asutherland
VA7 HDT
- Thread starter
- #21
No idea since it was made long before synthetic was available. Do you have any idea?
Aisin 80 series factory winch rebuild (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter asutherland
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No idea since it was made long before synthetic was available. Do you have any idea?
Why wouldn't it be? I've never heard anyone ask that before, I was unaware that was a possibility.
asutherland
VA7 HDT
- Thread starter
- #23
The slipperier nylon rope actually causes more constricting force on the drum. In some documented cases Warn winches have damaged drums. For example, see http://www.expeditionportal.com/res...40-tug-of-war-the-ultimate-12v-winch-test.pdf
Interesting!
I've been watching this thread since you started it, not a lot of forum posts on this unit. Lots of great info in here.
Cruisin'
Out in the shop, building something cool!
Here's an interesting fact... the FSM (link posted above) shows the wire coming off the bottom of the drum, similar to WARN... but mine comes off the top???
If you look at Page 27 of the FSM in the link you posted it clearly shows the cable coming off the bottom of the drum, but if you line up where the bolt holes are and the slot in the Front Base Member, a cable coming off the bottom will not line up properly with the slot. I think this is an inaccuracy (albeit minor) in the FSM. I noted in the page with instructions for winding the cable back on that it does not specify which way to wind it on. Also the three or so that I've had my hands on have all had the cable come off the top. If you look at the factory bumpers with the cutout for the fairlead it has to be off the top, otherwise the fairlead would be at the very lowest point of the bumper, since the winch is mounted very low between the frame rails.
On another note, going with a synthetic line it would probably be best to get an aluminum Hawse fairlead.
Glad you found the source of the troubles. That thing should pull hard now!
Jason
Last edited:
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
my case too ..
asutherland
VA7 HDT
- Thread starter
- #27
Not the first time I've found wrong information in the FSM!
I also got confirmation from an Australian forum that it comes off the top of the drum.
Do you recommend a particular one? Will any of them cover the hole that is in the front bumper now for the roller fairlead?
asutherland
VA7 HDT
- Thread starter
- #28
Interesting!
I've been watching this thread since you started it, not a lot of forum posts on this unit. Lots of great info in here.
In case you're interested, I also made a thread a long time ago on how to incorporate a Warn style remote plug into the Aisin winch, for those of us who didn't receive the $$$ Toyota controller with our vehicles.https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-...factory-elec-winch-aisin-warn-controller.html
asutherland
VA7 HDT
- Thread starter
- #29
Yup, I am. Another good reason to have synthetic line... so when you're bench testing the winch, the cable doesn't roll over as it unspools and make contact with the top of the solenoid pack. (+)
Tried to set my garage on fire... ha
Everything is fine, no damage to the winch (other than the metal cable which I'm replacing anyway) and no one was hurt.
The good news is the winch appears to work again!
asutherland
VA7 HDT
- Thread starter
- #30
Salvaged the connector off the old solenoid, soldered and heat-shrunk it to the new solenoid terminals.
Installed the new solenoid with new bolts, washers and lock nuts into the space beneath the battery tray. FWIW, the Cole Hersee unit fits PERFECTLY into the space and the bracket is the exact right size. Used liquid-electrical tape (find it in the marine section of hardware store) on the terminals for extra protection. Two coats. Dielectric grease into both connectors.
Installed the new solenoid with new bolts, washers and lock nuts into the space beneath the battery tray. FWIW, the Cole Hersee unit fits PERFECTLY into the space and the bracket is the exact right size. Used liquid-electrical tape (find it in the marine section of hardware store) on the terminals for extra protection. Two coats. Dielectric grease into both connectors.
asutherland
VA7 HDT
- Thread starter
- #31
Changed my mind. I can get polyurethane rollers that will replace my oem steel ones from a local 4x4 shop. This way I won't need to modify my fairlead/bumper setup. Similar to this: http://www.winchdepot.com/Winches-W...s=124&t_pt=9384&t_pl=100281&t_pn=DAYKU70054RE
asutherland
VA7 HDT
- Thread starter
- #32
Update: Tonight I am mounting my new cable and fairlead! I have my 3/8 100' of synthetic rope and a nice shiny alu hawse fairlead in hand.
WARNING: The Poly rollers (as shown above) are much thicker than the OEM Toyota steel ones, and WILL NOT FIT into the OEM Toyota fairlead. They are the correct length, and the pin fits perfectly, but they simply will not fit into the fairlead because of how thick they are. Luckily the shop took them back from me.
WARNING: The Poly rollers (as shown above) are much thicker than the OEM Toyota steel ones, and WILL NOT FIT into the OEM Toyota fairlead. They are the correct length, and the pin fits perfectly, but they simply will not fit into the fairlead because of how thick they are. Luckily the shop took them back from me.
So are you sticking with the OEM metal rollers? Any idea how much weight you're shedding going to synthetic line?
asutherland
VA7 HDT
- Thread starter
- #34
Nope, my steel rollers are badly scarred from the metal line. I got a aluminum Hawse fairlead (one with no brand stamped on the front!) that I'll use. I'd estimate I'm saving at least 30 pounds, maybe more, going with synthetic. My main reason for getting synthetic though was the safety aspect.
It would be very cool if you could weigh the steel cable and the synthetic line to compare.
These are 6,000lbs trucks. I'm not sure 30 pounds will make a big difference.
asutherland
VA7 HDT
- Thread starter
- #37
Sure, I can do that for ya! It won't be super precise on my bathroom scale... but will be somewhat close.
Akella
SILVER Star
Toyota winch cable should be around 15KG according to my catalog. Synthetic should be at least 1/2 or 1/3 of the steel cable weight.
Anyways it will be nice to see real weight # comparison.
asutherland
VA7 HDT
- Thread starter
- #39
It won't even be close to 1/3 of the weight. The stuff I bought can't weigh more than a few pounds at most.
http://www.trail-gear.ca/default.cfm?fa=products&prodcategoryid=132
asutherland
VA7 HDT
- Thread starter
- #40
There's a ton of information out there on installing one's new synthetic cable onto a winch. But none for the Aisin winch. Warns seem to tend to have a hole in the drum that the cable passes through, others have a little hoop near the bottom of the drum that you loop the cable through and then pass back along the drum.
http://www.winchline.com/documents/Viking Truck Winchline Instructions v1.2.pdf
The Aisin winch has a slotted hole in the side of the drum, that the wire cable passes through, and the hooks into a little sleeve thing welded on the outside of the drum. The end of the cable has a knob thing on it. There's also a small set screw (allen) that presses against the knob to keep it from popping upwards in the welded sleeve.
What is the best way to attach my new synthetic cable? The end of my cable has one of the electrical eye crimp in it, like this:
http://www.winchline.com/documents/Viking Truck Winchline Instructions v1.2.pdf
The Aisin winch has a slotted hole in the side of the drum, that the wire cable passes through, and the hooks into a little sleeve thing welded on the outside of the drum. The end of the cable has a knob thing on it. There's also a small set screw (allen) that presses against the knob to keep it from popping upwards in the welded sleeve.
What is the best way to attach my new synthetic cable? The end of my cable has one of the electrical eye crimp in it, like this:
