Removing “hard top” to lower windshield for dash pad removal (3 Viewers)

[VA Mountain FJ40]

I did the searches, read the threads. I have to lower the windshield on my 68 FJ40 hard top to remove and install the dash pad. Seen a couple folks report they were able to change dash pads without dropping the windshield forward over the years, but apparently none of them responded to subsequent requests about “… but HOW did you do that?”, other than “pull upward”. Yeah, that doesn’t work without elaboration… Secrets of the internets.

Dropping the windshield is a bigger deal for me because I have a hard top, and I don’t know how long it’s been since it was off, if ever. Came that way. Now, the threads say you don’t have to completely remove the “hard top”, just unbolt it most of the way back, lift enough to wedge 2x4 pieces underneath until the windshield can be lowered. OK…

OK. So I search MUD on “remove hard top”. Bunch of hits. And it’s all about building hoists, number of assistants, and discussions based on “hard top” meaning fiberglass cap, two walls with windows, and rear hatch wall. Most posts use “hard top” to mean “everything above the tub”: the whole 200+ lb assembly with the long B pillar posts, rear hatch, and all. Can’t find info for removing just the fiberglass cap secured to the top of the walls and rear hatch.

So, instructions for “remove hard top” don’t help. Too many posts use “hard top” and “top” interchangeably but talking about different items. Not the whole above-the-tub subassembly. I need help with “remove fiberglass cap while leaving walls and hatch in place”. It looks simple enough, bunch of M6 10mm bolts. Two or three bolts top of windshield, a couple on A pillar, one or two on the B pillar to remove the piece that goes over top of the front doors, and then unbolt towards the back until the front can be lifted 3” or so supported by 2x4 blocks, and the windshield can be lowered. Sounds simple enough, but this truck loves surprise “Gotcha!” episodes if I don’t research it first.

Well, removing the dash pad looked bone simple. It isnt. If I want to loosen enough of the fiberglass cap to lower the windshield, are my assumptions right? Has anyone else here just raised just the fiberglass hard top cap 3” leaving the walls alone?

Chip
VA Mtn FJ40

 

[VA Mountain FJ40]

I do believe that I have answered most of my own questions using improved search terms on MUD. “Fiberglass cap” instead of “hard top”.
I try searching before asking, but I don’t always search the right terms. Struggling to clarify the difference in the previous post gave me new search ideas to try. One worked using “fiberglass cap”. Seems to be mostly answering all my wonders.

So far working from this thread

Thread 'Fiberglass cap removal'

Jul 18, 2013

Does the rear lift window need to be removed to take the cap off my top? I have a 72 so I don't have the barn doors like most of the write up threads on this topic have. I am going to put a new headliner in and perhaps resurface outside. Gutter looks to be in good condition. Top on the outside is really sun beat and chalky feeling.

All the bolts on the sides are out and only one snapped. I feel lucky about that, cap seems to be hanging on in the back.

• flaa1a
• Replies: 49
• Forum: 40- / 55-Series Tech

If I can leave the door top pieces attached to the cap like the guy in the post did that would be useful.

 

[pb4ugo]

I responded in your other post. Here's what I mean by raising the top and using 2x4"s. The 2x4's are long enuff to reach across the tub. I removed the rear doors, and the mounts on the windshield frame. There is a set screw/bolt on the B pillar that needs to be loosened on each side too. There are posts extending down from the top into the tub at the B pillar.

. I wouldn't take the fiberglass cap off. I think that would open up a can of worms.

 

[pb4ugo]

You have a lift hatch on your top so you shouldn't have to remove the hatch. You will probably need another person to help.

 

[VA Mountain FJ40]

Here's what I mean by raising the top and using 2x4"s. The 2x4's are long enuff to reach across the tub. I removed the rear doors, and the mounts on the windshield frame. There is a set screw/bolt on the B pillar that needs to be loosened on each side too. There are posts extending down from the top into the tub at the B pillar.

