ABS Booster Pump - Repair or Replace? Part Sources? Rebuild in DFW, TX (1 Viewer)

Joined
Jan 21, 2008
Messages
99
Appears the abs booster pump -the electric motor- went out today at 294k. I'm about to remove the master cylinder assembly to remove the motor and will DIY the master. Question is are there reliable sources that stock new, rebuilt, or will rebuild my motor? I'm aware I can go to the dealer and buy new for over a grand but thought I would check. From searching here people have used Eurton-they don't stock any and rebuild the motor for $245. Toyota, Lexus 47070-60010, ABS Motor Repair | Motor Repair & Rewinds | Eurton Electric

Then there is Auto Electric Rebuilders in CA who has rebuilt them and I will call tomorrow.

Googling and ebay found a source that says they have a rebuilt with a new motor.
NEW ABS MOTOR FOR 1999-2007 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER AND LEXUS LX470 | eBay
https://www.wholesalepartsexpress.c...ter-cylinder-repair-electric-motor-2000-2002/
Locally an entire MC/pump/accumulator assembly is $850 used.

Just looking to see if anyone has had success with another route that I could follow and report back as being successful.
 

DirtDawg

"It'd be alot cooler if you did"
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Jun 28, 2013
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Denver, Colorado
IIRC the brake pump is the same across the 4th gen T4Rs and a few other vehicles. I would bet that you could find one cheaper through those means than specifically looking for a used LC/LX pump.
 
Joined
Jan 21, 2008
Messages
99
Yes, the whole master cylinder with accumulator and pump is probably $3k retail and $2,250 or so from wholesale dealers.

gil12-Would you mind elaborating on the accumulator replacement? I see it as just a canister holding pressure that doesn't really do much and doesn't seem to fail? But I could be wrong.

FYI-mine was pretty easy to diagnose. ABS lights and buzzing came on. Checked under hood and pump (motor) wasn't working but would kick on for a few seconds upon tapping. Also had a pump code I found in techstream.
Removed the master cylinder (very easy) and checked the pump (motor). Pretty obvious when I took the cover off the motor and saw the debris inside.
For my other LX I may consider removing the master next time I flush the brake fluid. Inspect the motor and remove the reservoir to clean it more thoroughly.
I went with the rebuilt motor from ebay and it should be here today or tomorrow to put it all back together.
 
Joined
Oct 13, 2013
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Bryan, TX
Awesome! Hopefully this solution works out. We are only going to see more and more of these threads and our cruisers continue to age. The fact that the same assembly is used in several Toyota models means that we should start getting some more options in fixing the problems.
 
Joined
Jan 21, 2008
Messages
99
Update: Rebuilt the master cylinder with a new piston assembly-many thanks to Skidoo for his writeup here. Master Cylinder Rebuild - DIY
Installed the rebuilt motor from Ebay. Bleed brakes by key off pump and hold on the fronts to get the master bleed. Key on foot on pedal for rears. Used Techstream to command the abs for the fronts and followed the prompts-after a little yelling at my wife we had a system down as I did each side several times and checked the rears as well. Brakes feel great, no lights, no codes after several days of driving. Under $400 in parts/fluid.

Yes-I believe there will be many more instances of this in the future. There was zero rust or corrosion on any of the wiring for the motor. But taking the motor cover off the electric motor it didn't just go out overnight. As easy as the master cylinder assembly is to remove/replace I would suggest when doing a brake flush that you pull the master to check the motor condition. Especially if you are over 250k miles.

This really isn't a hard job to do following the DIY guide. The hardest and longest part is bleeding the brakes. Master comes out in 15 minutes, 10 minutes to replace the piston, and say 30 minutes to install the master.

If anything changes then I will update the thread.
 
Joined
Oct 23, 2016
Messages
69
Location
Cincinnati
Thanks for this thread... I just had my ABS/Brake light come on, heard the evil buzzing sound, and the pedal went to the floor. This all happened in Wheeling, WV while driving from Cincinnati to just west of D.C.

The two "OH CRAP" MOMENTS I had were when the pedal went to the floor, and when I looked up the cost of a replacement pump assembly. Ebay, here I come!!!
 
Joined
Dec 11, 2016
Messages
55
Location
Magnolia Texas
Appears the abs booster pump -the electric motor- went out today at 294k. I'm about to remove the master cylinder assembly to remove the motor and will DIY the master. Question is are there reliable sources that stock new, rebuilt, or will rebuild my motor? I'm aware I can go to the dealer and buy new for over a grand but thought I would check. From searching here people have used Eurton-they don't stock any and rebuild the motor for $245. Toyota, Lexus 47070-60010, ABS Motor Repair | Motor Repair & Rewinds | Eurton Electric

Then there is Auto Electric Rebuilders in CA who has rebuilt them and I will call tomorrow.

