Air Bag warning lights will not reset (1 Viewer)

[flintknapper]

I had to use a wire I ran from the battery negative post over to the area I was working.... in order to get a reliable ground.

The ports are marked inside the cap of the diagnostic portal.

 

[Bloomer]

Thanks. I tried this evening but didn’t work out. Maybe give it another go next weekend. Thanks again.

 

[rolliges]

So the "B+" terminal is ground???

 

[flintknapper]

So the "B+" terminal is ground???

NO....! Just another commonly used pin port for other testing.

Always get your ground from the battery, that will be your most reliable source.

 

[rolliges]

Terminal E1 is ground but I wasn't successful using it; will try again with a direct battery connection.

 

[Outsane]

Took me about 15 min, go fast!

 

[Bloomer]

Been unsuccessful for me so far. Going to give it another try this weekend before off to dealer on Monday. Am I correct that you secure one end of the wire to the battery ground post and use the other end to jump to and insert in Tc and AB slots (quickly) in sequence noted above? Is it supposed to be that simple?

Anyone know the tech behind the scenes of this? Are the Tc / AB ports positively charged and grounding them in a sequence resets the light?

 

[Bloomer]

Tried again and no luck. At dealer now and they also were unsuccessful. Leads me to think it’s possibly the airbag computer ECU. Anyone have a part number? Would like to search for used before paying dealer price.
Thanks!

Note - they were able to clear some of the codes, but a general air bag code will not clear. Which, as I understand it, renders the airbags useless.

 

[Arizona Jeff]

Works great! Took me about 6 attempts. Once the key is "ON" you don't need to shut to "OFF" in between attempts. Just keep trying the procedure until the light goes off.

 

[flintknapper]

Works great! Took me about 6 attempts. Once the key is "ON" you don't need to shut to "OFF" in between attempts. Just keep trying the procedure until the light goes off.

Yes, took me several tries as well. Seems a certain 'cadence' was necessary....either that or I just 'nagged' it enough. But it didn't work for me right away and I had to run a lead from the battery negative post over to the diagnostic port to be sure I had a good ground point. Inserted small bits of brass wire into the port clips and left them sticking up...so I could just touch the wire to them.
It finally worked for a me at a pace faster than 1 second between jumps.