After market carb. Not my install, what's this wire for? (10 Viewers)

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caladin

Noob, but trying to learn
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Pflugerville Tx
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Brother installed new Chinese repro carb.

I fixed fuel u
Pump.

Runs on starter fluid, but bowl sill looks dry, even with electric fuel pump on(we use to prime carb)

Black wire with fuel cutoff solinoid, wrapped in white heat shield?

male spade comes out of back of carb, what is it?

PXL_20250816_234849088.webp
 
Whats the wire going to on the carb?
My guess is the cut off.
Did you knock the float free first?....needle valve is probably stuck shut.
 
Yup ran ign hot to that wire a heard the shut off solinoid click, gonna, have to pull the top and unstick the needle valve, no gas in the sight glass


Whats the best way for cars only driven occasionally to keep the needles from sticking?
 
Better carb
Didn't buy carb, brother 3 bought it for dad's ranch truck.

Brother 1 installed it, but stopped because the electric pump we use to prime is bad.

I replaced pump, added ign switched power to fuel cut off solinoid(that the bastard used black wire for)

Soaked float in carb cleaner overnight to unstick needle...

Runs for about 60 seconds and then dies.

That's when I got exhausted and stopped.... Any ideas?
 
I’ve used a couple of those carbs and each one needed a fair bit of work to run correctly. Some do run them right out of the box just fine though.
In general, I’d recommend going through the whole carb with a new Keyster kit. If you have the original carb, I’d recommend rebuilding that one.
Do you have fuel in the sight glass now? How high is it? Have you set idle and timing? Using choke?

Aside from that, need a lot more info. Was it running before? Why’d it need a carb? How old is the gas in the tank? How much gas? Condition of spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points (year?), timing, compression, valve adjustments, vacuum leaks, etc.

More pics of general engine bay area would help identify any other obvious issues.
 
On another note, from that narrow pic, it looks like smog stuff is (mostly) intact? I’m not sure that carb has the provisions to run all the smog stuff and if it’s desmogged; there’s too much stuff left for it to be done properly.
 
Run wire in your hand (fuel cut solenoid) to switched 12v source (off keyed power). From factory there will be a single wire out of the firewall that would run alongside the coolant temp sensor wire. For temporary testing, connect direct to battery and reattempt starting. Make sure bowl fills and the sight glass is half full once running. If no visible liquid line, its over or underfilling.

Report back after.
 
On another note, from that narrow pic, it looks like smog stuff is (mostly) intact? I’m not sure that carb has the provisions to run all the smog stuff and if it’s desmogged; there’s too much stuff left for it to be done properly.
/this\
 

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