Googling and ebay found a source that says they have a rebuilt with a new motor.
NEW ABS MOTOR FOR 1999-2007 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER AND LEXUS LX470 | eBay
https://www.wholesalepartsexpress.c...ter-cylinder-repair-electric-motor-2000-2002/
Locally an entire MC/pump/accumulator assembly is $850 used.

Just looking to see if anyone has had success with another route that I could follow and report back as being successful.
Thanks for posting this, I'm in the the Houston area and my 00 LC has 215k miles. No abs light but I do have that loud grinding/buzzing sound that I assume is the booster pump. Any one have any ideas if this is the same problem in the early stages of going out?
 
Joined
Dec 11, 2016
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Location
Magnolia Texas

470SNC

03 GX470
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Jul 27, 2014
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494
Location
Buena Park, CA.
I just replaced the pump and shes good as new, the mechanic was able to replace the brake booster pump without pulling the master cylinder.
 
Joined
May 15, 2016
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986
Location
Colorado Springs
I just replaced the pump and shes good as new, the mechanic was able to replace the brake booster pump without pulling the master cylinder.
Whoa really? I thought you had to pull the MC. I imagine that if anyone has to do either, it wouldn’t be a bad idea to replace old brake lines/ rebuild calipers at the same time?
 
Joined
Feb 27, 2017
Messages
46
Location
Boise, ID
I just started noticing my pump making loud squeak/squeal upon starting the engine, especially when cold outside. Brakes are also VERY spongy and weak. A bleed did help a little bit but gains from that are gone and the soft brakes are back. Any suggestions? Should I be prepping $$ for a master replacement?
 
Joined
Jan 21, 2008
Messages
99
Prep for a booster pump replacement.

Yes, I rebuild my master when I did the job. Impressive getting the booster out without taking the master. However removing the master was the easiest part and only took 10 minutes. Gave me the opportunity to rebuild the master (easy) and do a brake fluid flush at the same time.

I'll probably take the master off our other LX this winter to inspect the booster and flush the fluid since it's on my list to PM this year.

FYI-the booster is working great and truck is about to turn 300k.
 
Joined
Oct 23, 2016
Messages
69
Location
Cincinnati
Just replaced my pump motor over the weekend. Found a wrecked 2000 LX and swapped in it's old (but functional) motor to get my LX back on the road. I am sending my non- functional motor out to that company in CA to get rebuilt. When it comes back, I am going to yank my master cylinder yet again and replace the used unit with the freshly rebuilt one.

Also, the motor harness connector on the bottom of the ABS module was REALLY corroded. I installed new screws and nuts, but it was a real PITA...

Pics:

20171003_184148.jpg


20171003_184234.jpg


20171013_200106.jpg
 
Joined
May 15, 2016
Messages
986
Location
Colorado Springs
To be cl
Just replaced my pump motor over the weekend. Found a wrecked 2000 LX and swapped in it's old (but functional) motor to get my LX back on the road. I am sending my non- functional motor out to that company in CA to get rebuilt. When it comes back, I am going to yank my master cylinder yet again and replace the used unit with the freshly rebuilt one.

Also, the motor harness connector on the bottom of the ABS module was REALLY corroded. I installed new screws and nuts, but it was a real PITA...

Pics:

View attachment 1556057

View attachment 1556058

View attachment 1556059
To be clear, the motor is below the booster? Does the booster just thread onto the motor?
 
Joined
Oct 23, 2016
Messages
69
Location
Cincinnati
Both the booster and motor are underneath the master cylinder. When you pull the master cylinder, the booster, motor, and accumulator all come out with the master cylinder as one assembly.

20171003_182430.jpg
 
Joined
Apr 26, 2014
Messages
883
Location
New Orleans, LA
Fyi, you can remove the motor without removing anything else. My hands and arms are pretty large so theres no excuses. Be sure to have one of those handy mirror on a swivel/extension for the rear bolt or you can do it by feel.

Since its getting cooler now, my motor is squealing also. I removed it and inspected it. Seems like the bearings were almost seized up. The commutator has roughly 75% life left by looking at the shoulder. The brush still looks thick. I'll attempt to find/replace just the bearings in the next couple weeks and report back. Good thing my 80 isn't sold yet.
 

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