My booster isn't new its a junkyard part. No lights going on 9 months but can hear and feel it in the pedal from time to time.
ABS Booster Pump - Repair or Replace? Part Sources? Rebuild in DFW, TX (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Bryanl
- Start date
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Got some great info from the thread. I ended up purchasing a rebuilt unit from Andy Le after hearing some good reviews.
Ive got a 98 model. Recently replaced the unit. Bled the brakes. Everything worked well for a day. Then i lost 95% of braking power. Fluid returned to the reservoir. The pedal goes all the way to the floor.
During the bleeding process i didnt not activate abs and re-bleed. Could this be the reason for my issue?
Ive got a 98 model. Recently replaced the unit. Bled the brakes. Everything worked well for a day. Then i lost 95% of braking power. Fluid returned to the reservoir. The pedal goes all the way to the floor.
During the bleeding process i didnt not activate abs and re-bleed. Could this be the reason for my issue?
Seconded.
Andy Le is a top notch guy. I just replaced my MC due to a bad ABS Actuator with one of his units, and he was exemplary in every way. Great communication, very fair pricing, top quality work,, very timely, professional, and courteous. Highly recommend 10/10.
Andy Le contact info?
Part numbers for the full replacement? I have a 2003 LX470
Andy's phone number is 916-668-9638. I would advise shooting him a text.
Have a great weekend!
First off, thanks to everyone for all the information on this thread. I managed to get the complete assembly out and (aside from being really durty and corroded) it looks like half the brass colored contact pads on the commutator have completely fallen off.
Question: How are some of you removing the actual motor from the part of the housing that holds the brushes (so that you could potentially have someone replace the commutator pads)? Can't seem to figure out an obvious way to remove it. Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks!
Edit: Has anyone successfully installed this unit from Wholesale Express? 1998 – 2002 Land Cruiser / LX470 New Abs Pump Master Cylinder Repair Electric Motor – Wholesale Parts Express - https://www.wholesalepartsexpress.com/product/new-4runner-land-cruiser-abs-pump-master-cylinder-repair-electric-motor-2000-2002/ At the moment there's a two week turnaround from Eurtron and that's a stretch for me.
Question: How are some of you removing the actual motor from the part of the housing that holds the brushes (so that you could potentially have someone replace the commutator pads)? Can't seem to figure out an obvious way to remove it. Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks!
Edit: Has anyone successfully installed this unit from Wholesale Express? 1998 – 2002 Land Cruiser / LX470 New Abs Pump Master Cylinder Repair Electric Motor – Wholesale Parts Express - https://www.wholesalepartsexpress.com/product/new-4runner-land-cruiser-abs-pump-master-cylinder-repair-electric-motor-2000-2002/ At the moment there's a two week turnaround from Eurtron and that's a stretch for me.
I purchased the pump you asked about from Wholesale Express and it was a very pleasant experience. My mechanic spoke to them on the phone, I went online and ordered the pump, and had it in no time. Mt Cruiser was "honking" like a goose. It did that for a period of weeks and then the ABS and Brake warning light and buzzer went off. It went back off and I was able to drive it fine to the shop. Based on codes and symptoms, my mechanic believed it was the pump motor. It's only been a little over about 2 weeks but so far since the repair, so good. Everything seems back to normal.
Update: I ended up ordering a new Toyota pump/motor assembly from Foothills Toyota (20% off list price). I put it in and when I started the car the pump just cycled on and off for about 2-3 seconds at a time and the buzzing/dash lights remained. That happened right as my wife told me our friends were coming over in 5 mins f@$!
I was pretty frustrated. The next day I pumped the brakes about 40 times, turned on the key and the pump cycling continued. However. I let it do it’s thing and watched as it ultimately drained down the reservoir and filled the accumulator. I then pumped the brakes again to drain the accumulator, turned on the key again and low and behold this time the pump ran continuously and the warning lights/buzzing were gone!
Right about now I was balancing going from complete frustration to elation, so I repeated the process once more and timed the pump. Took 28 seconds and seemed to be working fine.
I still need to bleed the brakes, so I am will remain cautiously optimistic for now. If that goes well, I will activate ABS and bleed again. May take it to the local Independent Toyota guy and have him run the Techstream as well if any doubts still remain.
Moral of the story… The pump didn’t instantly come on and run for 30 seconds, so don’t get discouraged if you still get lights/buzzing upon replacement as you may just have to mess with it a couple times.
Thanks to all (skidoo, 2001LC, etc..) for their in depth write ups as I never would have attempted this without this forum!
I was pretty frustrated. The next day I pumped the brakes about 40 times, turned on the key and the pump cycling continued. However. I let it do it’s thing and watched as it ultimately drained down the reservoir and filled the accumulator. I then pumped the brakes again to drain the accumulator, turned on the key again and low and behold this time the pump ran continuously and the warning lights/buzzing were gone!
