Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (4 Viewers)
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Not yet. Still a few things to finish.
I ordered an adapter from the parker store for my water temp sender. It is a hydraulic adapter made out of steel. 16mm x 1.5mm female to 12mm x 1.5 male. It will screw into the plugged hole in the head and allow me to use the toyota sender. It cost less than $20
tell him Pipes sent you...
sgpipes.....PM Sent
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Where is everyone getting their EWDs? I would love to get my hands on the book.
EWD's? Electrical wiring Diagrams I pressume. I use alldatadiy. I have been using them for years and you can buy a one year subscription for $16.95 and they are very good. You can zoom in and print them out . I am finishing up my 5.3 swap and the printouts are priceless for getting the circuits and wire colors. Well worth it.
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Thanks! I'd like to have the book, but that sounds pretty good also.
Rivman1243
SILVER Star
Would an electronic copy work for ya? I have a 96 EWD on pdf I got off mud somewhere. I could send it to you if you would like
I sent this to sgpipes but though I would throw it up here too in case my experience to date helps anyone
To recap my swap is an aluminum 2013 GenIV 5.3L/6L80E combo into a '96 LX450
When I bought my engine/trans combo from pacific fabrication it cam with a new custom made harness. I will post some pics of it. The reason I went with them was that the cost of the engine and harness was really good and the have great reviews and a following on pirate4x4.
I could not be happier with the harness they provided. They use a bussman sealed waterproof fuse box and all top notch metri pack connectors. I new I was mounting the ecm and fuse box under the hood so this was important to me. To make the engine run I only needed to power up one ignition wire from the new harness and connect one other wire to the fuel pump.
They also do just the harness so you can buy from them separately.
One thing to keep in mind, I learned this after and it took some time, was that the 6L80E trans does not have a provision for a neutal safety or back up light switch. If you saw my earlier post, I modified my stock shifter by adding a pair of B&M shifter micro switches for those functions. In order to make everything work I made all my wiring connection behind the glove box where the factory ecm used to live. By using the factory IL1 and IL2 plugs my new engine harness is easy to disconnect for removal if needed. I kept the original toyota engine harness that came out with the engine when those 2 IL1 and IL2 plugs were disconnected. With the original harness I stripped out every thing that was unused and just left the transfer case and speed sensor wiring. I am pleased with the way the electrical turned out. The engine bay is much cleaner and has far less wiring than before. Just a not about the fuel pump and system.
I spent a lot of time pouring over the factory wiring diagrams to see how to power the fuel pump. What i ended up doing was removing the toyota fuel pump resistor that is mounted to the fender where the antennae is. I then cut the plug off and used the wire that goes from there directly to the fuel pump. I attached a single gm weather pack plug on that wire and put the other end of that plug on the fuel pump feed from my new harness ( the new harness has the fuel pump relay and fuse built in so no need for any thing from toyota)
To finish the fuel system I used a corvette fuel filter with built in pressure regulator. This gives you the exaxt 58 psi that the LS engine needs and only runs one fuel line up to the engine, which is all the new Gen IV engines use anyway. Just to clarify, I only used the Toyota fuel pump and sending unit in the tank, in fact I never even took it out, just accessed through the floor plate under back seat. I ran all #6 AN hose and Russell fittings for the fuel lines. I removed all the Toyota lines except for the tank vent line up to the canister. I have not yet figured out how I am going to tie the canister in yet. The filter mounts on the inside the frame to an existing hole just in front of the gas tank.
I hope this helps.
To recap my swap is an aluminum 2013 GenIV 5.3L/6L80E combo into a '96 LX450
When I bought my engine/trans combo from pacific fabrication it cam with a new custom made harness. I will post some pics of it. The reason I went with them was that the cost of the engine and harness was really good and the have great reviews and a following on pirate4x4.
