'99 Cruiser trans fluid drain and fill questions (1 Viewer)

[CruisinNoob]

Hi all, I have a '99 LC100 with almost 226k miles on it.

I'm not sure when the transmission fluid was last changed so I'm planning on doing a series of diy drain and fills rather than taking it in for a flush, but I have some questions.

Should I go for synthetic? The owner's manual says to use Dexron II or III but doesn't specify beyond that. I'm assuming what's already in it is not synthetic. Is it safe to mix the different oil types like that?

I was planning on just draining through the drain plug and not dropping the pan at this time, as I have never had any problems with any fluid leaks on this truck and do not want to try resealing the pan until I've done some drain and fills and am familiar with the process. How important is it to drop the pan, and how often should it be done?

How important is it to go into diagnostic mode and bring the fluid up to temp to make sure the correct level is reached? I have seen people say they just measure the amount taking out and put exactly the same amount of new fluid back in. Is this a safe method when new and old fluid are at same temp, or should the fluid always be brought up to temp for refills?

Since I have the top dipstick I was planning on just funneling the new fluid in through there and not bothering to try getting fancy with pumps. Is this a reliable method, or could I run into trouble trying to bring the fluid level up like this?

The old fluid is pink in color so I don't think it's hurting too bad, but could use some fresh juice.

 

[TexLexican]

I also was thinking of filling through the dip stick, but I think for a brief time there would be too much fluid before the torque converter and none beyond. Who knows if that matters or not.

On my 4 runner I have mixed non WS (although synthetic) while doing a partial drain and fill through the pan. As long as both old and new fluids are the same temp and you're putting in the same amount, then I dont see a reason to go into diagnosis mode. For a full drain and fill I would go the diagnosis route, but at that high mileage I wouldnt consider that.

Does anyone know how many quarts the pan holds?

 

[CruisinNoob]

Seems to be going okay. Of course I got some on me and the ground.

There wasn't a gasket on the drain plug so I used a 12mm spare I had. Seems to fit.

Went with Valvoline Max Life Full Synthetic.

I couldn't get it to go into diagnosis mode so just idled it for 20 min and then opened the drain plug to let out the excess while still idling. Ended up over-torqueing and cross-threading the drain plug, it doesn't tighten to a stop and keeps spinning but it doesn't seem to be leaking. Also spilled a ton of the atf and had to do a lot of clean up. It seems like I ended up putting in less than I took out, but it's hard to tell.

I hope the cross-threading doesn't come back to bite me. I would rather not have to rethread the hole and use a bigger drain plug.

 

[CruisinNoob]

I also was thinking of filling through the dip stick, but I think for a brief time there would be too much fluid before the torque converter and none beyond. Who knows if that matters or not.

On my 4 runner I have mixed non WS (although synthetic) while doing a partial drain and fill through the pan. As long as both old and new fluids are the same temp and you're putting in the same amount, then I dont see a reason to go into diagnosis mode. For a full drain and fill I would go the diagnosis route, but at that high mileage I wouldnt consider that.

Does anyone know how many quarts the pan holds?

Owner's Manual says 3.7 quarts for a drain and fill on the LC100. Not sure how much for dropping the pan, I believe that's just the amount through the drain hole.

I don't know if mine has any other hole for filling other than the dipstick one.

 

[trdcorolla]

Welcome to mud, were you following the 5 speed transmission drain and fill threads? The 4 speed in the 98-02 don't have the check plug to let out excess fluid's at a specific temperature. Hopefully your level is correct after driving 10-20 minutes then checking it while your on a level surface. You might want to look for a 4 speed drain and refill thread for more info.

 

[CruisinNoob]

Welcome to mud, were you following the 5 speed transmission drain and fill threads? The 4 speed in the 98-02 don't have the check plug to let out excess fluid's at a specific temperature. Hopefully your level is correct after driving 10-20 minutes then checking it while your on a level surface. You might want to look for a 4 speed drain and refill thread for more info.

Yeah I don't have a service manual for my specific version, I have one for one of the 5 speeds. I did end up adding some more fluid this morning since it felt off. I guess I should have just followed the generic guides online and ignored my manual since it's for the wrong car. Hopefully no harm done. I'm going to do another drain and fill and add the 3.7 quarts the actual owner manual tells me asap.

I could only find one thread on the 4 speed, I guess people figured it was so easy a caveman could do it so it's a scarce topic.

2001 LC Transmission drain and fill

Is the drain and fill on the 4 speed 100 series just a simple drain from the bottom of the pan and then fill through the dipstick and check while out? With the search I keep finding information on the 5speed or the new WS transmissions. thanks

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[CruisinNoob]

The drain bolt tends to get stripped out, I don't think there is very much meat to the threads in the drain hole.

This is exactly what happened to me, now I'm stuck trying to find a replacement.

I'm worried I may end up needing to get a whole new pan, and I'm having trouble finding one.

In the meantime I may have to get one of those tension plugs they sell at auto stores, but I'm not sure if those are a trustworthy solution.

Does anyone know the size of the transmission drain plug and a source where I could get a new pan if it comes to that?

 

[2001LC]

The drain plug is softer metal than the pans capture nut.

