ABS Booster Pump - Repair or Replace? Part Sources? Rebuild in DFW, TX (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Your commutator appears like it should still be serviceable. Check each segment is securely bonded to its substrate, use a dental pick or similar to lightly pry around the ends. How worn and chipped are the brushes? springs and bearings ok? and any build up in the motor case fouling the rotor or brush pack?
 
So I bought the ebay refurb one from toycrf for $225, don't buy from this vendor, the units don't fit and are too short. Also won't respond to my messages about a refund. Thats $225 down the drain.

So now here are my options: In no rush as I have another vehicle besides the LX.

1 - $350 from Karpartsaddictions via ebay + $75 core return.
2- $275 ish shipping to Eurtron Motor repair in CA. Would have to send the motor to them + 7-10 days + another 5 days for shipping back.

How does the armature/motor look? Its not the worst looking, I still had brakes but the techstream indicated something wrong with my brakes and with a loud buzzing noise. Looks like its on its last legs though right? Had 175k miles on the 2002 LX

SIcLKxp.jpg

1XD9p1Q.jpg

bpt5nLg.jpg

Open a case with eBay and you will at least get your money back, and you can leave a warning review to alert others.
 
I've had a really good experience with Brian at Karpartsaddiction.

Through a variety of circumstances outside of his control, I've seen him demonstrate phenomenal customer service.

He gave me a partial core exchange on my abs motor that had damaged electroids; he waived his no refund policy so I could send him the good abs motor back for a full refund; when the first master cylinder he sent had a slight leak, he immediately offered to exchange it and compensate me for my time; he worked with eBay to get the return done even though I missed the ebay shipping window.

Communication and customer service were both excellent.
 
A number of reasons for loud buzzing noise, which includes alarm for low fluid. Specific codes given in techstream are starting point. To say "techstream indicated something wrong" doesn't give much to go on. The FSM gives procedure to test each code, and very specific test for pump motor on vehicle. Off vehicle test of motor, just jump with your car battery.

Bad motors will tend to just not work or work intermittently. Intermittently is difficult to test as may seem to work fine during test. But anytime motor does not run when called for by pressure drop, brakes pedal will go to the floor when pressed. You'll still have some brake at bottom of pedal stroke, but not much and most think/say no brakes. So even during intermittent motor failure you'll report a no brake condition at some point.

Your brakes working "still had brakes" make me think your motor was working ok.

Also bad motor or one working intermittently will often have a visible dead spot on commutator (black on one or two section next to each other of commutator), your picture doesn't show a dead spot. But doesn't show 360 deg of commutator either. If you search YouTube you'll find many videos on testing amature. You'll also see how they turn commutator on a lathe the to true up.

Hard to see your brushes, but they look thick. I'll bet they're ok!

A "loud noise" could be a bad motor bearing(s). But you'd know it by just spinning it/them. Too be that loud "loud buzzing noise" would indicate bearing seizing up. I'd expect to see some blueing from heat on bearing(s), which I don't!


So I bought the ebay refurb one from toycrf for $225, don't buy from this vendor, the units don't fit and are too short. Also won't respond to my messages about a refund. Thats $225 down the drain.

So now here are my options: In no rush as I have another vehicle besides the LX.

1 - $350 from Karpartsaddictions via ebay + $75 core return.
2- $275 ish shipping to Eurtron Motor repair in CA. Would have to send the motor to them + 7-10 days + another 5 days for shipping back.

How does the armature/motor look? Its not the worst looking, I still had brakes but the techstream indicated something wrong with my brakes and with a loud buzzing noise. Looks like its on its last legs though right? Had 175k miles on the 2002 LX

SIcLKxp.jpg

1XD9p1Q.jpg

bpt5nLg.jpg
 
Techstream gave me C1252 and C1256. Brake Fluid was definitely up to high in the resivoir.

I've had the abs / brake dash lights and buzzing on cold mornings that went away after couple minutes of driving. Every 2-3 pumps of the brake pedal, I get a loud mechanical noise from the master cylinder
 
Hey guys. This is an awesome thread. Thanks for so much help!

