Builds 94 FZJ80 - Let the Adventure Ensue (2 Viewers)

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Plans to inspect your fuel tank interior?
 
Plans to inspect your fuel tank interior?
Negatron brosef. Tank is clean as a whistle. What you see inside there is fake news. Clean. It's never been opened up. Ever. So whatever is inside there will stay there until I open her up again, and who knows how long that will be. But thanks for incepting more work and spending more of my future dollars for me. :flipoff2:
 
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Picked up the head on Friday, but was busy with removing the interior for seatbelt restoration, fuel work, and surviving body mounts replacement.
Pictures:
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This PHH is only 2+ years old. Gates green stripe. Bulging more than I’d expect.
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Going back to Toyota OEM
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Old style chain tensioner vs new style: either that or my engine will make like the Challenger in1986 upon first start. 🤷🏻‍♀️
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Ladies and gentlemen, I believe we can officially call this thing a long block now. Correct me if I’m wrong. IDGAF anyway, I have so much work remaining.
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I have to perform a valve clearance check now and I am at a good stopping point. So more to do tomorrow. My goal is to get the drivetrain installed by next Sunday.
 
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Nice work, your definitely going Beyond The typical while you’re in there Mud stuff !!!
 
Nice work, your definitely going Beyond The typical while you’re in there Mud stuff !!!
Thanks, Broski. I appreciate the kudos. It's a lot of work, but unlike a lot of the work I do as an adult, this work has a start and end (mostly) and is very rewarding. I know more challenges will await me, but that is part of the fun.

I just pulled the trigger on some new R&Ps from Revolution. Made in S. Korea, I paid an extra $200 for both sets to undergo REM treatment. Supposedly, it is a super-polishing process that mitigates the need for break-in. No, I didn't pay that much to avoid break-in. I did it because the professional doing my diffs recommended I do the REM treatment. He also recommended the Revolution R&Ps. I did very little research on them and saw that the Jeep dudes run them a lot. I don't hear of many cruisers running that gear.
 
Thanks, Broski. I appreciate the kudos. It's a lot of work, but unlike a lot of the work I do as an adult, this work has a start and end (mostly) and is very rewarding. I know more challenges will await me, but that is part of the fun.

I just pulled the trigger on some new R&Ps from Revolution. Made in S. Korea, I paid an extra $200 for both sets to undergo REM treatment. Supposedly, it is a super-polishing process that mitigates the need for break-in. No, I didn't pay that much to avoid break-in. I did it because the professional doing my diffs recommended I do the REM treatment. He also recommended the Revolution R&Ps. I did very little research on them and saw that the Jeep dudes run them a lot. I don't hear of many cruisers running that gear.
ratio?
 
I didn’t want to go too low. 4.88s and 37s should get me back to stock from what I have read.
This ^^^
Your Speedo should be spot on with this setup or really close 😉
 
Now the question is EGR delete? Good work man everything is looking proper.
 
Now the question is EGR delete? Good work man everything is looking proper.
Thanks, brother; I appreciate you! My EGR is disabled already with the Huddexpo bypass, but I have the block-off plates on the shelf. Not sure if I should still use those? That means removing the EGR pipe altogether, right? Is there any advantage to doing that vs. what I have done already? If I delete the pipe and block off the rear of the head, I'll have a rogue male fitting sitting in the open in my engine bay without a female counterpart, which won't pass the visual inspection for me. I might be missing additional technical details, though.
 
Thanks, brother; I appreciate you! My EGR is disabled already with the Huddexpo bypass, but I have the block-off plates on the shelf. Not sure if I should still use those? That means removing the EGR pipe altogether, right? Is there any advantage to doing that vs. what I have done already? If I delete the pipe and block off the rear of the head, I'll have a rogue male fitting sitting in the open in my engine bay without a female counterpart, which won't pass the visual inspection for me. I might be missing additional technical details, though.
This is a highly debated topic that I don’t have a ton of insight on. I personally have the hud expo kit on my 97 and just deleted the 94 that I’m working on. We don’t have visual inspections here so I just built 4 block of plates out of aluminum. 2 for the pair system which I also deleted one for intake EGR and one for block EGR. The only two upsides that I see and they are what sold me on the delete are the EGR pumping into cylinder 6 where most HG fail and the pipe smoking the harness. Now is that worth deleting just for that i say yes for me but that may not be enough for someone else. I’m sure someone will chime In shortly and start clogging up your thread with this illegal act! That I have committed. Anyways to each is own. The hud kit gets you to the same point and will even pass California inspection.
 
This is a highly debated topic that I don’t have a ton of insight on. I personally have the hud expo kit on my 97 and just deleted the 94 that I’m working on. We don’t have visual inspections here so I just built 4 block of plates out of aluminum. 2 for the pair system which I also deleted one for intake EGR and one for block EGR. The only two upsides that I see and they are what sold me on the delete are the EGR pumping into cylinder 6 where most HG fail and the pipe smoking the harness. Now is that worth deleting just for that i say yes for me but that may not be enough for someone else. I’m sure someone will chime In shortly and start clogging up your thread with this illegal act! That I have committed. Anyways to each is own. The hud kit gets you to the same point and will even pass California inspection.
Oh, I don’t have emissions here either. I meant visually for me. I have to dig into it a little more before proceeding. You’re right though. Now is the time to decide!
 
