- Thread starter
- #981
If you get the new ones I got I don't think you will need to do any sheet metal work. I only had to do it to fit the ones that were in the BJ70 I had that I installed and replaced with the new ones.
Builds AK HJ-75
- Thread starter coldtaco
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #982
Snorkel is on.
Does that style of snorkel move more air that the Land Cruiser version?
- Thread starter
- #984
I would like to think so, when I built it I think I showed the joint of the factory one and how squished it is. This is 3" all the way to the filter housing, but the filter housing inlet is like 2"7/8" ish so still a little restriction, when I get bored (ha ha) I will probably tackle that part.
- Thread starter
- #985
Pinch weld cover finally done. Could not find any of the upper half so I bought one door set from a 79 and cut to length for both sides. Of course you can’t buy the end caps so I bought 4 of these so I can steal the end caps to finish it out.
- Thread starter
- #986
Drivers interior door trim changed. Only thing left brown are the seats- maybe grey/blue seat covers
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
Looks nice; great job on the trim. Reminds me of my FJ55 windshield gasket odyssey. I have 6 FJ60 w/moulding windshield gaskets in a box that I hope one day to make 1 windshield and 2 cargo gaskets from.....only maybe 50% sure it will work at this point.
You need some of those slick bottom door pod things that @c2dfj45 has on his truck to put those speakers in.
You need some of those slick bottom door pod things that @c2dfj45 has on his truck to put those speakers in.
Man those seats... perfect fit and in such nice condition. Tried searching your thread... how'd you find these? What are they from?
- Thread starter
- #989
They are from a 1999ish 4Runner
Did I miss where you tabbed up brackets? I'm assuming you modified them to fit the factor mounting points?
They look SO much better than the bench.
They look SO much better than the bench.
- Thread starter
- #991
I don’t remember if I posted working on the mounts, I would have to go through this thread. Was kind of a pain not knowing what I am doing. I used some aluminum L channel on the left/right side of the seats and some flat stock steel in the front/rear to connect the right/left side and bolted the aluminum to the seat runners. I know this is probably hard to understand without pictures.
I get the gist of it... so you didn't do any welding? Just steel stock on the front/rear stock mounting points and then aluminum L channel run across the steel to align with the new seat's runners. Yeah?
Thick aluminum? Not worried about it fatiguing over time? I guess you don't slide the seats front/back very much anyway...
- Thread starter
- #993
Like I said it’s hard to explain without pictures. The aluminum L channels are what the seats are mounted to , right side and left side. The steel connects the right/left sides. The runners are bolted to both the steel plate and the aluminum L.
- Thread starter
- #994
So, now that I have had some time behind the 12HT, some observations.
When I first started driving it, it was pretty boggy below 2000rpm. It also was boggy once up to hwy speeds (55-65mph) and hitting a light incline or wanting to speed up from say 55mph to 65mph. So started to play with the two fuel settings. I was able to get the acceleration below 2000rpm to improve some without any noticeable black smoke. Acceleration up inclines at hwy speeds improved somewhat. Hard acceleration up some of these inclines had boost at about 16psi and egt at about 650-700F. I think I have the front fuel screw out just about all the way. I turned in the aft fuel screw about 3/4 turn. This is with the factory air housing and 3" snorkel, the intake piece of the factory air box is 2 3/4". I remembered that I had a airbox from the 86 BJ70 I had with a safari snorkel. So I found it and looked at it and the intake adapter provided by Safari is 3 1/4" size. So I replaced the air box's and took the cover provided to plug the original intake from the 3B. What a difference this provided. So, this engine needs a big air intake. Now when driving my test route north out of town about 30mi. each way it accelerated below 2000rpm close to how I would like it to, and at hwy speeds (65mpg) I would hardly have to increase throttle input to keep the speed up the hills on this route. I even would have to back off a little once it found it's happy place. EGT's never got above 700F. Cruise at 65mph boost is about 12psi and EGT at just below 550F. I think I would have had better results from the 2H-T I had if I had provided a bigger air inlet. Need to start looking into doing a 4" intake/snorkel.
When I first started driving it, it was pretty boggy below 2000rpm. It also was boggy once up to hwy speeds (55-65mph) and hitting a light incline or wanting to speed up from say 55mph to 65mph. So started to play with the two fuel settings. I was able to get the acceleration below 2000rpm to improve some without any noticeable black smoke. Acceleration up inclines at hwy speeds improved somewhat. Hard acceleration up some of these inclines had boost at about 16psi and egt at about 650-700F. I think I have the front fuel screw out just about all the way. I turned in the aft fuel screw about 3/4 turn. This is with the factory air housing and 3" snorkel, the intake piece of the factory air box is 2 3/4". I remembered that I had a airbox from the 86 BJ70 I had with a safari snorkel. So I found it and looked at it and the intake adapter provided by Safari is 3 1/4" size. So I replaced the air box's and took the cover provided to plug the original intake from the 3B. What a difference this provided. So, this engine needs a big air intake. Now when driving my test route north out of town about 30mi. each way it accelerated below 2000rpm close to how I would like it to, and at hwy speeds (65mpg) I would hardly have to increase throttle input to keep the speed up the hills on this route. I even would have to back off a little once it found it's happy place. EGT's never got above 700F. Cruise at 65mph boost is about 12psi and EGT at just below 550F. I think I would have had better results from the 2H-T I had if I had provided a bigger air inlet. Need to start looking into doing a 4" intake/snorkel.
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The Safari ARMAX snorkel is a 4 inch vs 3 1/2 on the regular type.
It may be a special order for the narrow nose. It was for the wide nose 70-series with a 2 month lead time to the US. The @cruiseroutfit gang got me hooked up with the order. Or pay $600 for direct shipping from 'straya.
Something to look into.
It may be a special order for the narrow nose. It was for the wide nose 70-series with a 2 month lead time to the US. The @cruiseroutfit gang got me hooked up with the order. Or pay $600 for direct shipping from 'straya.
Something to look into.
- Thread starter
- #996
Thanks will look into that.The Safari ARMAX snorkel is a 4 inch vs 3 1/2 on the regular type.
It may be a special order for the narrow nose. It was for the wide nose 70-series with a 2 month lead time to the US. The @cruiseroutfit gang got me hooked up with the order. Or pay $600 for direct shipping from 'straya.
Something to look into.
Yeah my Safari snorkel on my 80 doesn’t pull in enough air for the 6BT. I have a hole in the air box to pull in more and a plate to bolt on if needed for water crossing.
On the 75 I’ll be figuring out a custom 4”. Or maybe you will first.
On the 75 I’ll be figuring out a custom 4”. Or maybe you will first.
- Thread starter
- #998
So, finally locked the hubs and put it in 4HI for the first time in over 2 yrs. Hatcher Pass, road was compacted snow/ice for the whole way up, about a 2.5-3.0mi.
Your tire and rim combo looks great. Everything on the truck does!
- Thread starter
- #1,000
So, I went 700km on the front tank before I chickened out and switched to the rear. This is with tanks filled to the top. The odometer shows 715km since I did run off the back 15km after filling them both up.
