Advice/tips/tricks for installing Aisin hubs (1 Viewer)

[Slapshot]

I know this is Toyota 101 for most if you, but I’ve never done this job. I’ve watched many videos and read whatever I could find.


It started when I was in Salt Lake City last week to visit some family that lives in Sandy. I had to make a pilgrimage to the Land Cruiser Heritage museum while I was in the vicinity. Which is awesome BTW. I was looking on google maps for a restaurant when I saw Cruiser Outfitters was nearby. I’ve been wanting to buy some new hubs for my truck so I figured I might as well pick them up and save on shipping. After some scrutiny from TSA I was able to bring them home.

My main question is what is required for lubrication. I’ve seen them installed basically dry to fully packed with grease. Any slick tricks for getting the cone washers out?

Thanks all!

 

[B y r o n]

Info here should help.

 

[Travis 76]

Grease the internals of the hub, but don’t pack, fill it up. Make sure when you put the hub dial on there are clips that need to line up with the wider groove in the hub body, if not the hub won’t lock.

 

[Mark W]

To remove the studs use a steel drift (Steel will transmit a sharper impact than brass). Remove the nuts and washers and set the drift against the end of the stud. Rap it sharply. Very sharply. Do not be afraid to hit it. The cone washer will pop loose after a couple/few strikes usually. Sometimes they jump halfway out the length of the stud. Sometimes they just barely move, but their "stuck" is overcome. You can spin it and pry it the rst of the way out if it just barely dislodges.

When you hit it, you are causing vibrations in the stud. This can break the friction grip of the cone washer. You are also just barely compressing the stud (itsy bitsy teeny weeny tiny amount). It immediately rebounds by the same amount. Since the cone washer can not be pushed in further when the stud compresses, it... isn't pushed in further. When the stud rebounds however, the cone washer CAN move outward... and it does.

You might have to have to hit any (or all) stud(s) a few times. You might also see the cone washers on adjacent studs come loose from a strike. If one seems stubborn just move on to the other studs and come back to it after the other cone washers are loose.

Edit: If you have the open nuts of the earlier, or later models...You can leave the nuts on the end of the studs if you do not trust yourself to keep the drift straight and centered. If you do, make sure that the nut is flush or just a tiny bit down on the end of the stud. You do not want to transmit the force of the hammer strike though the threads. If you have the mid vintage closed nuts like on the '60 and 62 models, you don't have this option.


Mark...

 

[Slapshot]

Thanks for the tips!
Now if I can just find the time to get out there and do it.

 

[Slapshot]

Got it done! I didn’t feel like going to HF to buy some tools I might never use again, so I went with what someone said is in the FSM. I took a chisel to the side of the cone washers and they popped off quite easily. After I chased a few that went flying, I put a nut on the end of the stud. I was surprised how well it worked.
If someone wants a mismatched beat up pair of hubs, make me an offer!

 

[Chungas Revenge]

What year were these from??

 

[Slapshot]

What year were these from??

Honestly I have no idea!