Aftermarket FJ40 Dash Pad (1 Viewer)

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fjgoober, we just installed a SCCA compliant roll bar in my son's Miata along with the padding. Padding has to meet SFI 45.1 safety standards (standards for specialty/performance automotive and racing equipment) and that padding is VERY stiff.

The SFI group was asked about the stiffness "It is about as hard as cured salami. Way more dense that the styrofoam that is inside a SNELL helmet, and several times more dense than normal rollbar pad. Is this right?" to which they replied "Your question was a common one when the SFI Technical Committee on Roll Bar Padding first developed the Specification 45.1 for this product. However, please be assured that the roll bar padding you have purchased is appropriate protection, and it actually needs to be that hard to absorb the energy and reduce injury when a driver’s helmet impacts it."

As such, Sea Knight's preference for a harder pad also speaks to the ability of it to absorb energy during impact. I can attest via personal experience that the comfy foam padding we used on roll cages back in the 70's didn't do squat when you actually did cartwheels out into the field!
 
fjgoober, we just installed a SCCA compliant roll bar in my son's Miata along with the padding. Padding has to meet SFI 45.1 safety standards (standards for specialty/performance automotive and racing equipment) and that padding is VERY stiff.

The SFI group was asked about the stiffness "It is about as hard as cured salami. Way more dense that the styrofoam that is inside a SNELL helmet, and several times more dense than normal rollbar pad. Is this right?" to which they replied "Your question was a common one when the SFI Technical Committee on Roll Bar Padding first developed the Specification 45.1 for this product. However, please be assured that the roll bar padding you have purchased is appropriate protection, and it actually needs to be that hard to absorb the energy and reduce injury when a driver’s helmet impacts it."

As such, Sea Knight's preference for a harder pad also speaks to the ability of it to absorb energy during impact. I can attest via personal experience that the comfy foam padding we used on roll cages back in the 70's didn't do squat when you actually did cartwheels out into the field!

This requirement is based on you hitting the pad with your HELMET. I'm sure there are some 40 drivers that drive around with a helmet, but I'm sure they are the exception. :hhmm:
 
I'm sure there are some 40 drivers that drive around with a helmet, but I'm sure they are the exception.

Wait...Are you sayin' that you guys don't wear helmets when you drive your 40's? :hhmm:....:lol:
 
Wait...Are you sayin' that you guys don't wear helmets when you drive your 40's? :hhmm:....:lol:

You might want to add this under "Tech" in your epic thread. Never hurts to have a little extra protection when you're driving topless. I wouldn't put it past some of these forum members to have done it. :steer:
 
Roll Bar Pads

ROLL BAR PADS ARE DONE!:clap:

Put them on the web-site (Click link on my signature line to go directly there). Shipping is included in the price (No PO BOXES PLEASE).

CANADA GUYS: If you guys in Canada want them I am shipping them USPS but contact me with your shipping address (No PO BOXES PLEASE) prior to purchasing and I will let you know how much it will cost. I just did a shipping cost for Priority Mail to Calgary, Alberta Canada and it was approximately $25 USD more than shipping domestically.

Here's what it looks like mounted. By the way don't pay attention to the background or the ugly fj40. We had a flood in 2007 and the factory was 8' under water as you can tell by the oil/mud lines on the wall.
Leftmounted.webp
rightmounted.webp
right and front.webp
 
fjgoober, we just installed a SCCA compliant roll bar in my son's Miata along with the padding. Padding has to meet SFI 45.1 safety standards (standards for specialty/performance automotive and racing equipment) and that padding is VERY stiff.

The SFI group was asked about the stiffness "It is about as hard as cured salami. Way more dense that the styrofoam that is inside a SNELL helmet, and several times more dense than normal rollbar pad. Is this right?" to which they replied "Your question was a common one when the SFI Technical Committee on Roll Bar Padding first developed the Specification 45.1 for this product. However, please be assured that the roll bar padding you have purchased is appropriate protection, and it actually needs to be that hard to absorb the energy and reduce injury when a driver’s helmet impacts it."

