Builds A 1994 80 Series gets an LQ9 GM V8 (3 Viewers)

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Mounting the cooling fan relays to the fan shroud:
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Is that where you are going to mount the PCM?
 
The little in-dash speaker that goes here:
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-doesn't do much for the sound system overall.

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However, it makes a great spot to tuck the Dakota Digital tachometer signal converter out of the way:
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i like that trick. i mounted mine to the top of the hvac box behind the glove box with some 2 sided tape.

one other thing i just remembered, the cylinder count signal in the PCM should be set to 4, and then set the dakota box to 3 (6 cylinder mode). I also had to use the high output side to get the tach to respond. i fooled around a little trying to get the tach to work with a pull up circuit and setting the cylinder count to 3 but i never could get it to make the tach work. the dakota box ultimately did the trick. the signal can be fed to the tach through the negative coil wire terminal that connects to the toyota coil under the brake booster.
 
Thats what I did on mine just tapped into the pcm plug on the passanger side. Tomorrow I will see which exact wire I used.
 
nice work
 
I just noticed that the corvette valve covers are gone and now they are Goat covers...... is the master plan being revealed yet?
 
How close did the stock ac compressor come to the frame rail? The car ac compressor seems to be larger than the truck compressor.
 
I just noticed that the corvette valve covers are gone and now they are Goat covers...... is the master plan being revealed yet?

The original plan was to make an overlay where the "GTO" is and put a "Toyota LandCruiser" emblem on it, but that has been done. So.... not real sure what the plan is. However it ends up, it won't say "GTO".

How close did the stock ac compressor come to the frame rail? The car ac compressor seems to be larger than the truck compressor.

This compressor is not too close to the frame, but the discharge port is pointed right above it. I was limited on fittings to keep from notching the frame. This compressor is hard to compare to stock because it's a generic Sanden with custom brackets from Turn Key. Its good to know about the differences in size that you mentioned though!
 
This post is not part of the typical swap, but this customer has A LOT of electrical accessories. With so many things shifting around in the engine bay, the bank of relays powering the bumper lights, roof rack lights, camp/reverse light, fuel transfer pump(dual tanks) & trailer charging circuit(he can charge the massive batteries in his Adventure Trailer while driving) needed to be relocated to maintain a clean look.

It starts with a simple bracket:
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curious - is this a DBW or DBC motor? I ditched my cruise control motor because my motor was DBW, but I always wondered if the the toyota cruise motor would operate a DBC vortec motor. It should considering it's a stand alone unit and IIRC it gets it's speed signal from the t-case VSS and not the transmission VSS. Of course I could be way off base on this.

Love the work - i have to stop reading this because now I want to go back and make a few changes on mine - mainly with the way the PCM is mounted.
 
curious - is this a DBW or DBC motor? I ditched my cruise control motor because my motor was DBW, but I always wondered if the the toyota cruise motor would operate a DBC vortec motor. It should considering it's a stand alone unit and IIRC it gets it's speed signal from the t-case VSS and not the transmission VSS. Of course I could be way off base on this.

Love the work - i have to stop reading this because now I want to go back and make a few changes on mine - mainly with the way the PCM is mounted.

It's got a throttle cable. The stock 80 cruiser control does run off of the VSS on the transfercase, but it also gets some input from the stock 80 ECU(which is gone obviously). There could be some extra work involved in getting the cruise control to behave itself, but we'll know for sure in a few days.
 
cool. it looks like the CC ECU needs an O/D and ECT signal from the TCU which should not be to hard to get around. The problem area appears to be the IDL connection from the ECU. It has a link to the 1FZ TPS and from the looks of it, the signal has continuity when the TPS shows idle speed voltage and then disconnects when the TPS voltage increases.

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Here's some more wiring cleanup. We've utilized some new, aftermarket connections so that everything looks super clean and the end result will look factory.
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New, aftermarket connector:
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