COS80
SILVER Star
Yeah I've rented pullers enough that I've also started buying them. I think the last one I got was a pitman arm puller - probably need to rent this one again.
Again: Check your Knuckle-Nuts ;-)
- Thread starter hatzlibutzli
- Start date
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Haha I got them both the same way apparently other like them two as both were brand new quality tools.
I was surprised at the quality because it was AutoZone.
I was tried of beating on my sh*t with a hammer the way my dad showed me when I was a kid and we didn’t have the money to by nice tools.
He did teach me a lot
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Castle nut is reusable so long as you don't belt it out of shape trying to pop ball joints with hammers.
Always replace the split pin
Always replace the split pin
You need to be a better aim then that
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mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Its not the aim that's the problem, it's the red mist . . .You need to be a better aim the that
My first 80, changing tie rod ends was a multi-hour, multi-trip to the parts store excercise!
Used every trick in my book at that time, broke two tierod pullers, belted piss out of them with two 4lb hammers. Want until i got a pitman arm style puller that i managed to separate them!
Never been a issue for me 
COS80
SILVER Star
Job done. 
DS took 1/3rd the time of the PS. I was annoyed that I had to remove the knuckle, but it was much easier. I had to rent a smaller puller for that side - my Pitman puller was just a smidge too big, plus I'm not exactly sure of this, but it was on so tight, I think it flashed/sparked when it finally broke free. I topped off my steering ball grease, and boy, do I have a mess on the floor to work on tomorrow.
Again, sincere thanks to all who helped me through this job.
DS took 1/3rd the time of the PS. I was annoyed that I had to remove the knuckle, but it was much easier. I had to rent a smaller puller for that side - my Pitman puller was just a smidge too big, plus I'm not exactly sure of this, but it was on so tight, I think it flashed/sparked when it finally broke free. I topped off my steering ball grease, and boy, do I have a mess on the floor to work on tomorrow.Again, sincere thanks to all who helped me through this job.
COS80
SILVER Star
Really impressed at how much different it feels now. Much more stable, and it requires much less input to keep it straight. The nuts must've been loose since I bought it.
AussieHJCruza
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A bit of heat works wonders on tie rod joints.
COS80
SILVER Star
Just wanted to add something to this that I think is important: after installation of the ARP studs, I shook it down on a dirt road, driving through all the washboards with tires at street pressure, hit some big moguls with the diff locked and the sway bar intact, and then checked torque. At least half the nuts required a retorque, which I did, and then I installed thread marker, as others have suggested in this thread. I'm happy to say that they haven't budged after pounding it on Red Cone and Radical Hill yesterday.
I use torque check on almost everything. A quick look for confirmation.
I remember someone was selling a stud that had eliminated the tapering into the threaded portions a few years ago. They came with 19mm nuts and cone washers. Used a torx socket to install the stud. Can't remember the name of the seller though.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
Landtank?
High Strength Knuckle Stud kit
This knuckle stud kit consists of 8 studs, 8 washers and 8 nuts The studs have a 9mm hex drive head and a taller shoulder that fully engages with the cone washer. The end result is a higher clamping force on the stud to prevent it from loosening. Testing of installed studs shows a 65% increase...
landtankproducts.com
Yup that's it. I've been running those for a while now no problems.
It’s an OEM thread tension design problem. Instead of sticking your hands in your pants all the time it’s best to just eliminate the problem.
I did ARP years ago at proper torque and have never had to touch them except during rebuild.
That’s me in the original video. Original front end! Nut huggers after the rebuild. 163k miles. Wheeling it hard around Phoenix AZ for 10 years but Moab did it for me.
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I warned Joey that there was a potential for failure with his nut huggers.
The thread pitch on the knuckle is 1.5 while on the nut side it’s 1.25.
So if the stud loosened just the smallest bit it would then loosen totally as the stud will back out of the knuckle at a faster rate than it would screw into the captured nut.
There is a possibility of the stud falling out even though the nut was captured.
The thread pitch on the knuckle is 1.5 while on the nut side it’s 1.25.
So if the stud loosened just the smallest bit it would then loosen totally as the stud will back out of the knuckle at a faster rate than it would screw into the captured nut.
There is a possibility of the stud falling out even though the nut was captured.