As such, Sea Knight's preference for a harder pad also speaks to the ability of it to absorb energy during impact. I can attest via personal experience that the comfy foam padding we used on roll cages back in the 70's didn't do squat when you actually did cartwheels out into the field!

Um, people still race fj40s? with factory roll bars?

I've been in several roll over accidents (never in a FJ) and they were both due to loosing control on gravel road, both under 30 mph, and both times the vehicle flipped over relatively gently.

I also broad sided a dump truck in a wrangler one time, and my buddy in the back seat who didn't have his belt on smacked his head into the roll bar.:doh:

So, my basic belief is that the jeep style padding really doesn't help much in an accident, outside of that it softens the blow of you smacking your head on it (with no impact of the vehicle on anything). And most people are better drivers than me, so they won't be actually using there roll bar very much, it's something they're just banging there heads on, which is what that soft light foam padding is good for.

If they are serious about ending upside down or flipping cartwheels, they oughta maybe weld up a full cage.:steer:
 
Still waiting on the steel guys for the lower dash pads. Drove the 40 over and back, approximately 150 mile round trip. Needed to have 40 for measurement of metal inserts.

Mounting of lower dash pads. Based on everyone's input, rather than have the pins that slip into the clips on the dash like Toyota did (That would have been the easiest way) I am going to have a 10-32 bolts that will extend approx. 1/2" past the part for mounting. One can mount the pad on the dash and run a nut up on the backside of the dash.

HURRY UP AND WAIT!!!! It seems to be my life story.
 
I'll be ready to buy in about two months... the lower one piece dash pad is of great interest to me! Excited for this.
 
I lied about having the lower dash pad ready. I have been so busy with the OEM's that I haven't had a chance to work on the tooling.

HOWEVER, I thought I might offer a sale on the dashpads for Christmas if anyone's interested. I will try to get on the web-site tomorrow and discount them. I was thinking of knocking $35 off until 12/23.
 
As I am reading through the various soft top threads that have come up recently, I thought that perhaps you could make a set of soft top bows out of some type of resin that would be stiff and strong?

Possible??? If so I think it would be a huge success!!!
 
It's possible....but I think there would be an easier way to skin that cat. I have read some of the posts on the other threads that have come up recently, so I thought I would go into a little more detail here.

We also manufacture for the marine industry. I would think that extruded steel tubing galvanized or stainless would be a more economical choice. The Marine industry has been using them for years for tops on runabouts and pontoons. Hardware connectors are already sized for the various tubing diameters (You don't want to reinvent the wheel here as you will have substantial capital investment on tooling for plastics hardware connectors, hinges, fasteners, etc.) These products are usually designed and manufactured with the assumption that it is going to spend a good deal of time exposed to the environment. The othere aspect of looking in the Marine Industry is that the quality will be there. As with anything you can find junk and quality which is usually reflected in price.

I would suggest that anyone looking at building soft tops look at West Marine, Overtons, or some other marine online retailer to find the applicable hardware. If you find something that works then I would venture my research to NMMA (National Marine Manufacturer's Association) as this would be a company that manufactures in high enough volume to provide what you are looking for.

I hope this helps and will probably post this on the other thread as well.

By the way, I have thought about manufacturing the hard tops. Rather than go back with fiberglass I was considering a material that is extremely tougher with a high impact resistance. Still wondering if there is much of a market out there for them though.
 
Perhaps instead of building the tube parts, alot of people would just be interested in the B pillar part. that's the main part everyone wants. If you look at how real steel made there's, you could recreate that part in resin. I think a lot of us on these boards are creative enough to build the tube parts ourselves if needed.

Thoughts?

And thanks for the quick response!
 
Perhaps instead of building the tube parts, alot of people would just be interested in the B pillar part. that's the main part everyone wants. If you look at how real steel made there's, you could recreate that part in resin. I think a lot of us on these boards are creative enough to build the tube parts ourselves if needed.

Thoughts?

And thanks for the quick response!

Greek,

I have no experience in the soft tops other than a best top bimini top, which I am sure is NOT what everyone is talking about.
 

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