyota OEM headlight upgrade kit is totally plug and play, but I’d like to tidy up their wiring and not have the relays out in the open.

 

[1MAC]

Working furiously to get this thing drivable. I used a bottom radiator hose someone here suggested (Gates 20763) along with a 30 degree water neck and it seems to fit just fine.
Filled the radiator with the GM style dex-cool stuff, since that’s what was in the engine previously.
Made a new return line for the steering that fits better under the bib and then purged all the air I could out of the pump. Installed a Raybestos filter inline that will also act as a bit of a cooler.
My bumper showed up from CCOT this week and I got it hung today. Nice piece and I bought their stainless bolt kit with it.

 

[1MAC]

Also installed the reproduction transfer case shifter from @TRAIL TAILOR , so now I can wiggle all the levers. I was so relieved when I dropped the trans tunnel cover and everything lined up.
I’m not wild about the look of the H55F shifter, so I’ll try a 4spd cane from a friend and see how it looks.

 

[1MAC]

The next chapter: solving the gas pedal challenge. My donor engine came out of a Suburban with adjustable pedals, so it’s a huge apparatus. The engine is Drive-By-Wire, so I have to use a pedal that’s compatible with the TAC module and ECU. I was not interested in converting to DBC, so I researched available pedal options. Most people recommend a C5 Corvette pedal. It will plug right in and work, but the pedal arm is relatively horizontal and it’s a stamped piece.
The diesel trucks use a pedal that is ideal for a vertical firewall, and can be used with the 5.3L DBW engine if you modify the wiring harness.
I took a knife to the plug and re-pinned a few wires.
Plugged everything back together and the rig fired right up. Success!
Then I worked on fitting the pedal to the firewall. I was in Vegas last week on vacation (again!) and took the opportunity to visit Man-a-Fre in person. Rick helped me figure out that they make a bracket to mount a DBW pedal to the 40.

Edit: BTB calls it a Lokar throttle sending unit bracket, SKU 50-5187

Today, I took the backing plate off the pedal, drilled a few holes in the MaF bracket and bolted it all up. Fits perfectly and it should be easy to adapt the FJ40 pedal arm to it, since it’s a steel rod of similar diameter.

DBW Pedal mount

 

[FJmaine]

Pulled the rear axles today, cleaned them up and painted the hubs. Replaced the axle seals- bearings were perfect so I left them alone. The diff gears and oil looked like new. Nice to find good news when you open stuff up.
Installed GM metric calipers using @Poser brackets and a bunch of parts from O’Reilly! I did have to grind clearance for the banjo bolts and reduce the hump on one caliper (one had a smaller bump!).
This will be awesome going from single-circuit 4 wheel drum brakes on my ‘65 to power-assisted 4-wheel disc brakes on this build!

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Do you have any pics of the brake hose coming out of the caliper? I am in the middle of installing my rear discs and I am struggling to find a good path for the line. The one that came with the kit is only about 6" and would need to bend hard against the axle.

 

[1MAC]

Do you have any pics of the brake hose coming out of the caliper? I am in the middle of installing my rear discs and I am struggling to find a good path for the line. The one that came with the kit is only about 6" and would need to bend hard against the axle.

I think most people end up grinding a little off the caliper to allow the hose to come off at about 90 degrees. That’s what I did.

 

[FJmaine]

I think most people end up grinding a little off the caliper to allow the hose to come off at about 90 degrees. That’s what I did.

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Got a part number for that hose?