93-97 Coolant Temperature Gauge Modification (1 Viewer)

treerootCO

Where are my keys?!
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Here is what 283F looks like with the coolant temperature modifications in place...

Doh!
IMG_3718.jpg


IMG_3717.jpg
 

NLXTACY

Wits' End
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Good to know our engines are good-to-go up to 283*

This should end the debate and over heating, temps, and the durability of these trucks...

Oh wait...this doesn't have a happy ending does it @treerootCO ?

:(
 

SmokingRocks

I bought a Cruiser to keep miles off my Cruiser
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Yikes....

Is there a thermostat that will open up at a lower temp? I plan on adding the KOSO guage to get an actual temp value... Just wondering.
 

Dave 2000

Not all Land Rovers are useless!
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Funny this thread coming back to life, I am doing some dash mods this weekend, and noted the gauge mod has just reached 5 years old and still works perfectly!

regards

Dave
 

SmokingRocks

I bought a Cruiser to keep miles off my Cruiser
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Yea but a warning light lets you know after its too hot, I want to know if I am starting to get it too hot.
 

Dave 2000

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Yea but a warning light lets you know after its too hot, I want to know if I am starting to get it too hot.

Agree 100%! I just assumed the light was a warning of possible overheating but alas, it seems Mr T had the same guy working on the temperature gauge for the engine as he did on the trans warning light.

Many years back I owned a Renault Master van, it too had a light come on when the engine was toast.

regards

Dave
 
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i install a gauge extra in transmission , very easy and efective , and a gauge for the radiator, but i like this mod to have double security in the temp. Anyone know if is posible to do in a 98 series.
 
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I have checked my car and its exactly like the photos of 1 post the gauges so i will try to do the mod. Can someone help me..... I only find a 50K resistor 3W but 2% wire ....can i use this without problem ??? the 110 i find the specs without any problem.
THANKS !
 

orttauq

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I did this mod a few months ago and did not like that normal operating temp (NOT) per ScanGauge for my LX the needle was above level by 2 needle widths.

Re-read this thread again, tore into dash and changed 110ohm down to a 100 (actual was 99.6ohm), all back together and out for a drive...needle is in same place. Is the 110ohm resistor not the one that sets the needle on the gauge? Do I need to go to 90ohm?

I would like it to be level at NOT. Per ScanGauge it will get north of 190* when stopped and as high as 204* on long hill climbs but really stays between 184-190 for daily driving. THANKS!
 
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I didn't read all the 28 pages in this thread but has anyone thought of putting in a coolant pressure warning light? I know its not how the HG usually fails but if you loose a hose or the heater valve fails it would be a great heads up warning. We used these in every race car we built at the shop I used to work at because you would see coolant pressure loss way before the temp gauge would move. They are pretty simple to hook up and could save you an engine rebuild.
 

Dave 2000

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@orttauq With the OE setup the gauge is 'set' in the centre, IOW it resists moving past that until the engine is very hot. When I did the mod (quite a few years back now), I found it important to make sure your soldering is good, and use a heat sink on the components. Mine now sits about a third of the way up when NOT and not at mid way.

I am wondering if setting it as you are, that you are not leaving enough room for the normal range of movement, i.e. it would read too hot when in reality it is still within operating spec?

@bmwjky I did consider an expansion tank with a level sensor, the problem is finding one that fits in the OE position, a sensor in the OE expansion tank would not register a large leak, so I have decided to go with this

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/fan-controllers-thermostats/cartek-coolant-level-alarm

And tie it into this module I have had made. This fits in the same slot as the gear indicator on automatic 80's, mine being manual this is a redundant area.

Dash insert.png


regards

Dave
 
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@orttauq
@bmwjky I did consider an expansion tank with a level sensor, the problem is finding one that fits in the OE position, a sensor in the OE expansion tank would not register a large leak, so I have decided to go with this

Dave

The coolant pressure warning light we used goes inline in the radiator hose so as soon as the cooling system loses pressure the light comes on, it is not a level sensor for the over flow tank.

Here is what we used along with an inline radiator hose adapter to screw the sensor probe into.
Longacre Gagelites Water Pressure 40141

This is the inline hose adapter, this one may not be exactly what we need for the cruisers but you can see what it looks like.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/..._JbKJ2tejkmFkRYW7-VM_CE1AUWlsid6YaxoCkezw_wcB
 

orttauq

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@orttauq With the OE setup the gauge is 'set' in the centre, IOW it resists moving past that until the engine is very hot. When I did the mod (quite a few years back now), I found it important to make sure your soldering is good, and use a heat sink on the components. Mine now sits about a third of the way up when NOT and not at mid way.

I am wondering if setting it as you are, that you are not leaving enough room for the normal range of movement, i.e. it would read too hot when in reality it is still within operating spec?

regards

Dave

Thanks Dave, I am trying to move the needle lower...your's is in the lower have at 1/3 full sweep at NOT? That would work for me. I checked the solder joints and they are good. You used 50 and 100ohm resistors?

Thanks
 

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