Builds A 13 Year Old and His Future '76 FJ40

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Thanks again for the input and advise everyone. So we drained all the tranny and transfer case fluid (removed the filler plugs first, thanks for that tip). So there certainly was plenty of fluid in there (around 7-8 quarts in the tranny, and around 3-4 in the transfer case). So a couple things to note. When we pulled the filler plug from the tranny, fluid poured out (probably 1-2 quarts?) I thought that was odd, but chalked it up to the fact that we had taken it on a short drive to warm up the fluid, and maybe it had expanded? Reading through some other threads, it may be a sign of failure of that seal/gasket?? I am going to go ahead and order that "insurance" hose...sounds like there is only up side to installing it, right? I've found a braided one on Ebay for about $100, and a non braided one on sor.com for about $70. Do those options sound right?

We are going to try and clean up the cases before we put the skid back on...it is definitely grimy down there! Next we'll drain and replace the coolant, so any tips on the next endeavor would be appreciated:)

Thanks again mudders!
 
Jayster034 said:
Thanks again for the input and advise everyone. So we drained all the tranny and transfer case fluid (removed the filler plugs first, thanks for that tip). So there certainly was plenty of fluid in there (around 7-8 quarts in the tranny, and around 3-4 in the transfer case). So a couple things to note. When we pulled the filler plug from the tranny, fluid poured out (probably 1-2 quarts?) I thought that was odd, but chalked it up to the fact that we had taken it on a short drive to warm up the fluid, and maybe it had expanded? Reading through some other threads, it may be a sign of failure of that seal/gasket?? I am going to go ahead and order that "insurance" hose...sounds like there is only up side to installing it, right? I've found a braided one on Ebay for about $100, and a non braided one on sor.com for about $70. Do those options sound right?

We are going to try and clean up the cases before we put the skid back on...it is definitely grimy down there! Next we'll drain and replace the coolant, so any tips on the next endeavor would be appreciated:)

Thanks again mudders!
Click to expand...

Jayster, your volume estimates might be off a little. According to Mud FAQ the transmission capacity should be 3.3 qts and the transfer 1.8 qts and of course when you drain one you won't get quite these volumes because some of the gear oil sticks to the gears. I agree your transmission volume is probably high but the transfer doesn't look that low. If i were you, I would drain both and refill to the fill hole level, then put the fill caps on and drive her a while and then check to see if an excessive amount of oil drains out the fill holes. It could be the transmission was over-filled in past servicing and excess expelled from the breather which is why there may seem to be a lot of oil/grease under there.

Re the by-pass hose, I think it was shipmag who was selling them here. Not sure if he still has any but I got one a few years ago and I think it was a ways below the $100. It is braided stainless steel and very good quality.

good luck,
Pete
 
Pete said:
Jayster, your volume estimates might be off a little. According to Mud FAQ the transmission capacity should be 3.3 qts and the transfer 1.8 qts and of course when you drain one you won't get quite these volumes because some of the gear oil sticks to the gears. I agree your transmission volume is probably high but the transfer doesn't look that low. If i were you, I would drain both and refill to the fill hole level, then put the fill caps on and drive her a while and then check to see if an excessive amount of oil drains out the fill holes. It could be the transmission was over-filled in past servicing and excess expelled from the breather which is why there may seem to be a lot of oil/grease under there.

Re the by-pass hose, I think it was shipmag who was selling them here. Not sure if he still has any but I got one a few years ago and I think it was a ways below the $100. It is braided stainless steel and very good quality.

good luck,
Pete
Click to expand...
Thanks again for this Pete, I think that's exactly what I'll do. So I've been looking for a good thread on how to flush the radiator. Draining the radiator and block seem to be pretty straightforward/messy (although any tips would be appreciated), but what if we wanted to do an actual flush? Any references to good threads, or just feedback would be helpful:)

Thanks!
 
Jayster034 said:
Thanks again for this Pete, I think that's exactly what I'll do. So I've been looking for a good thread on how to flush the radiator. Draining the radiator and block seem to be pretty straightforward/messy (although any tips would be appreciated), but what if we wanted to do an actual flush? Any references to good threads, or just feedback would be helpful:)

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I've never really done a serious flush and not sure if or how often it is needed. Ive used the over-the-counter radiator flush and followed the directions on the bottle. I think I remember also opening the valve low on the block on the drivers side, under the manifolds, opened the petcock on the bottom of the radiator, stuck a garden hose down the radiator neck and flushed away. I don't know if this did anything or not. I do know that one of my rigs stated to run a little warm and I couldn't get the radiator flushed well and wasn't getting good flow through the radiator so instead of taking it to a shop to have it cleaned out I just bought a new radiator. As I recall for a shop to clean one out they basically dismantle the whole radiator so they can rod out the tubes. If i were you, unless it's overheating, I think I might just try the flush from one of the auto supply stores. There might be something around Mud on doing a real flush.