View attachment 3989727

I wouldn't take the fiberglass cap off. I think that would open up a can of worms.

OK, this picture really helped.

 

[VA Mountain FJ40]

These pictures made a huge difference because I had a different, wrong idea in my head about what it would look like with the hard top raised up on a 2 x 4, and where that 2 x 4 needed to go. I actually don’t see the 2x4 in your picture, but it looks like right behind the B pillar is the place, yes?

Now it looks much easier than removing the fiberglass cap. A whole lot less fasteners to deal with. Bunch of M6 bolts, right?

Couple fasteners on windshield front… couple fasteners on each A pillar window bow bracket… that’s the front.
Couple fasteners for rear window bow bracket at B pillar. Window bow stays attached to the hard top, right? That’s each side from windshield to B pillar.
Undo tension bolt for hard top leg inside B pillar so the top can lift up …
That leaves the fasteners between the wall base and the tub from the B pillar to rear doors, both sides. That’s each side from B pillar to rear doors.
Open hatch. That’s the back.

Is this process right? Is anything else left holding the hard top assembly (cap walls and hatch) to the tub? Is it ready to be lifted up and shimmed with 2x4?

I really appreciate your tremendous help in understanding the scope and sequence of steps. BTW gorgeous rig you have there.

 

[pb4ugo]

You're pretty much on it. The bolts on the w/s inside at the door header and across the frt. The set screw at the B pillar and the bolts along the top of the tub where the top walls rests. There maybe a wire for the inside light. Originally I used 2- 2x4's. You dont want it to fall off. My 40 is a 75 so it has a rollbar which sort of dictated where the 2x4's went. You want 2x4's long enuff to reach across the top of the tub. Your top is going to be heavy in the rear because of the door. The B pillars rods are probably 10" to 12" and may need some coaxing to break loose. The PO cut mine.

 

[brian]

What different about the pads, that the windshield frame interferes with it?

 

[VA Mountain FJ40]

What different about the pads, that the windshield frame interferes with it?

The dash pad and the upper dashboard frame interlock using interlocking tabs and slots.

With the windshield up, you can’t get to the dashboard frame retaining tabs to let the old dash pad loose.
With the windshield down, the upper dashboard frame retainer tabs are accessible and I’ve read here that you can use a flat blade screwdriver to lift the tabs up enough to unlock the engagement with the L shaped retainer clip that is screwed (9 screws) into the back of the dash pad. The dash pad comes off with the retainer clip attached.

Other people wrote that they released the dash pad from the dashboard frame by removing the 9 screws that hold the long L shaped retainer clip to the dash pad to the dashboard frame. THe dash pad comes offf leaving the retainer clip still secured to the dashboard frame.

I borrowed the picture below from another thread whose OP unscrewed the nine fasteners to separate pad from frame, leaving the interlocked retainer attached to the dashboard frame. (Hence the circled “last” screw.) I added the arrows pointing to the dashboard frame retainer tabs that somehow interlock with the 9 screw L shaped dash pad retainer clip.

NOTE: I have not seen this yet in person other than attaching a new L shaped FJ40DASH. COM dash pad retainer clip to my new uninstalled FJ40DASH. COM dash pad — on my work bench. I’ve never yet folded down the windshield on my 68 truck, never seen these tabs and clips in the flesh, and I don’t completely understand how the tabs interlock with the retainer clip slots yet. I am regurgitating accumulated MUD information gathered over several days researching and trying to understand. The pic above doesn’t show specifically how the tabs go into the retainer slots.

The picture above shows the L shaped retainer clip installed on the dash pad. I marked the slots in silver sharpie. The slots are shaped like a tall thin “C” on its back, with the gap facing down and the bent closed part at top.

Is that shallow indentation enough to lock that unit down so hard just by a clip resting in the dimple? From under the dash (pulling out the loosened dash pad) I can see six slots with flat metal plates inside. Seriously, I can’t sort out how they fit together.

Anyone have pictures?