I could not be happier with the harness they provided. They use a bussman sealed waterproof fuse box and all top notch metri pack connectors. I new I was mounting the ecm and fuse box under the hood so this was important to me. To make the engine run I only needed to power up one ignition wire from the new harness and connect one other wire to the fuel pump.
They also do just the harness so you can buy from them separately.
One thing to keep in mind, I learned this after and it took some time, was that the 6L80E trans does not have a provision for a neutal safety or back up light switch. If you saw my earlier post, I modified my stock shifter by adding a pair of B&M shifter micro switches for those functions. In order to make everything work I made all my wiring connection behind the glove box where the factory ecm used to live. By using the factory IL1 and IL2 plugs my new engine harness is easy to disconnect for removal if needed. I kept the original toyota engine harness that came out with the engine when those 2 IL1 and IL2 plugs were disconnected. With the original harness I stripped out every thing that was unused and just left the transfer case and speed sensor wiring. I am pleased with the way the electrical turned out. The engine bay is much cleaner and has far less wiring than before. Just a not about the fuel pump and system.
I spent a lot of time pouring over the factory wiring diagrams to see how to power the fuel pump. What i ended up doing was removing the toyota fuel pump resistor that is mounted to the fender where the antennae is. I then cut the plug off and used the wire that goes from there directly to the fuel pump. I attached a single gm weather pack plug on that wire and put the other end of that plug on the fuel pump feed from my new harness ( the new harness has the fuel pump relay and fuse built in so no need for any thing from toyota)
To finish the fuel system I used a corvette fuel filter with built in pressure regulator. This gives you the exaxt 58 psi that the LS engine needs and only runs one fuel line up to the engine, which is all the new Gen IV engines use anyway. Just to clarify, I only used the Toyota fuel pump and sending unit in the tank, in fact I never even took it out, just accessed through the floor plate under back seat. I ran all #6 AN hose and Russell fittings for the fuel lines. I removed all the Toyota lines except for the tank vent line up to the canister. I have not yet figured out how I am going to tie the canister in yet. The filter mounts on the inside the frame to an existing hole just in front of the gas tank.
I hope this helps.
Well that didn't work out quit as planned. It still work out though. The adapter i bought was a hydaraulic adapter so the hole in the end where the coolant would flow was like 1/8". That was easily opened up to 1/4" (note the 12MM thread does not allow you to open it up large enough for the sensing bulb of the Toyota sender to fit through the treads) That brought me to the second problem,which was only slightly more difficult to solve. I needed to extent the adapter so the sender would screw into it without going into the area where the 12mm threads start. I you notice the marks adapter is quite long for this very reason. To solve it I picked up a 16mm x 1.5 nut and tig welded it to the end of the hydraulic adapter to extend it. It seals fine and seems to work as designed. It only cost $20 to make where as it would have cost me $75 to get it here from Mark's. I will post a pic
Thanks, do you happen to know the capacity of the fuel pump? I just assumed that it wouldn't be up to the demands of the the increased power.
Here is the latest update I received. Just about done with the exhaust.
As it stands right now , the stock pump is working fine and no fuel issues. I know there are people on here that have upgraded the intank pump to a larger unit. I will see if i can find the specs on the stock pump.
I am also running the stock pump. I assume it was the original. It had 165000 miles on it when I installed the ls, I have over 186000 miles on it now.. no problems.
I did a quick check of the specs i could find on rock auto. The toyota replacement pumps list a flow of 65 gph at max of 100psi
the gm pumps list anywhere from 70 to 85 gph at 90 psi max depending on what brand pump you look at. It should be adequate
the gm pumps list anywhere from 70 to 85 gph at 90 psi max depending on what brand pump you look at. It should be adequate
sweet!
I see a lot about LS swaps. Has anyone swapped in a TBI chevy and retained the original Toyota automatic transmission? Longetivity issues with the A440 transmission that is in my 91 FJ80? It has 248xxx miles on it and shifts as it should right now but I would get a rebuild while it was apart. Thanks!
