8x Series V8 Swaps (6 Viewers)

[NeverFinis]

This is what you need. In stock and ships today.

80 Series Water Temp Sender for LS / Vortec

Modified OEM 80 Series Water Temp Sender to fit GM LS / Vortec cylinder heads for conversions keeping original gauges. Recommended torque spec: 50 in-lb

cruisermatts.com

Thanks! Ordered..

I have to bring my LS Swap issues here more often...

 

[Brindleboxer]

I know this was brought up in the past but I didn't see much response.

When doing the swap did you keep the Toyota ECM and wiring in the truck or did you remove it? I am trying to figure out the reasoning behind keeping or removing.

 

[PIP]

I know this was brought up in the past but I didn't see much response.

When doing the swap did you keep the Toyota ECM and wiring in the truck or did you remove it? I am trying to figure out the reasoning behind keeping or removing.

Seems like this question is asked here every week.

It should be clear that you need to remove it if you plan out your wiring harness mods because absolutely nothing will actually be connected to the ECM after you remove all the 1FZ wiring.

The gauge sensors and cruise control are stand alone.

 

[Brindleboxer]

@PIP I understand but there have been several post where people state they kept their Toyota PCM and I am trying to understand why?

 

[Matty c]

I know this was brought up in the past but I didn't see much response.

When doing the swap did you keep the Toyota ECM and wiring in the truck or did you remove it? I am trying to figure out the reasoning behind keeping or removing.

I'm interested in this as well so following!!

 

[TLC94LS]

I got the ecm mount from Tejas Metal works. It’s for C10 conversions. But what’s nice is the pre fab relay/ fuse block options. He has several options available. Thick steel. I plan on mounting it behind the batter box where the charcoal canister used to be.

 

[PIP]

@PIP I understand but there have been several post where people state they kept their Toyota PCM and I am trying to understand why?

Maybe because they didn't plan out their wiring at all?

I've seen a lot of head scratching wiring going on with some these swaps.

The Toyota wiring is really good. It's really easy to understand what does what and how you can eliminate the 1FZ and keep the harness working 100% like it did from the factory. It's works out nice.

I don't even know how you would leave it connected. If you wire everything up right there won't be anything left connected to it.

 

[kgthom]

I got the ecm mount from Tejas Metal works. It’s for C10 conversions. But what’s nice is the pre fab relay/ fuse block options. He has several options available. Thick steel. I plan on mounting it behind the batter box where the charcoal canister used to be.

View attachment 3446333

View attachment 3446334

I should have looked around more before making mine!
I mounted it where the old cruise control motor was.

 

[TLC94LS]

Getting it mocked up. Going to need to make a relief cut in the battery box for the lower front corner. No biggie.

 

[White Stripe]

I know this was brought up in the past but I didn't see much response.

When doing the swap did you keep the Toyota ECM and wiring in the truck or did you remove it? I am trying to figure out the reasoning behind keeping or removing.

You remove the Toyota ECU because it cannot interface in any way with the LS ECU. If you are doing the swap yourself, wiring is the most critical part to understand. Make yourself your own wiring diagram in a notebook or something on where each where goes. That is the first and probably most critical step in my opinion. And you don't really need to spend any money to do it...well except for buying a notebook and some pens or colored pencils.

 

[NeverFinis]

This is the way I am mounting the GM ECM and fuse panel/relays. I have a second battery tray, which moves the washer fluid reservoir back to the firewall. Both present issues with mounting the ECM/Fuse Panel/Relays.

The ECM is mounted on a factory plastic bracket which is bolted to modified (i.e. butchered) cruise control brackets, which still have their rubber isolators.

 

[TLC94LS]

The later gen ecms are so more compact. Nice set up!

 

[tmxmotorsports]

The later gen ecms are so more compact. Nice set up!

Yeah other ones are like mounting an old lunch box

 

[Jacobs]

I'm also interested in this. I've had a hell of a time with my tach. Seems that I've also stumped the awesome folks over at Dakota Digital. Using an SGI100BT, I can verify signal in, signal out, and I can send a test signal that works perfect. However, when I start the rig, nothing. Sometimes the tach jumps up to 1k at startup, but not always.

