Don’t order the pump. There’s a different part number 47070-60010 that includes the whole assembly and ends up being about 1000 less.
ABS Booster Pump - Repair or Replace? Part Sources? Rebuild in DFW, TX (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Bryanl
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Oh, I misspoke, I meant to say motor. Thanks for the part number!
2001LC
SILVER Star
I' very curous in the condition of the control wire?
It's the two wires harness connected between bottom of ABS black plastic unit to the pumps motor. The wire that the FSM states is no reusable?
Seems like the wire harness is in pretty good shape judging from the end that was connected to the motor. I have no idea what the other end looks like.
What are peoples opinions on the refurb motors? Does anyone know what goes into a refurb, is it simply replacing the brushes and cleaning it up, or is more work done to extend the life of the commutator and the windings? Can a commutator be repaired if some of the laminate is ripped off?
I am looking at two different parts on ebay. One refurb for $225 and one new for $450. I'm guessing the new one is parted out from the complete assembly.
I am looking at two different parts on ebay. One refurb for $225 and one new for $450. I'm guessing the new one is parted out from the complete assembly.
98-07 LEXUS LX470 Toyota LAND CRUISER ABS ANTI-LOCK PUMP Motor/actuator Rebuilt | eBay
For sale is a Rebuilt/remanufactured master cylinder brake booster electric pump motor. This pump motor is used, but recently taken apart and rebuilt. The pump motor works like new! This will fit 1998-2007 lexus lx470 and Toyota landcruisers.
www.ebay.com
for 1998 - 2002 Land Cruiser LX470 New Abs Master Cylinder Repair Electric Motor | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for for 1998 - 2002 Land Cruiser LX470 New Abs Master Cylinder Repair Electric Motor at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
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2001LC
SILVER Star
My understanding, Nope! Commutator is not restored reasonably. You can open it up and look commutator.
2001LC
SILVER Star
The other end of wire is easy to see. It's at bottom of ABS unit (Black box on the side of Master). Peel back boot at bottom, expose wires and fasteners. Can be seen form the front of radiator looking at brake bottom of master under ABS unit. Or with a mirror looking down from above the ABS unit standing at fender..
just wanted to include some pictures of mine , 2000 LC with 150k Miles. The terminal screws looked fine, no corrosion at all, but when I went to unscrew them they stripped, ended up having to drill them out. Any one know if there is a way to tell if this is the original part?
Looks OG to me. Also looks like the failure mode might be the same as mine. The brushes look near end of life, with the commutators delaminating.
2001LC
SILVER Star
How did it get so wet?
When commutator worm out, I don't think you can rebuild.
2001LC
SILVER Star
If not loosing fluid, possible during removal & disassemble!
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New LX470 owner here, having this same issue. Can anyone tell me their opinion on this part, seems like a great deal. 1998 to 2000 Lexus LX470 Electric Master Cylinder
This part doesn't have the accumulator or the booster motor.
If you ABS is not giving you trouble (the black flat box full of electronics then just buy these two parts:
04493-60330: Cylinder Kit, Brake Master - $56
47070-60010: Pump Assy, Brake Booster W/Accumulator - $810
Thank you, ended up just buying the genuine Toyota parts, it's my ABS that is throwing the codes.
See photos from a 2004 with ~152k miles. Both shops in town wanted strongly to replace the entire master cylinder/booster/accumulator/ABS computer assembly, the part alone almost $2400. Thanks to the info from this tread on ih8mud and others, just had the booster/accumulator 47070-60010 replaced and now no problems at all. Thanks to all on this thread, saved me around $1500. Very serious corrosion at the electrical connections, and the electric motor was very loose and sloppy inside, with major metal residue from grinding. Very glad got it done before it was too late; the shop mechanics were shocked at the corrosion and metal dust inside.
2003 Toyota Land Cruiser w 112K miles. Recently got the dreaded warning signal with ABS lights on. OBD codes C1223 (Fault in ABS Control System), C1241 (Too Low or Too High Battery Volts) and C1251 (Pump Motor Seized/Open Circuit Pump Ground). Brakes still worked fine, but ordered the complete pump motor/pump/accumulator assembly from ToyotaPartsDeal.com for $888 all in.
www.toyotapartsdeal.com
Local mechanic installed for $350. Everything seems to be fine now.
QUESTION for the group though- the pump seems noisier than I recall AND it runs about every couple of minutes for a few seconds, after some stop and go.
IS this normal??
47070-60010 Genuine Toyota Pump Assy, Brake Booster W/Accumulator
ToyotaPartsDeal.com offers the great deal for genuine Toyota parts 47070-60010 (4707060010) Pump Assy, Brake Booster W/Accumulator for $793.93. All parts are backed by the Toyota's warranty.
www.toyotapartsdeal.com
Local mechanic installed for $350. Everything seems to be fine now.
QUESTION for the group though- the pump seems noisier than I recall AND it runs about every couple of minutes for a few seconds, after some stop and go.
IS this normal??
2001LC
SILVER Star
No!.
I new booster assembly is very quiet. It should not come on every few minutes. It will come on occasionally without using brakes, just by leaving IG key on. This is due to pressure sensor sensing a drop in pressure or a fault.
I suppose a 100 series, day one out of the factory may only come on when brake used. IDK, never had one.
I new booster assembly is very quiet. It should not come on every few minutes. It will come on occasionally without using brakes, just by leaving IG key on. This is due to pressure sensor sensing a drop in pressure or a fault.
I suppose a 100 series, day one out of the factory may only come on when brake used. IDK, never had one.
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Mine comes on after some stop and go and sometimes it is more noticeable than others... I can go weeks without even noticing its operation ... I don't think it ever comes on while just cruising... Sometimes I can even feel it through the brake pedal as a slight vibration at a stop. Mine is much quieter since replacing the entire assembly with a used unit due to light/chime/codes which did not relent despite new pump/motor/accumulator. Maybe the noise is because it is vibrating against the metal ring surrounding the accumulator???
2001LC
SILVER Star
It will make a noise if the accumulator is not center properly in metal ring with rubber bumpers.. But you'd not get dash lights or codes from this.
If you're still getting dash lights, I suggest you open the hood, before turning key on in the morning cold before starting. Then turn IG key to ON (do not start) and time how long booster motor of pump runs. Then take IG key out (off) pump brake pedal 40 times (topping procedure stated on reservoir). Then insert IG key and turn to ON. Again time how long booster motor runs from start until motor stops running. More than 40 seconds you've got and issue. Do this on very cold mornings before using brakes or starting, and do it on warm days before and after use.
If motor runs to long, you may have a DTC C1252 stored in tech stream. IIRC it take 5 min of run time to set off the C1252.
You should not feel vibration from booster assembly in the pedal. The new OEM booster assembly is so quiet and smooth. I must put my hand on if engine running, just to tell if motor running or not.
If you're still getting dash lights, I suggest you open the hood, before turning key on in the morning cold before starting. Then turn IG key to ON (do not start) and time how long booster motor of pump runs. Then take IG key out (off) pump brake pedal 40 times (topping procedure stated on reservoir). Then insert IG key and turn to ON. Again time how long booster motor runs from start until motor stops running. More than 40 seconds you've got and issue. Do this on very cold mornings before using brakes or starting, and do it on warm days before and after use.
If motor runs to long, you may have a DTC C1252 stored in tech stream. IIRC it take 5 min of run time to set off the C1252.
You should not feel vibration from booster assembly in the pedal. The new OEM booster assembly is so quiet and smooth. I must put my hand on if engine running, just to tell if motor running or not.