Did anyone find a way to unscrew the accumulator without the tool mentioned in the Toyota FSM? I want to try replacing the spring and so on in there when i get the motor refurbished.

Thanks!
 
Vibrating feeling through brake pedal while pump is running?

At 210k mi my wife's 99 finally had the triple threat; BRAKE ABS and buzzer warnings. Just finished the install of my rebuilt booster by Eurton Electric and threw in a new MC piston as a "while you're in there" pm.

Now after bleeding brakes and engaging ABs on dirt road everything seems fine.

However now while the pump is running you can feel ila vibration in the brake pedal. Never felt this before.

Any ideas?
 
i just did this job on my 04. did the accumulator and motor first, then the master gave way a couple month later. I now replaced the master and everything is perfect. My advice to anyone doing this is to do both accumulator, motor and master as a whole unit.
my 2c
 
i just did this job on my 04. did the accumulator and motor first, then the master gave way a couple month later. I now replaced the master and everything is perfect. My advice to anyone doing this is to do both accumulator, motor and master as a whole unit.
my 2c
When you say your master gave way, what happened?
 
Anyone have luck with part numbers for the silencer tube and spring under the accumulator? I found what I think is the o ring part number ( 9030124010 ) but can't come up with the others. I was able to get my accumulator off with a oil filter wrench however torque to spec is going to be a challenge with that method.
 
Anyone have luck with part numbers for the silencer tube and spring under the accumulator? I found what I think is the o ring part number ( 9030124010 ) but can't come up with the others. I was able to get my accumulator off with a oil filter wrench however torque to spec is going to be a challenge with that method.
partsouq.com show them. Just punch in your VIN #
 
Can anyone please verify if there are any other models of the pump motor other than the LX that will also work with a 98 LC? Any info would be greatly appreciated!!
 
Can anyone please verify if there are any other models of the pump motor other than the LX that will also work with a 98 LC? Any info would be greatly appreciated!!

Here’s the company I bought mine from.

 
I bought a rebuilt pump motor, but it turned out to be something in the internals of the entire unit. I ended up paying $2500 for an entire new assembly (master, pump, accumulator, everything) before selling my rig, because I didn't want the new owner to be screwed over like I was. The previous owner put a used but low mileage pump in there (didn't mention anything about this to me until I started having problems and asked about it).

Therefore, I have a rebuilt pump motor available along with the low mileage pump motor with the entire original assembly including the accumulator, etc, if anyone needs one. I paid $350 for the rebuilt one and would let it go for $200 plus the ride, and the entire assembly with the low mileage pump motor for $100.
 
I bought a rebuilt pump motor, but it turned out to be something in the internals of the entire unit. I ended up paying $2500 for an entire new assembly (master, pump, accumulator, everything) before selling my rig, because I didn't want the new owner to be screwed over like I was. The previous owner put a used but low mileage pump in there (didn't mention anything about this to me until I started having problems and asked about it).

Therefore, I have a rebuilt pump motor available along with the low mileage pump motor with the entire original assembly including the accumulator, etc, if anyone needs one. I paid $350 for the rebuilt one and would let it go for $200 plus the ride, and the entire assembly with the low mileage pump motor for $100.

Sale pending on all these parts

These parts have sold.
 
Last edited:
Is it worth it to rebuild the master when you’re changing out the booster and accumulator? How much labor should it add if sending it out to a shop. In Austin, TX.
 
Two days ago the ABS pump motor failed on my 2001 LX. Took a while to get the motor out without removing the pump, accumulator, reservoir assembly. I had to remove one of the screws from the bracket holding the back of the motor and rotate the bracket on the remaining screw. I used a very small screw clamp on the bracket to give something to grab onto with some pliers to get leverage.

It looks like this pump has had a hard life. Lot's of stop on go driving with only 182k miles. The brushes are almost completely worn down and several of the the commutator laminate pads have failed to stay attached.

Looks like I will be ordering a new pump today.

IMG_20190511_160604.jpg
IMG_20190511_160617.jpg
IMG_20190511_160626.jpg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom