Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
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@bmwjnky Hey that is different! Not seen that pressure sensor before, what does it do when the engine has little or no pressure when cold?
Dave
Did anyone come up with definitive numbers for the 3FE sender? Trailbus had come up with 82 and 12 ohms, but I don't think he ever actually installed those.
They are pretty cheap on eBay so I may give them a shot. I just wanted to see if anyone had confirmed they are working.
82 ohm / 82R - 3 watts / 3W - 1% - Metal Film Resistors (8 Pieces) | eBay
12 ohm / 12R - 3 watts / 3W - 1% - Metal Film Resistors (8 Pieces) | eBay
eBay has themAnyone has a spare 110 resistor?
part# RS02B110R0FB12
Mouser has them backordered (eta 18 weeks)
They carry plenty of 50ohm.
Where did u get that gauge?View attachment 1698832 I just bought a LC with the temp mod done. I seriously don’t know why anyone would want to do this mod as it psychologically stresses me out because with all my vehicles that I ever driven the needle stays in one spot and does not move until it senses that the engine is actually overheating. Lol.
Since the needle moves in positions that really make me feel uncomfortable, I decided to install a more accurate temp sensor which is the KOSO temp sensor with a 40mm adapter between the engine and the top of the radiator.
I just wanted to show a picture of “normal” temp display on a temp modded dash. The OEM thermostat opens completely at 180. And to me this picture would scare then sh!t out of me because of the position of the needle, which is no where near overheating.
If your bored and just want to stare at the needle all day while you are driving, by all means do the mod. But if you want an accurate display do a more accurate way of displaying the temp by installing a aftermarket temperature gauge IMhO.
Spending most of my time in the desert, I expect to run a little hotter and would like to mod the gauge so centered in the red is 230. Both my other vehicles run 190-200 normally so I'd like to setup the gauge so 190 is a little below center. So I'm clear on what I'm tinkering with, what does each resistor do? Does the 110 set the center point and the 50 set the span? I have seen a few alternate resistance values floating around anyone know what is needed for a 200 center and 230 centered on red?
Unless anyone knows of a better way, you can pull out the cluster, remove the clear lens, and re-install the cluster in the dash. Then go for a drive to fully warm up the engine. Once hot, pull over with the engine running and pull the needle off the temp gauge, then put it back on in the center position (assuming an un-modified gauge). Continue on driving to make sure the gauge remains stable. HTHI took apart the temp/oil pressure gauge to fix the oil pressure gauge. I removed the actual needles from both gauges and took the faces off. When I reinstalled, the temp gauge reads nearly maxed out, in the red, when the car isn't even warmed up yet. It returns all the way below C like normal when not receiving power. Anyone know a specific way the needle needs to go in to work properly again?
That’s exactly the way I actually corrected it actually. It was impossible for me to get the needle in the right spot without getting the car to op temp. Thanks!Unless anyone knows of a better way, you can pull out the cluster, remove the clear lens, and re-install the cluster in the dash. Then go for a drive to fully warm up the engine. Once hot, pull over with the engine running and pull the needle off the temp gauge, then put it back on in the center position (assuming an un-modified gauge). Continue on driving to make sure the gauge remains stable. HTH