Buy a new OEM drain plug and gasket (crush washer). Use a thread chase, to clean threads of capture nut.
Tip: By adding grease to threads of chase tool. You'll capture (most) metal practical in grease, that are cleaned from threads.

Toque new bolt to 13ft-lbf.

Check Transmission level, with a dip stick:
Drive a minimum of 20 minutes, shifting through all gears. Park on level ground, engine idling, shift through all gears slowly, holding in each at least 10 seconds. Shift to park or N, leaving engine idling. Check level.

BTW:
By looks of muck on bottom of your transmission pan, near drain bolt. It was removed before and not properly installed. Which indicates a flush or drain & fill was once done.

Parts store rent chase tool kits:

 

[Zjohnsonua]

The A343 likes to be slightly overfull, especially if you let the truck see severe angles. Get it hot, fill it to the top of "hot" then add 1cup.

 

[97 AZ LC]

You can also install a Fumoto drain valve with JB Weld. You will not only be able to drain the pan but it will be easier than it was with the plug. You will lose a little clearance, in a highly protected location as I recall. JB Weld will last for decades when properly installed on a clean surface. Taking the pan off is the best way to get an entirely clean surface. That will also allow you to clean up and smooth the excess on the inside of the pan. Let it set up for at least 24 hours before you introduce fluid. This can be a long term solution or it will allow you to take your time to find a used pan from a salvage situation. If no one knows the size and pitch of the plug buy a new one from the dealer.

 

[savirc]

This is exactly what happened to me, now I'm stuck trying to find a replacement.View attachment 3068229
I'm worried I may end up needing to get a whole new pan, and I'm having trouble finding one.

In the meantime I may have to get one of those tension plugs they sell at auto stores, but I'm not sure if those are a trustworthy solution.

Does anyone know the size of the transmission drain plug and a source where I could get a new pan if it comes to that?

wits end has replacement transmission drain bolts.

 

[CruisinNoob]

By looks of muck on bottom of your transmission pan, near drain bolt. It was removed before and not properly installed. Which indicates a flush or drain & fill was once done.

I did see it, so it's good that it had it done at some point. But unless it was done when this was my parents' car and they didn't keep the record, that would have been at least 64k ago and back in 2013 or older.

 

[2001LC]

I did see it, so it's good that it had it done at some point. But unless it was done when this was my parents' car and they didn't keep the record, that would have been at least 64k ago and back in 2013 or older.

I just had one, with no leaks. I'm sure transmission pan bolt had been out (newer gasket/washer, non OEM). Also transmission was a was overfilled. Transmission was acting poorly. I flushed with 12 qts of Mobil 1 MV full syn ATF. Works flawlessness now.

The owner has had since new, currently 370K miles on this 98. He is certain transmission never touched or fluid ever changed. So how is it, the pan bolt removed and fluid level not correct. Likely some lube-shop, removed wrong drain bolt. Then after draining pan, found their mistake and fill with some cheap ATF not filling/topping properly.

 

[CruisinNoob]

I ended up running a chaser through it and just using a same sized bolt since I didn't find the actual plug local. It's a bit longer but it fits. Gonna let it sit overnight to see if it holds. I need to get that torque wrench checked out, make sure I am actually getting it to the torque it says it is. I feel like the click isn't always obvious. Anyway she ran smoothly this time with the 3.5 L in, if the bolt holds in 200 miles she'll get another drain and fill. Hopefully it does so I can get to addressing the alternator and the rusted out muffler.

Rock auto had the plug size as m10 1.5 so I went with that and it seems to be correct.

 

[2001LC]

I ended up running a chaser through it and just using a same sized bolt since I didn't find the actual plug local. It's a bit longer but it fits. Gonna let it sit overnight to see if it holds. I need to get that torque wrench checked out, make sure I am actually getting it to the torque it says it is. I feel like the click isn't always obvious. Anyway she ran smoothly this time with the 3.5 L in, if the bolt holds in 200 miles she'll get another drain and fill. Hopefully it does so I can get to addressing the alternator and the rusted out muffler.

Rock auto had the plug size as m10 1.5 so I went with that and it seems to be correct.

I use only OEM drain plug. As I'm reasonable assured, drain plug thread's metal softer than pan female threads. I also use new OEM washer/gasket, every time. But washer can be non OEM.

 

[CruisinNoob]

Yeah that is a worry. The new bolt is definitely harder than the oem plug. Maybe I'll order an actual plug in for the next change so the pan is protected from stripping.

 

[CruisinNoob]

Dorman 65242 AutoGrade Oil Drain Plug Transmission M10-1.50, Head Size 14mm https://a.co/d/hyWcjHi

Found out doorman makes a drain plug in the size I need. Next time I drain and fill I'll swap it in.

 

[TexLexican]

How accurate are these dipsticks, considering how long they are and can be easily bent?

 

[medtro]

How accurate are these dipsticks, considering how long they are and can be easily bent?

How does bending impact accuracy?

 

[TexLexican]

How does bending impact accuracy?

More so kinked than bent. Wouldn’t it change the length going into the pan or would the tube straighten it out?