Friends, I need a little assistance.
I completed the valve clearance checks and ran into a snag. I expected to run into issues, and undoubtedly these situations are frustrating.

My intake and exhaust valves were all measured in spec EXCEPT the last lobe on the #6 exhaust camshaft. The .010 feeler gauge won't fit, which is the minimum limit. .009 fits, though, lol.

Of course, adjusting the #6 position valve clearance requires removing the camshafts to access the lifter and shims underneath it. No big deal, slight pain in the ass, but my questions are:

1. How can every single valve be within limits except for one?
2. I need to order shims, but before I do, is there a shim kit where I get a bag full of varied sizes? (my research tells me no, but I've only found one part number for a shim thus far.
3. Doesn't the machine shop check this clearance when they have the head? I'm not trying to pin blame: I'm only trying to understand.

Any assistance/direction/gentle whispers telling me to **** myself are all welcome.

Thanks in advance.
 
So when my machinist single employee shop does my heads. He does a 3 way valve grind decks the head and sets the clearance’s for me. That’s a complete rebuild. If the valves are out of spec he grinds the valve stem down to reach the clearance. Yes you can order varying sizes of shims but I would hold your machine shop accountable if they did a complete rebuild. Or at least talk to them about it. It’s good you checked your clearances yourself buts that why I pay a trusted machinist so I don’t have to. Now you can order shims I have looked at partsouq before and it’s a little complicated but they are stamped on the shim. Sometimes I use Toyota parts deal to look up parts because they have an easier website to navigate and have better descriptions. The first picture of from TPD and the second two are partsouq. I have never ordered a shim but I assume you would measure your out of spec shim with a micrometer and then do the math with what size shim you would need.

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So when my machinist single employee shop does my heads. He does a 3 way valve grind decks the head and sets the clearance’s for me. That’s a complete rebuild. If the valves are out of spec he grinds the valve stem down to reach the clearance. Yes you can order varying sizes of shims but I would hold your machine shop accountable if they did a complete rebuild. Or at least talk to them about it. It’s good you checked your clearances yourself buts that why I pay a trusted machinist so I don’t have to. Now you can order shims I have looked at partsouq before and it’s a little complicated but they are stamped on the shim. Sometimes I use Toyota parts deal to look up parts because they have an easier website to navigate and have better descriptions. The first picture of from TPD and the second two are partsouq. I have never ordered a shim but I assume you would measure your out of spec shim with a micrometer and then do the math with what size shim you would need.

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Thanks man. I haven’t called them yet as I found this out late today after work and they were long closed.
They did a full grind and clearance for me. I suppose I’ll call them tomorrow and see what they say. I’m not even sure what to ask for. Compensation of some money? Edited* I slept. I'm going to cut my losses with these guys. After I verify and validate my findings, I'll give them the feedback but I want nothing from them.

I will lose time, I will spend more money trying to get this into spec. I’m annoyed but this is a learning opportunity for me. I understand the formula out of the FSM for the most part. What I don’t get is how to measure the valve clearance yet. I have to research more.

My .010 feeler gauge doesn’t fit so doesn’t it stand to reason I need to remove a shim that has at least .010 thickness and if the shim I remove is thicker than that, it might still be in spec even without my replacing it with another thinner shim.

I have to get in there and get my hands on it. I’m typing with one hand as I tried cutting my thumb off preparing dinner so there’s that ok. Happy Monday! 🤣🤣🤣
 
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I had 5 shims out of spec on mine:

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On the Exhaust side, if your .010 feeler gauge won't fit, you need a thinner shim. Use the table in the FSM.

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It was a pain to have to order the correct shims, wait for them to arrive, and install them, but I sure am glad I did. Going through all that work only to not be in spec sounded like a bad idea. I think I read somewhere that if a shim is too thick, then there won't be enough space for oil between the bucket and the cam lobe, which sounded like a bad thing.

Not sure if this was helpful beyond just commiserating about the fact that this is going to cost you some time.
 
I had 5 shims out of spec on mine:

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On the Exhaust side, if your .010 feeler gauge won't fit, you need a thinner shim. Use the table in the FSM.

View attachment 3241864

It was a pain to have to order the correct shims, wait for them to arrive, and install them, but I sure am glad I did. Going through all that work only to not be in spec sounded like a bad idea. I think I read somewhere that if a shim is too thick, then there won't be enough space for oil between the bucket and the cam lobe, which sounded like a bad thing.

Not sure if this was helpful beyond just commiserating about the fact that this is going to cost you some time.
Thank you for this. I plan to remove the camshafts this week to see what shim is installed and order what I need. This is a mild setback. I learned that if the shim is too thick, then the valve will remain open and will eventually burn out the valve. I'll take a hard pass on shortcuts and burying my head in the sand, pretending I didn't notice anything wrong....but the thought flashed across my mind
 
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