Adding grease to a birfield without taking it apart (1 Viewer)

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HemiAlex

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I've got one side of internals from the axle cleaned up. All the axle hardware was cleaned with saftikleen, evaporust and then ultrasonically cleaned. I spent a good amount of time on the birfield joint and I cleaned it very thoroughly. It is spotless and ready for a light coat of paint.

There may be a tiny amount of grease trapped, but nothing that worries me.

The question now is, how do I add grease effectively? I was going to take the grease gun and rotate the axle to different positions, fill it til it pukes from a spot and keep doing that until it looks full. Maybe hand pack some to be safe.

Is there a more logical way to do this?

I've also been losing sleep over finding the right grease, but I find that I do this more than I should. I'm sticking with the 5% moly Valvoline stuff that @Output Shaft uses, because I cant find the Redline CV2 in a reasonable time frame.
 
Spatula, grease gun, slow and methodical.
 
If you're not going to take the birfield joint apart, balls n all, dont use a different grease than what you were using before. Don't use that valvoline synth grease unless you can clean all traces of the old grease out with solvent.
Don't mix synthetic grease with conventional grease.

I was apprehensive about separating the birfield joint too. But I found a couple good YouTube vids and carefully followed the manual. All went well. I'm really glad I took them apart so that I could clean them out and use a better grease.
 
Along with a spatula, I used these west system epoxy syringes to inject grease deep into the birf. They seemed to work really well.
I'm pretty sure I got the idea on here
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@Output Shaft The birfield has unknown grease in it. Knuckles were not leaking at all and it all seems to be in good shape aside from wheel bearing wear.

If I pull them apart and the ring breaks, what do I replace it with?
 
Martack. Search it.

That said, I pack the whole knuckle cavity with grease. There is enough in there that if there is a bit still in the birf that's a different type it's not gonna matter.


Ever
 
If you know the history of the rig...well....
If you don't know the history then you ought to pull it apart... (check all components)
A phone call to @beno would give you a part# and a time frame for delivery.
It shouldn't take more than ½hr to do this and lots of peace of mind..
Best way to dilute all that old grease is to soak it in diesel...
 
I found a pointed grease gun adapter at AutoZone that made lubing the birfield a breeze. I was able to have it saturated in about 5 mins.
 
Just take them apart. Why do all the work except one part (arguably the most important part)? A couple of cheap clips (kind of a pain in the ass) is all you need to put the axle back on or a "martak" job. You will sleep better if you do it right.

Dyno
 
Just take them apart. Why do all the work except one part (arguably the most important part)? A couple of cheap clips (kind of a pain in the ass) is all you need to put the axle back on or a "martak" job. You will sleep better if you do it right.

Dyno

That's what I do but I hate that inner c clip.
 
I have been using the needle point grease gun method for a long time . You do not have to disassemble the birfield to grease it properly .
 
How can l grease the birfield without disassembly?
 
Me too. I've done many of the front axle rebuilds and never disassemble the birf. Just clean well and smash the grease in with your palm till it Squishies out the other side. Use good moly grease.
 

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