Allow me to introduce...."Chunk" (my 60 Build thread)

[Trapper50cal]

Quick update...

Took Chunk down to Wolf Creek Rod Works and helped Don swap out the old Tierod ends for new, japanese 555 units (Thanks Kurt) and replaced the brake master cylinder. Got to adjust the play out of the pitman arm while we had the draglink and steering arm off. Tight as a drum now...(but not too tight) and the brakes are much better. Happy day for Chunk!

"Tool-Worth-It's-Weight-In-Gold" of the day: Impact Pickle Fork.

 

[Corbet]

I bet that prevented hours of

 

[Trapper50cal]

I bet that prevented hours of

The OEM Steering Stabilizer (which was still good to my amazement) was the hardest to get off.

 

[Trapper50cal]

Time to resurrect my own thread guys

It's been a couple years and change since I posted in here...such is married life I guess...

Ironically, when searching on Mud for my current problem, I came upon my other FJ60's
build thread. Opposite problem unfortunately.

So this time, my 60 is running hot most the time. Not redline hot but in the upper portion
of safe on the gauge. On that subject, I'm pretty sure the gauge is working properly and giving
a good estimation of temp range.

The problem is the fan engagement. It almost never engages fully (the times where you can hear it)
unless I'm pulling a hill and even then, not always.

So I figured fan clutch....bought an Aisin, popped it in...no improvement.

Now I'm kinda stumped.

I mean, I know the problem is that it's not reaching/exhibiting that fully engaged stage
frequently or early enough but I don't know what else it could be....

potential culprits:

sticky thermostat? (so only partial flow and restricted cooling?)
water pump? (seems like if it were this, it would never work and overheat)
Clogged radiator? (would it cool to median operating temp when finally, fully engaged if this were the case?)
Bad belt? (haven't heard any screeching and doesn't appear to be slipping)

I haven't checked the coolant level yet because I haven't had any reason to suspect leaking
and it's cold as balls outside....

Any suggestions would be appreciated while I poke around some more....

Cheers!

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

JT,

I'd change the thermostat first (cheapest route) if still an issue, pull the radiator and take it to be cleaned/rodded.

Andrea is looking at a place in Dolores.....

J

 

[Trapper50cal]

Nice! Dolores has some mighty fine fishing and hunting

That's what I was thinking on the t-stat...

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Does it cool off when you run the heater full blast? Do you really trust the gauge?

I hope it's the thermostat, but cooling issues almost always come down to replacing the radiator. I would first confirm your temp gauge is accurate, but assuming it is, I would just do everything. Radiator, thermostat, fresh coolant etc, and then you'll be good for 5+ years.

 

[Trapper50cal]

Andrew,

It cools slightly (5-10% lower) with the heater on, but not substantially.

It really does seem to be a case of the clutch not engaging as often, because once it
does, the gauge drops to middle of safe range pretty quickly...which leads me to believe
the other components are capable of running at the proper temp.

It's just not kicking on when it reaches a certain temp. level like it used to maybe 2 months ago...

I also find it odd that it maintains a temp (albeit high) that remains in the safe range
without it kicking on.

Can bad flow (at either the t-stat or in the rad) cause these symptoms?

 

[Trapper50cal]

Alright....I'm going to take Andrew's and Beno's ( had to throw a call out to Onur ) advice and
get my hands on an infrared, point and shoot thermometer. See what we're really dealing with
if anything.

I think I'm also going to swap out the thermostat just as a matter of preventative maintenance.

 

[Trapper50cal]

Alright....Issue identified.

Upon further inspection, what appeared to be oil on top of the timing gear cover was, in fact,
dirt saturated in coolant.

This was confirmed by the fact that the radiator took almost two gallons of 50/50. duh......

filled it up, ran it to operating temp (which is now right below middle on the gauge) and it
doesn't get hot and the top of the timing gear cover has a little fresh wetness on it.....

Water pump.

No other leaks though

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Alright....Issue identified.

Upon further inspection, what appeared to be oil on top of the timing gear cover was, in fact,
dirt saturated in coolant.

This was confirmed by the fact that the radiator took almost two gallons of 50/50. duh......

filled it up, ran it to operating temp (which is now right below middle on the gauge) and it
doesn't get hot and the top of the timing gear cover has a little fresh wetness on it.....

Water pump.

No other leaks though

Good, but bad news at the same time. Quick change out. I'd swap out the thermostat, belts, change hoses if needed, and clean the radiator at the same if it were me and budget allowed.

J

 

[Trapper50cal]

I'm just not going to be able to do the radiator...but I did plan on:

waterpump
gasket to block
t-stat
t-stat inner gasket
t-stat housing gasket
new belts
waterpump bypass hose

rest of the hoses are "modern"

Just a bit below $200 with Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters all said and done.

 

[Trapper50cal]

Random Question:

Can an inoperable air pump (de-vaned) cause bad manifold vacuum if all other emissions items
(such as air rail) are intact?

Seems to me that an air rail which is not actively pumping air into the head could then be
leeching vacuum....or do I have that wrong due to intake vs. exhaust and how vacuum is
generated.....

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

It shouldn't. The vane pump is just a mover of air and has little pressure. Vacuum is generated from two things. The carb, which has two air restrictions (the diameter of the carb throat and the butterfly), and the action of the piston moving form TDC to BDC on the intake cycle. These two things together generate vacuum. Unlike a diesel which has no vacuum at all.

 

[Trapper50cal]

okay, so it's the intake side only....It must be that blowby that's effecting the manifold vacuum numbers....

Thanks Jimmy.

 

[Trapper50cal]

New body parts for this Frankenstein....LOL


New Door - old one, the "skin" was delaminated from the frame...

New hood - old one had around 15 coats of paint on it, in addition to multiple dents
and all the old paint had cracked all the way down to metal. (Like crazing on ceramic glaze)

Next up - Got the door and donor rocker.

No before on this but I did some tree & tow strap bumper straightening...
corner used to dig into the front fender.....

After that rocker/door and some rust in the rear wheel wells, it's prep for paint.

Since the truck (and it's jambs) are 4E8 Desert Bronze, I'm going to go with a
color called 2301 Driftwood Biege with a TCPGlobal HotRod Flatz...generally looks
like a flat and slightly faded 4E8.

At least that's the game plan right now.

 

[Trapper50cal]

torn down...

back together...

So let's see...

Thermostat - OEM 180º
T-stat seal - OEM
housing gasket - OEM
lower housing to block gasket - OEM
BVSV 1 & 2 - OEM
New silicone vacuum line for those
Waterpump - AISIN
waterpump to block gasket - OEM
Little PITA oil cooler hose - Goodyear
bypass hose (bag said bypath?) - OEM
New clamps
New Belts - OEM


I gotta say, putting belts on is SOOO much nicer with the Rad/Fan/Grill/etc.
off the truck.

 

[Corbet]

Did the radiator "plug" pass the pressure test?

 

[Trapper50cal]

Did the radiator "plug" pass the pressure test?

Most definitely! Not a speck of moisture from anywhere....(knock on wood)

Thanks for the bolt and "thread dope" ...and the Dremel to get out the
broken bit of petcock.

 

[Trapper50cal]

Happy Veterans Day to all who served or are serving

Grandpa circa 1943...