Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (33 Viewers)

[wiynwiyn]

Yup. Power steering and driver side header was very tight on my swap. I figured the drive shaft would have hit sway bar over bumps or something so I fabricated the temporary sway bar drop at the time from the high density polyethylene (HDPE) plastic, rated 4,000 psi versus aluminum at 10,000 tp 75,000 psi. Easy to construct. I kept it on since I haven’t run into a problem with it yet. Wanted to experience with it. Will replace with a robust ones if it breaks. Torque on the bolts is 13 ft lbs I believe so I think the sway bar drop won’t need to be high compression, besides the sway bar shifts side to side.

 

[FlyinFaded]

^^ absolutely this.
PS, AC, alt, exhaust manifolds, oil pan at a minimum, check front driveshaft to oil pan, etc.

Now is the time to figure all that out, not after the mounts are burned in.

Oh for sure. Was just getting things in rough spots using a mock up block. I have my engine ready to go this weekend. Will be using it to place everything. Just machined my crossmember today to make it work. Should fit ok now based on what a few of you have been telling me. Slotted it 1 1/4 inch. Just to be sure. I won’t be using this once the truck is done. I have a stronger skid plate/crossmember that you can see under it kind of.

 

[FlyinFaded]

Yup. Power steering and driver side header was very tight on my swap. I figured the drive shaft would have hit sway bar over bumps or something so I fabricated the temporary sway bar drop at the time from the high density polyethylene (HDPE) plastic, rated 4,000 psi versus aluminum at 10,000 tp 75,000 psi. Easy to construct. I kept it on since I haven’t run into a problem with it yet. Wanted to experience with it. Will replace with a robust ones if it breaks. Torque on the bolts is 13 ft lbs I believe so I think the sway bar drop won’t need to be high compression, besides the sway bar shifts side to side.

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lol I had sway bar quick disconnects on and once I disconnected them, I never reconnected them. I took it off for the swap and sometime off-roading I bashed the pins that held the sway bar up out of the way and bent them. So there was no easy way to reconnect. So I just removed it altogether. I never used it anyways.

 

[FlyinFaded]

Might be a dumb question but I cant find it anywhere and my marks adapter kit left the plate and top hardware out of it. What size bolts do the holes in the top of the adapter take? Figured I would try here before i took it to a hardware store and started trying bolts lol

 

[NCFJ]

The PS pump coming very close to the steering box is normal with the OEM front drive set ups. One thing that will buy you 1/4" is to plate the outside of the frame in the area where the steering box mounts. This is common on wheeling trucks to prevent a somewhat common crack that forms in the frame sometimes behind the box, where panhard mounts. Two birds one stone kinda thing.

 

[FlyinFaded]

The PS pump coming very close to the steering box is normal with the OEM front drive set ups. One thing that will buy you 1/4" is to plate the outside of the frame in the area where the steering box mounts. This is common on wheeling trucks to prevent a somewhat common crack that forms in the frame sometimes behind the box, where panhard mounts. Two birds one stone kinda thing.

I have actually seen that on Delta's kit. I think im in pretty go shape, but once i replace my steering gear, ill probably do it. I have already spent alot of money at this point haha

 

[PIP]

The PS pump coming very close to the steering box is normal with the OEM front drive set ups. One thing that will buy you 1/4" is to plate the outside of the frame in the area where the steering box mounts. This is common on wheeling trucks to prevent a somewhat common crack that forms in the frame sometimes behind the box, where panhard mounts. Two birds one stone kinda thing.

80 series steering box spacer

This laser cut steel spacer moves the steering box 1/2" outward for extra engine/accessory clearance. Finished in satin black powdercoat. Must have for 5.9 Cummins swaps and many LS swaps. Includes correct, longer premium bolts.

powertrain-integration.com

These work pretty good too.

 

[NeverFinis]

80 series steering box spacer

This laser cut steel spacer moves the steering box 1/2" outward for extra engine/accessory clearance. Finished in satin black powdercoat. Must have for 5.9 Cummins swaps and many LS swaps. Includes correct, longer premium bolts.

powertrain-integration.com

These work pretty good too.

I wish I knew about this. Instead, I moved the motor mounts over 1/2" for needed clearance for the type II saginaw pump.

 

[4DOORFJ]

4

For Sale Thread 'Montrose, CO/Boise, ID - GM LS364/450HP - Gen III 6.0L LQ9, 24x Long Block - $6500'

Sep 8, 2025

Selling my GM LS364/450HP - Gen III 6.0L LQ9, 24x Long Block with less than 100 miles on it. I pulled it out of my 80 Series to run Gen IV LS3/6l80e.

Bought directly from Gandrud GM Performance. Was installed by techs at Proffitt's Resurrection Land Cruisers. Have warranty and receipt.

LS364/450HP - Gen III 6.0L 24x Long Block

Check out the deal on LS364/450HP - Gen III 6.0L 24x Long Block at GM Performance Motor

www.gmperformancemotor.com

I can provide a list of absolutely everything you need to finish the motor and run this into an 80 Series with a 4l80e.

