Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (5 Viewers)

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The EROD LS3 6.2 is not the best motor choice for the 80 series in my opinion and I have one. Don't get me wrong I love it and it puts a smile on your face everytime you drive it. There are several reasons why I would go with some of the other options out there. I think I posted on this subject somewhere in this thread.
Heresy! I really wish the supercharger was still available.
 
Bloc,

Were you asking me why I didn't run an Escalade take out in my rig?

I don't think so. Your setup is awesome. My post above was more directed at MDJ.

A few years ago, I had a 2009 DBW, 5.3L LY5 with 4L80E transmission swapped into my 97 LC. My first radiator and electric fan choices were failures. The LC would overheat while in 4 low during a long ascent. I changed my radiator to a Ron Davis with dual SPAL fans and have not been above 212 degrees since. My LC weighs about 7500 lbs fully loaded. I am a believer in the Ron Davis solution. I have not tried to tow anything off road yet and probably never will. I thought you'd like to hear about a positive electrical fan/radiator experience. I also added a 270 amp alternator.

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If I have problems that is most likely the route I'll go.
 
Looking into a 2uz swap in my 80 series and I see many use the 100 series transmissions. Is this because there a difference in input shaft length on the 80 series a343 vs the 100 series a343? Or is it just to make the wiring easier?
 
You in An emission-check county?
I'm in Connecticut and they require swaps to be same year or newer and require a cat. Cat can be of any variety and only needs to pass a visual check to see that it's there. Vehicle is plugged into state test machine vis obdII and as long as no check engine lights or codes and readiness monitors are good your all set
 
Just curious, what stall torque converters are you guys running? About to pull the trigger on a 4L65E to go with my LQ4, most of the torque converter info I can find online is for drag cars, hotrods etc...
 
Just curious, what stall torque converters are you guys running? About to pull the trigger on a 4L65E to go with my LQ4, most of the torque converter info I can find online is for drag cars, hotrods etc...

Stock.
 
Are you guys leaving your heater control valve open all the time? Especially the ones with truck water pumps?

I spent some time looking at the old pump and suspected this would be the case.. but it seems without water flowing through the heater there's not engine-temp water flowing across the thermostat to get it to open when needed. I have had the valve open to purge the system of air and got everything put back together today. Closed the valve, hooked it up to the cable, went around the block. Coolant temps 220+ per HPTuners. pulled over, opened the valve because I suspected this issue, and temps went right back down to 200.

If it needs constant water flow I might build a switchable bypass valve so I can keep the hot water out of the dash area..

It is still WAY too loud. And other than rebuilding the exhaust I've run out of options..

Also need to figure out some weird shift flaring.. but other than that it is awesome to have it back on the road.
 
In case anyone was wondering...

I contacted Jegs, who sells the 6.2L Erod package and they got ahold of Chevrolet Performance regarding GVWR stuff. Chevy states that the ONLY reason the GVWR is listed in the instruction sheet is for CA vehicles. They state it is a requirement. They also said there shouldn't be an issue with the install in CO, which is great news. They did, however, state that it is up to the inspector and station you take your vehicle to.

As stated many times earlier and in other threads, it seems to me that if the swap is performed in a professional manner and that everything looks as it is supposed to, you'll pass. Shouldn't be much of a reason for an emissions station to put your vehicle on a scale.
 
@azcrackshot I did a little rummaging and couldn't come up with what manifolds you wound up going with? Did you ever do a build thread that I'm missing?
 
Well, it'll pass if the 80 came from the factory with an OBDI port......up through year 95 I believe. They won't be plugging into your LC. If they plug into a OBDII port on a 96 or 97 with a chevy swap and see there's no EGR it will fail. To make matters worse there's no way to turn a fake EGR on in the Chevy ECM because the chevy did not come equipped with it. Maybe some do but my 2009 5.3 didn't. The DEQ here wants to see what the 80 had from the factory when they plug their test machine into OBDII.

I know this because it happened to me.