Good luck,
Pete
 
Pete said:
I've never really done a serious flush and not sure if or how often it is needed. Ive used the over-the-counter radiator flush and followed the directions on the bottle. I think I remember also opening the valve low on the block on the drivers side, under the manifolds, opened the petcock on the bottom of the radiator, stuck a garden hose down the radiator neck and flushed away. I don't know if this did anything or not. I do know that one of my rigs stated to run a little warm and I couldn't get the radiator flushed well and wasn't getting good flow through the radiator so instead of taking it to a shop to have it cleaned out I just bought a new radiator. As I recall for a shop to clean one out they basically dismantle the whole radiator so they can rod out the tubes. If i were you, unless it's overheating, I think I might just try the flush from one of the auto supply stores. There might be something around Mud on doing a real flush.

Good luck,
Pete
Click to expand...
Josh.
Thanks once again Pete. And thanks for giving us for advice on the radiator, that should really help. Also you know when you said that we should check to make sure we can get the tranny and transfer fillers off. Well we did one but didn't see the other (Transfer I think) it was so covered in mud, we couldn't get it off, but after a few tries we got it (maybe a few strips). But last night we realized that the one my dad said half was actually almost dry. So my dad thinks that with the little pipe, it should be just fine. Once again thanks Pete you've been great.

Thanks for all your guys's help, you've been great.;)
Josh
 
Hey guys, we've done a lot of work, such as installing power steering, which was a big project, and a lot of other things. Sorry we haven't kept you posted, but right now we are going to work on some body work. We are planning to take off the top and start working on the quarter panels. We are also planning on replacing the fenders, because the old ones weren't great and it'd be nice anyways. After that it is smooth sailing, cleaning up, fixing up the horn (Which doesn't work for some really weird reason), and stripping the paint and grinding the surface rust off. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Josh.
 
Thanks for the horn tip Red Rocker. OK so we are taking of the top working on quarter panels and other body work. But while we are not working on it i would like to get the windshield sprayer working i don't know where the fluids for that is if that is empty or if it is broken, idk. If you guys could give me some tips that would be awesome. Thanks, Josh.
 
Jayster034 said:
Thanks for the horn tip Red Rocker. OK so we are taking of the top working on quarter panels and other body work. But while we are not working on it i would like to get the windshield sprayer working i don't know where the fluids for that is if that is empty or if it is broken, idk. If you guys could give me some tips that would be awesome. Thanks, Josh.
Click to expand...
I'll be sure to take some pics.
 
Also with the horn im not worried about the button itself but that it is not honking.
 
The washer bottle jug mounts aft of the driver side front fender. Below the brake booster. Pretty sure the pump should have a hot wire all the time. You can test that. When you twist the washer switch it grounds through the dash to complete the circuit. Attach a temporary ground wire to the switch and a known good ground. If you get squirtage when you twist, then you’ll know you need to clean up around the switch so it has a ground path through the dash.

Have you tested just the horns using jumper wires from a battery?
 
Thanks i think i will do that with the sprayer. And no i have not done that with the horn i will also try that. Right now we are going to replace the rear seal and the quarter panels. Any tips? Thanks, Josh.
 
@Jayster034 here is the washer reservoir location. Your local autoparts or hardware store may have tubing. You’ll need to find tubing with the correct .i.d. “Inside diameter”.
5361F7B5-0BFC-451F-B8D3-074FCA1FE2F8.webp


As emac pointed out the bottle in your video catches hot coolant from your engine.
 
Hey Mudders, I really appreciate all the help. My son (Josh) gets a kick out of all the "professionals" helping us out with our projects.

So our next big project is panel replacement. We are going to replace the rear sill, and the rear quarter panels (or at least cut out the corners and replace them).

So first question, I've seen several of these projects, and some have a stabilizer bar across the bed, some seem to have several stabilizer bars, so don't seem to have any.

I haven't been able to find anything that addresses this specifically. Basically I want to make sure that nothing moves when I remove parts.

Below is a video of the project. Any thoughts on the best way to stabilize this before we start removing the sill and the quarter panels?

 
Very nice solid project, and a good starting point. Full quarters is a good idea. Less body work and possible warped panels.
I like they way you call ccot seecot... ;)

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