The resistor bypass is the last thing I haven't tried. Was really hoping to complete the swap without taking my dash bezel off.

Hey, sorry I'm not on here much. If you have an earlier than e38 ECM (2005 or earlier I believe) you have to get the Dakota working. I can probably help there too but I'd have to know more...

If you're running an E38 or E67 there are a few things you must do (this is to run your tach without a dakota digital unit):

- This is where I learned to bypass the cluster resistor. I haven't seen it anywhere else, I figured I'd give it a shot since my tach was completely dead without it.
-Run a 10K pull up resistor, basically teed into the e38 signal out and the toyota tach signal in "tee" a 10k from 12v hot when running, to the resistor, to the signal wire. You could do all this on the cluster if you can find a clean 12v when on source. If you were to look at the signal on an oscilloscope it would be the same signal but "pulled up" higher.
-You also need to configure (in hp tuners or EFI Live) the tach signal needs to be set to "crank" and the pulses needs to be "9 high" and "10 low". This is found under "tacho" in efi live, for hp tuners: V8 tach output for 6 cylinder tachometer - https://forum.hptuners.com/showthread.php?15112-V8-tach-output-for-6-cylinder-tachometer

Hope this helps someone, I got a lot of help from this thread- thanks everyone.

 

[jdmblingn]

Hey, sorry I'm not on here much. If you have an earlier than e38 ECM (2005 or earlier I believe) you have to get the Dakota working. I can probably help there too but I'd have to know more...

If you're running an E38 or E67 there are a few things you must do (this is to run your tach without a dakota digital unit):

- This is where I learned to bypass the cluster resistor. I haven't seen it anywhere else, I figured I'd give it a shot since my tach was completely dead without it.
-Run a 10K pull up resistor, basically teed into the e38 signal out and the toyota tach signal in "tee" a 10k from 12v hot when running, to the resistor, to the signal wire. You could do all this on the cluster if you can find a clean 12v when on source. If you were to look at the signal on an oscilloscope it would be the same signal but "pulled up" higher.
-You also need to configure (in hp tuners or EFI Live) the tach signal needs to be set to "crank" and the pulses needs to be "9 high" and "10 low". This is found under "tacho" in efi live, for hp tuners: V8 tach output for 6 cylinder tachometer - https://forum.hptuners.com/showthread.php?15112-V8-tach-output-for-6-cylinder-tachometer

Hope this helps someone, I got a lot of help from this thread- thanks everyone.

Thanks! Ah, forgot that detail. I have a P59 ECM.

I haven't updated here because I still can't figure it out. Still thinking the cluster resistor might be my next option.

 

[TLC94LS]

I had to do the resistor bypass. And you can see my settings in a post somewhere on here. I also was using the blue tooth method, which I wasn’t sure it was “writing” the new setting every time. I felt a key cycle was needed sometimes.

 

[Jacobs]

^^^ this guy figured it out I think; I would try the cluster resistor bypass if nothing else is working. If that doesn't do and everything else is 100% I'd start wondering if I fried my tach trying stuff.

 

[jdmblingn]

I had to do the resistor bypass. And you can see my settings in a post somewhere on here. I also was using the blue tooth method, which I wasn’t sure it was “writing” the new setting every time. I felt a key cycle was needed sometimes.

Thank you! I had read through a bunch of your info (very helpful overall) and didn't realize that you did the resistor bypass. That must be it. Guess I'll be pulling the cluster this weekend.

 

[TLC94LS]

Interesting it works on a test signal. To me that’s half the battle. Was this your LC before? Did it work before? I assume you’re getting good signal from PCM, mine was a Gen 3 from a 2000 HD LQ4. So not sure your exact set up. I did the resistor bypass. And if you look you should fine a post I did with my setting on my DD box.

 

[TLC94LS]

If you can check all your light bulbs in that cluster before it goes back in!! I checked them a batter and some jumper wires. Swap that D light if you never have! I bought LEDs to put in for the back lighting. And I think my wife threw away the little bag on the counter. I told her it was 100$ worth of leds. She said I wasn’t allowed to order them again! So regular bulbs went back in!