Right about now I was balancing going from complete frustration to elation, so I repeated the process once more and timed the pump. Took 28 seconds and seemed to be working fine.
I still need to bleed the brakes, so I am will remain cautiously optimistic for now. If that goes well, I will activate ABS and bleed again. May take it to the local Independent Toyota guy and have him run the Techstream as well if any doubts still remain.
Moral of the story… The pump didn’t instantly come on and run for 30 seconds, so don’t get discouraged if you still get lights/buzzing upon replacement as you may just have to mess with it a couple times.
Thanks to all (skidoo, 2001LC, etc..) for their in depth write ups as I never would have attempted this without this forum!
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Does anyone have a spare motor housing with good magnets? I have a rebuilt motor, but when I disassembled it one of the magnets is cracked - dead in the driveway, any suggestions are welcome!
Maybe try this:
You may get lucky and find a wreck near you. I know some guys were parting 100s in the classified. I got a window from a guy.
You may get lucky and find a wreck near you. I know some guys were parting 100s in the classified. I got a window from a guy.
Posted this question in a separate thread...
2003 LC 100 w/245k miles. We have been having the ABS light/ Brake light/ alarm condition intermittently which causes the undrivable 'no brakes' condition. Being intermittent and not being able to replicate the condition has been very frustrating. Before I replace the MC or brakebooster etc could the wheel sensors be causing this 'zero brakes' condition? I was thinking the wheel sensors would only throw the ABS light and not the full blown undrivable no brakes condition. I didn't want to replace the big ticket items then find out in the end was just a bad wheel sensor...
I have been reading the various threads on ABS booster pump repair & replace and the MC rebuild DIY thread but from what I see the zero brake condition is either the MC or booster/accumulator.
Thanks in advance for any replies...
2003 LC 100 w/245k miles. We have been having the ABS light/ Brake light/ alarm condition intermittently which causes the undrivable 'no brakes' condition. Being intermittent and not being able to replicate the condition has been very frustrating. Before I replace the MC or brakebooster etc could the wheel sensors be causing this 'zero brakes' condition? I was thinking the wheel sensors would only throw the ABS light and not the full blown undrivable no brakes condition. I didn't want to replace the big ticket items then find out in the end was just a bad wheel sensor...
I have been reading the various threads on ABS booster pump repair & replace and the MC rebuild DIY thread but from what I see the zero brake condition is either the MC or booster/accumulator.
Thanks in advance for any replies...
When you say zero brakes, does the pedals goes to the floor? If not, does standing on the brake pedal with all of your weight still makes the brakes work, just with a lot less stopping power?
Usually when the MC goes bad, the pedal gets soft or sinks to the floor. And when the booster motor goes bad, you hear a buzzing sound and the brakes work only slightly when push them really really hard.
Here's what I suggest you do:
1 - Check brake oil. It might just be low or there might be leak in the system somewhere (think about rusty lines)
2 - Check each wheel to see if the brake fluid is leaking from a caliper or a soft line
3 - Test booster function:
- Turn off your engine, take the key out and press the brake pedals repeatedly for about 40 times (yes forty 40!!) or until you feel the brake pedal starts going soft.
- Now, open the hood and turn the key to ignition position (you don't have to start the engine) and listen for a whirring sound (of a motor running). Count how many seconds the motor runs before stopping
- if it runs close to 40 seconds than your booster motor is fine.
- if it doesn't run at all or run much longer that 40 seconds then you have a bad booster
Thanks for the reply...
Yes we have been getting the alarm (buzzing), 'brake' light, and 'abs' light BUT intermittently...
First time this occurred was in early December with the 'brakes work slightly when pushed really hard' so we parked the 100. When we checked again a couple weeks later there was no warning lights or buzzing alarm and we had normal brakes so we drove carefully to a local dealer but he could not replicate. When we got the 100 back from the dealer later that day the 3 conditions happened again (buzzing alarm, 'brake' light, 'abs' light) with the 'brakes work slightly when pushed really hard'. My son limped home and while he was limping home the situation corrected itself (warning lights off, no alarm, brakes again normal). It is now parked again while we figure a way forward.
I will double check with my son about your 'pedal to the floor' question as he was driving daily but when I was in the 100 a few weeks ago your 'second condition' was what I noticed 'standing on the brake pedal with all of your weight still makes the brakes work, just with a lot less stopping power'.
We will try your 1.2.3 test and report back...thanks again. Bill
With what you have described and with the miles you have, I am almost certain that it's your booster motor. Best of luck.
Thanks...appreciate the info.
Yes...maybe I am a bit all over the place...my apologies.
Have been reading thru both threads and both have really good knowledge so figured maybe easier to get an answer...
Have updated my question thread to direct to this thread and the thread you reference...
If you end up needing the whole motor, I got mine from wholesalepartsexpress.com in south Florida. It was around $450.
