Yeah I’m tracking on the regulator. Mines a 00 LQ4. Just need the filter. I’m scouring Amazon. Haven’t found one with the rail female side. I made hoses and made a plate. But that fuel rail filter is so much easier.
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While you are on here, did you run 3/8 from tank back or adapt the 5/16 to 3/8 at the drivers fender? If you adapted fender what was your solution there?Yeah I’m tracking on the regulator. Mines a 00 LQ4. Just need the filter. I’m scouring Amazon. Haven’t found one with the rail female side. I made hoses and made a plate. But that fuel rail filter is so much easier.
OK, that's kinda where I'm at too. Cut original fitting, reflaired, used Earls-5an to-6an and went into my filter/reg from there.So far I kept all stock plumbing to the engine bay. Then just made some hoses and added a filter near where the old fuel resistor used to mount. I know some report heat getting to the fuel lines and causing vapor lock. Some do, some don’t. I’m think I’ll try some heat wrap and a shield before running all new lines.
That is real similar to what I came up with. I have a returnless setup thoughAlso redid my electric fan wiring. Run much more smoothly. Need to wrap up the wires and put covers over the slow blow circuit breakers. Which are now what comes with and is recommended by Derale electric fans kit. They move some serious air. Ground triggers provided by GM pcm. Temp spread by 5 degrees or when a/c is on below 60mph. Well at least that’s what I tried to program.
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I would have to dig it up but it was a GM filter that had the same male and female quick connect as the rail. Keep in mind that 80 has the early rails with the built-in regulator so the filter is still pre-regulator. I wouldn't do this on the later return-less rails since out wouldn't be filtering before the regulator, if that makes sense. And yes it has worked out well for 1.5 year / 25k mile so far.
I built a bracket to protect from radiant heat. Attaches to the MC bolts to the booster.So far I kept all stock plumbing to the engine bay. Then just made some hoses and added a filter near where the old fuel resistor used to mount. I know some report heat getting to the fuel lines and causing vapor lock. Some do, some don’t. I’m think I’ll try some heat wrap and a shield before running all new lines.
not super excited to spend 400 bucks on a CamaroPS pump and relocation bracket to flop my alt. and power steering pump locations. I have the marks 4wd motor mounts. Does anyone else have a solution for clearance? my PS is lightly touching steering box. I thought about spacing the steering box with some flat bar and longer bolts. then I have to mess with everything on down the line though
I found a relocation bracket that let's me keep the stock PS. I had thought about buying your mounts but wasn't real sure how well they worked with the marks TC adapter. Also saw a few people had problems with your mounts so wasn't super excited to try them.My motor mounts don't have this problem and are half the cost
I found a relocation bracket that let's me keep the stock PS. I had thought about buying your mounts but wasn't real sure how well they worked with the marks TC adapter. Also saw a few people had problems with your mounts so wasn't super excited to try them.
Well, that was a bizarre interaction. Thankfully I had a few people reach out in DMs with a working solution.For anyone else, they work perfectly with the Mark's transfer case adapter.
Can you please show the problems people have had with them so I can see? The ONLY complaint I have gotten is minor difficulty with the driver side upper bolt clearing the frame rail (which is a possibly if the engine is mounted too low), which is easily solved with trading the flange head bolt for a SHCS.
For anyone else, they work perfectly with the Mark's transfer case adapter.
Can you please show the problems people have had with them so I can see? The ONLY complaint I have gotten is minor difficulty with the driver side upper bolt clearing the frame rail (which is a possibly if the engine is mounted too low), which is easily solved with trading the flange head bolt for a SHCS.
your really gonna go all sad girl on me and thumbs down all my comments? I'm sorry it hurts your feelings. You don't make a product I'm interested in and at this point I 100% will never buy anything from you.For anyone else, they work perfectly with the Mark's transfer case adapter.
Can you please show the problems people have had with them so I can see? The ONLY complaint I have gotten is minor difficulty with the driver side upper bolt clearing the frame rail (which is a possibly if the engine is mounted too low), which is easily solved with trading the flange head bolt for a SHCS.
That makes me nervous. Do you have several good grounds on the ls harness? I bought an aftermarket swap harness but it has a solid 5 grounds. Was having issues with my diffs and it was the ground from TC to chassis....Well just took it around the block a few times. Still not to confident in it. Got a small power steering leak at the gear box, easy fox. One of the fans wouldn’t come on. The relay was clicking continuously. Has to be a ground issue, relay power is hot, and it’s not the fuse since it’s the relay. Not sure if the pcm is not providing a constant ground. The relay work when I op check them by putting wires directly to ground. Also quit on me going to down the road, but in neutral and it fired right back up? Not sure what that is. Ground issue is all I can think of.
@tucken72 there’s my old post.^No, but I just snapped some pictures. They aren’t the greatest, but it’s pretty simple.
Flip the lever on the trans to the top so the push/pull interface between the shifter is correct. A simple mount in the trans tunnel on the passenger side to hold that cable will need to be fab’d up. Shifter works perfectly like stock after playing with adjustment a bit.
Stock GM cable bracket on side of trans (flipped to the top of course):
View attachment 2399616
View attachment 2399615
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Factory GM lever flipped to the top:
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Here is the simple mount that is bolted to the passenger side of the trans tunnel to hold the cable on that end:
View attachment 2399619
Hope this helps. It has worked perfectly for 3yrs 30k+ miles.