Bottom line here is if you do a swap.....it's best to do it into a 95 or earlier just to be safe.
 
This is what the 'executive order' is supposed to do for you with the erod engines...pass emissions. It's meant to go into 96 and earlier vehicles for that exact reason.

I plan to do extensive research before pulling the trigger on one of these engine (and transmission) setups. It'll all be documented here.
 
This is what the 'executive order' is supposed to do for you with the erod engines...pass emissions. It's meant to go into 96 and earlier vehicles for that exact reason.

I plan to do extensive research before pulling the trigger on one of these engine (and transmission) setups. It'll all be documented here.

Preaching to the choir. I am a believer. There needs to be some options for 97 and newer vehicles as well. The only things that will fly now that I know of is a rebuild of the existing motor or swapping in the same engine from another vehicle of the same year, make and model.
 
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Are you guys leaving your heater control valve open all the time? Especially the ones with truck water pumps?

I spent some time looking at the old pump and suspected this would be the case.. but it seems without water flowing through the heater there's not engine-temp water flowing across the thermostat to get it to open when needed. I have had the valve open to purge the system of air and got everything put back together today. Closed the valve, hooked it up to the cable, went around the block. Coolant temps 220+ per HPTuners. pulled over, opened the valve because I suspected this issue, and temps went right back down to 200.

If it needs constant water flow I might build a switchable bypass valve so I can keep the hot water out of the dash area..

It is still WAY too loud. And other than rebuilding the exhaust I've run out of options..

Also need to figure out some weird shift flaring.. but other than that it is awesome to have it back on the road.
i'm using the factory heater control valve as is. I just hooked up the heater hoses to the water pump. ( truck pump) no issues
 
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i'm using the factory heater control valve as is. I just hooked up the heater hoses to the water pump. ( truck pump) no issues
The ls motors have an internal bypass for circulation. You do not need the heater connected for the t stat to work. My 6.0L in my jeep has the heater fittings removed and pipe plugs in there place. I run no heater in the jeep. All throttle and smiles
 
Preaching to the choir. I am a believer. There needs to be some options for 97 and newer vehicles as well. The only things that will fly now that I know of is a rebuild of the existing motor or swapping in the same engine from another vehicle of the same year, make and model.

It's all a giant money-grab if you ask me. There aren't enough pre-'96 vehicles on the road to justify the nationwide (essentially) infastructure needed to constantly do emissions testing. Especially every year.

The govt. has always been good at making money, though.
 
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The ls motors have an internal bypass for circulation. You do not need the heater connected for the t stat to work. My 6.0L in my jeep has the heater fittings removed and pipe plugs in there place. I run no heater in the jeep. All throttle and smiles

Then something about mine is different. I can close the heater valve at idle and watch the water temps rise.. open it and they fall and stabilize.

Where is this internal bypass? The second plunger on the back of the t-stat? At room temp it is firmly closed for both ACDelco thermostats I have sitting here.
 
For those interested in Colorado regs on swaps. Did some digging.


ENGINE CHANGES
XI.A. For those vehicles in which the original engine has been replaced, the emissions limits and applicable emissions control equipment for the year and model of the vehicle body/chassis, as per registration/title or replacement engine, whichever is newest, shall apply. For those diesel powered vehicles which have been converted to operate on fuel(s) other than diesel; the emissions limits and applicable emissions control equipment for the year, make and model of the gasoline powered engine equivalent as originally manufactured, for the vehicle body/chassis, per the registration or replacement engine, whichever is newest, shall apply as determined by emissions technical center personnel or designee and specified on an official AIR Program vehicle evaluation form (DR2365).
XI.B. For 1975 and newer vehicles in which the original engine has been replaced, if either the vehicle body/chassis original engine, as per registration/title or replacement engine as manufactured had a catalytic converter system, air injection reaction system, and/or microprocessor based air/fuel control system, these emission control systems must be present, intact and operational before a Certification of Emissions Control may be issued.
 
Sounds like if the new engine didn't have EGR you don't need it.
 
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