Motor is in Montrose, CO, but will be transporting to Boise, ID so happy to deliver at no cost if it logistically works...

• 4DOORFJ
• ls swap
• Replies: 1
• Forum: Classifieds - Engine/Transmission/Transfer Case

 

[FlyinFaded]

Hooking up my heater hoses today and realized this cable no longer moves when I adjust the hot/cold slider on my center console. Does it come disconnected easily in the dash? I have never encountered this issue before. I don’t think the vehicle needs power for it, or does it? Battery isn’t hooked up. Any ideas before I tear apart the dash for no reason?

 

[ppc]

Hooking up my heater hoses today and realized this cable no longer moves when I adjust the hot/cold slider on my center console. Does it come disconnected easily in the dash? I have never encountered this issue before. I don’t think the vehicle needs power for it, or does it? Battery isn’t hooked up. Any ideas before I tear apart the dash for no reason?

The cable connects from HCV to a servo motor not to the slider mechanically so yes you need electrical power.

 

[FlyinFaded]

The cable connects from HCV to a servo motor not to the slider mechanically so yes you need electrical power.

Awesome. Wasn’t sure if that. Thanks brotha

 

[wiynwiyn]

Yes electrical not mechanical. I believe that cable is connected to the heatercore flap. See if you can hear it moves when you switch from cold to hot. You can also remove this vent piece over the driver side, under the steering wheel area. Looking into the heater core. If it works you see it move as well. I replaced my heater core (leak). At the time I can see the cable move in the engine bay. And saw it move inside. So I knew it was working properly. If it's blowing hot air into your cabin and haven't fix the problem yet. Try to shut the valve with your fingers in the engine side if you want cooler air. From your picture, maybe the cable is bent, causing it not to move? Also, see if the cable retracts in and out.

 

[FlyinFaded]

Yes electrical not mechanical. I believe that cable is connected to the heatercore flap. See if you can hear it moves when you switch from cold to hot. You can also remove this vent piece over the driver side, under the steering wheel area. Looking into the heater core. If it works you see it move as well. I replaced my heater core (leak). At the time I can see the cable move in the engine bay. And saw it move inside. So I knew it was working properly. If it's blowing hot air into your cabin and haven't fix the problem yet. Try to shut the valve with your fingers in the engine side if you want cooler air. From your picture, maybe the cable is bent, causing it not to move? Also, see if the cable retracts in and out.

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I don’t have the battery connected at the moment so that would explain why it wasn’t moving. I thought I was mechanical, not electrical. So that explains it. I’ll have to check in the coming weeks when I start hooking it back up.

 

[Matty c]

Just put my new headers in and it's up against the steering shaft! What's the best option here, shim the steering box over 1/2 inch and adjust all the steering linkage which im told might cause bump steer! Or bash my new stainless headers in a bit

 

[PIP]

Just put my new headers in and it's up against the steering shaft! What's the best option here, shim the steering box over 1/2 inch and adjust all the steering linkage which im told might cause bump steer! Or bash my new stainless headers in a bit

Spacing the steering box out 1/2" will not cause bump steer. It doesn't change the steering geometry at all. After you put it in, recenter the steering wheel and you're good.

I drive a lifted '97 with this 1/2" spacer every day.

 

[FlyinFaded]

Just put my new headers in and it's up against the steering shaft! What's the best option here, shim the steering box over 1/2 inch and adjust all the steering linkage which im told might cause bump steer! Or bash my new stainless headers in a bit

From my experience. I only encounter bump steer when moving fast through stuff. Id say shim it, sounds like the more cost effective job unless youre not opposed to different headers. I have the summit hooker knockoffs, they are close but they clear.

 

[Matty c]

From my experience. I only encounter bump steer when moving fast through stuff. Id say shim it, sounds like the more cost effective job unless youre not opposed to different headers. I have the summit hooker knockoffs, they are close but they clear.

Yeah I got some nice speed engineering 304 stainless headers so beating them up before they've even been used nearly brought a tear to my eye .
I think I'll shim the box and see how it goes. Thanks for your input!!!

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Never encountered this problem

 

[FlyinFaded]

Has anyone used a shiftworks shift cable for the a their trans shifting? They look super clean, they are shorter than the trailblazer cable (which i have already). I called them, they are unsure if it will work because they design them for their shifters in mind. They dont know if the toyota shifter and the 4l80 lever match in their distances and stuff like that. I am unsure if I have it correctly in my mind. I measure the distance from park to low on the trans and the distance from park to low on the toyota shifter and i take the greater of the 2 for my throw distance...?
Then i measure the degrees between each gear on both of them and match them up? or is that where the modding begins? and does this have to be done with the trailblazer cable? I know that the cable end doesnt necessarily mount to the toyota shifter directly there will be slight modification there or adding a heim to something etc. but unsure about the cutting of the arm to get the degrees to match? this is where i am unsure... @thatcabledude you have been invaluable on this topic i have looked at your photos but i just am not clear on this last part. (edited since original posting)