-Beno-
is the intake supported in the back or is it sitting on the gasket still?
Barrypt5
is the intake supported in the back or is it sitting on the gasket still?
Barrypt5
90K and Starter replacement job
- Thread starter spressomon
- Start date
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Intake nor throttle body were taken off at all. Just the wiring disconnected, the engine clamp on the PS was bent outward just an inch for clearance, battery disconnected, and then the intake disconnected all the way around.
The real trick is that damn bugger of a 14mm bolt in the back, behind the wire harness, but good tools take care of that pretty easily.
Had my 1998 contacts replaced in 2006 for $675.
Just had to do it again a few weeks ago, December 2010, for $680.
X2 on piss poor placement of starter.
Just had to do it again a few weeks ago, December 2010, for $680.
X2 on piss poor placement of starter.
Beno, in your pictures the throttle body is off and intake manifold is propped up.
bkgee, it's not so much miles but starts.
bkgee, it's not so much miles but starts.
hoser
SILVER Star
Was there room to put it anywhere else? Maybe way below near the oil pan but that would've brought on other problems, right?
true, but thats hard to measure. Walton, I am still curious to know how many miles for both
most i've read IIRC folks are getting more than 150k miles... i'd like to hold off on mine until 180k...
my starter was good at 160k+, it was the gear that got worn out somehow.
Receipts show PO replaced mine at about 60k.
yea i guess it is all over the map for mileage. which makes sense, some folks start their trucks 2 or 3x more than others every day, so starters might last 60 to 180k miles, with wide error bars 
maybe i should just fit it in next summer so i can forget about it.
maybe i should just fit it in next summer so i can forget about it.
Correct. He was doing some other things for the customer as well beyond just the starter.
I like this idea. What's the scoop on doing a starter in 45 mins!!!!?
Thanks for the great writeup. Just completed this weekend. One gotcha that may be documented elsewhere or maybe mine is an anomoly...only two of the four holes in the crank pulley are tapped. I spent a bunch of time trying to get the M8x1.25 to thread into an untapped hole 
I don't and haven't wrenched much, but I have tinkered a bit on my '96 80. It gave me a bit of confidence to wrench some more. I just finished the water pump/coolant flush on my Prius. I just bought my 98 LX with 93k miles and will be needing 90k service.
I want to do this job myself. I have been watching as many videos as possible and reading as many threads as possible.
I'm glad this thread is posted as a reference. Thank you for the write-up and the pics.
I want to do this job myself. I have been watching as many videos as possible and reading as many threads as possible.
I'm glad this thread is posted as a reference. Thank you for the write-up and the pics.
How important is that dust cover? I didn't realize I don't have that thing on until I just looked at this picture
Depends on where you live and how/where you drive.
Take a look at the underneath of your vehicle and outside of the engine. Would you want the same type of dust, grit, film, salt, moisture, etc....in the area of your Timing Belt, Cam and Crank seals, pulleys and crank sensor?
Some folks live in a pretty clean environment and the lack of a dust cover would probably not result in any issues for a long time (if ever).
Others (like me) drive down a dusty gravel road every day. Wouldn't work out well for me. The bearing in the pulleys and tensioner are 'sealed' so they are not as subject to contamination or wear as other items. But Toyota closed that area up pretty good for a reason, so it only makes sense to make sure it all goes back the same way.
IF you have any type of an oil leak (cam seals or crank seal) and the oil doesn't carry the dust away, it will eventually form a gritty paste (like fine grit valve lapping compound) that isn't good for rotating parts.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Mudder reported timing belt getting taken out due to a mouse getting through missing dust cover.
I purchased a one owner 2002 LC with 128K. The vehicle looks to have been well taken care of. The PO had a sticker for his next tire rotation and oil change. He has a newer air filter in the box. The vehicle was traded into a Toyota dealership so I never spoke with the PO. The dealership claimed PO reported he had his timing belt done at 80k at a local shop. The dealer attempted to contact the shop and they said they got a new computer system and cannot access old records but they did regular service on the LC. So I am debating about changing it even though it may not need it just for piece of mind. I cannot find any sticker under the hood. The water pump has some white RTV type gasket and I do not think that is factory. The right timing belt cover has some blue and yellow marked lines. So with that info would you assume it has been done? Can this repair be done without the FSM? I have read all of the write-ups and it all looks pretty clear except for the actual adjusting the timing to the marks. I imagine that is probably pretty important. My local Toyota shop quoted me 1,000 for new Timing Belt, Water pump and Cam seals. That doesn't seem too bad but if I could do it for $250 and a weekend I would consider it. I may need to purchase a gear puller and fabricate the long steel piece the folks are using. Is this repair done from on top or under the vehicle? Any help would be appreciated.
2001LC
SILVER Star
You can pull off top PS timing belt cover (3#) and look at belt. 10 minutes. 1/2 
.
9 out of 10 times engine is not blowing engine in non VVti (06-07), during T-belt failure.
$1k for timing belt is good price. You should also replace both T-belt pulleys which adds to cost. Cam & crank seals I'd leave alone if not leaking. Caution; Slee & I agree: Most work we do is correct what corner shops have done/F'd up!
If DIY I think you'll find your cost for parts a bit higher. FSM alone is ~$200 to $300 if you get hard copy, which I use step by step every time. Some kits and mud post have step by step, but I use only FSM.
Replace T-belt tensioner if any oil seen under boot. Good time to do PCV hoses, spark plugs, fan bracket, heater Tee's and coolant flush which will raise cost.
Note the Black FIPG is the pricey one, cost about $70.
.9 out of 10 times engine is not blowing engine in non VVti (06-07), during T-belt failure.
$1k for timing belt is good price. You should also replace both T-belt pulleys which adds to cost. Cam & crank seals I'd leave alone if not leaking. Caution; Slee & I agree: Most work we do is correct what corner shops have done/F'd up!
If DIY I think you'll find your cost for parts a bit higher. FSM alone is ~$200 to $300 if you get hard copy, which I use step by step every time. Some kits and mud post have step by step, but I use only FSM.
Replace T-belt tensioner if any oil seen under boot. Good time to do PCV hoses, spark plugs, fan bracket, heater Tee's and coolant flush which will raise cost.
Note the Black FIPG is the pricey one, cost about $70.
