PNWTreeOctopus
SILVER Star
Plans to inspect your fuel tank interior?
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Negatron brosef. Tank is clean as a whistle. What you see inside there is fake news. Clean. It's never been opened up. Ever. So whatever is inside there will stay there until I open her up again, and who knows how long that will be. But thanks for incepting more work and spending more of my future dollars for me.Plans to inspect your fuel tank interior?
Thanks, Broski. I appreciate the kudos. It's a lot of work, but unlike a lot of the work I do as an adult, this work has a start and end (mostly) and is very rewarding. I know more challenges will await me, but that is part of the fun.Nice work, your definitely going Beyond The typical while you’re in there Mud stuff !!!
ratio?Thanks, Broski. I appreciate the kudos. It's a lot of work, but unlike a lot of the work I do as an adult, this work has a start and end (mostly) and is very rewarding. I know more challenges will await me, but that is part of the fun.
I just pulled the trigger on some new R&Ps from Revolution. Made in S. Korea, I paid an extra $200 for both sets to undergo REM treatment. Supposedly, it is a super-polishing process that mitigates the need for break-in. No, I didn't pay that much to avoid break-in. I did it because the professional doing my diffs recommended I do the REM treatment. He also recommended the Revolution R&Ps. I did very little research on them and saw that the Jeep dudes run them a lot. I don't hear of many cruisers running that gear.
So you are gonna roll with 315's? I though for sure you were joining the 37's club and 5.29.4.88
This ^^^I didn’t want to go too low. 4.88s and 37s should get me back to stock from what I have read.
Thanks, brother; I appreciate you! My EGR is disabled already with the Huddexpo bypass, but I have the block-off plates on the shelf. Not sure if I should still use those? That means removing the EGR pipe altogether, right? Is there any advantage to doing that vs. what I have done already? If I delete the pipe and block off the rear of the head, I'll have a rogue male fitting sitting in the open in my engine bay without a female counterpart, which won't pass the visual inspection for me. I might be missing additional technical details, though.Now the question is EGR delete? Good work man everything is looking proper.
This is a highly debated topic that I don’t have a ton of insight on. I personally have the hud expo kit on my 97 and just deleted the 94 that I’m working on. We don’t have visual inspections here so I just built 4 block of plates out of aluminum. 2 for the pair system which I also deleted one for intake EGR and one for block EGR. The only two upsides that I see and they are what sold me on the delete are the EGR pumping into cylinder 6 where most HG fail and the pipe smoking the harness. Now is that worth deleting just for that i say yes for me but that may not be enough for someone else. I’m sure someone will chime In shortly and start clogging up your thread with this illegal act! That I have committed. Anyways to each is own. The hud kit gets you to the same point and will even pass California inspection.Thanks, brother; I appreciate you! My EGR is disabled already with the Huddexpo bypass, but I have the block-off plates on the shelf. Not sure if I should still use those? That means removing the EGR pipe altogether, right? Is there any advantage to doing that vs. what I have done already? If I delete the pipe and block off the rear of the head, I'll have a rogue male fitting sitting in the open in my engine bay without a female counterpart, which won't pass the visual inspection for me. I might be missing additional technical details, though.
Oh, I don’t have emissions here either. I meant visually for me. I have to dig into it a little more before proceeding. You’re right though. Now is the time to decide!This is a highly debated topic that I don’t have a ton of insight on. I personally have the hud expo kit on my 97 and just deleted the 94 that I’m working on. We don’t have visual inspections here so I just built 4 block of plates out of aluminum. 2 for the pair system which I also deleted one for intake EGR and one for block EGR. The only two upsides that I see and they are what sold me on the delete are the EGR pumping into cylinder 6 where most HG fail and the pipe smoking the harness. Now is that worth deleting just for that i say yes for me but that may not be enough for someone else. I’m sure someone will chime In shortly and start clogging up your thread with this illegal act! That I have committed. Anyways to each is own. The hud kit gets you to the same point and will even pass California inspection.
Thanks man. I haven’t called them yet as I found this out late today after work and they were long closed.So when my machinist single employee shop does my heads. He does a 3 way valve grind decks the head and sets the clearance’s for me. That’s a complete rebuild. If the valves are out of spec he grinds the valve stem down to reach the clearance. Yes you can order varying sizes of shims but I would hold your machine shop accountable if they did a complete rebuild. Or at least talk to them about it. It’s good you checked your clearances yourself buts that why I pay a trusted machinist so I don’t have to. Now you can order shims I have looked at partsouq before and it’s a little complicated but they are stamped on the shim. Sometimes I use Toyota parts deal to look up parts because they have an easier website to navigate and have better descriptions. The first picture of from TPD and the second two are partsouq. I have never ordered a shim but I assume you would measure your out of spec shim with a micrometer and then do the math with what size shim you would need.
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Thank you for this. I plan to remove the camshafts this week to see what shim is installed and order what I need. This is a mild setback. I learned that if the shim is too thick, then the valve will remain open and will eventually burn out the valve. I'll take a hard pass on shortcuts and burying my head in the sand, pretending I didn't notice anything wrong....but the thought flashed across my mindI had 5 shims out of spec on mine:
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On the Exhaust side, if your .010 feeler gauge won't fit, you need a thinner shim. Use the table in the FSM.
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It was a pain to have to order the correct shims, wait for them to arrive, and install them, but I sure am glad I did. Going through all that work only to not be in spec sounded like a bad idea. I think I read somewhere that if a shim is too thick, then there won't be enough space for oil between the bucket and the cam lobe, which sounded like a bad thing.
Not sure if this was helpful beyond just commiserating about the fact that this is going to cost you some time.