Check with @cruisermatt for OEM parts needs. He has been a huge help for me in getting a bunch of OEM parts and he’s in FL so shipping is better.
89 FJ62 - Just Picked Up - Noobie - Help
- Thread starter Ballzzz
- Start date
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Old Nick
GOLD Star
Grab your vin. Then go here: https://partsouq.com/
You'll be able to find the oem part numbers for everything on your 62.
- Thread starter
- #44
Amazing tool - THANK YOU
Both part #'s I found are correct.
Do you all suggest changing cap also or no need?
Old Nick
GOLD Star
Give everything a good clean. If the connections are sound, I don't think that changing it out is necessary. Of course, if you have the extra cash... go for it. Check the o-ring and dust gasket too (just did that on my wife's 80... new rubber never hurts).
- Thread starter
- #46
Forgive me if this seems basic, but im cleaning by looking or scraping off crud etc, look for cracks on cap, and should I spray or wipe with anything and let dry? I will understand this more I guess when I pull it out.
micruz60
Unleaded Regular
Replacement of wear items is encouraged - rotor and cap; check the resistance of the spark plug wires- if within spec than no need to replace them. It’s only money, right ?
- Thread starter
- #48
Ok so finally had a little time and weather was warm!
Plugs and wires are in. The original wires look like they are in great shape, so I at least have a spare original set. I’m sure I could have left them but 35 years old whynot give them a refresh. Dist cap was solid no cracks or any signs of wear I could tell. Rubber cover was in good shape and all buttoned back up.
Will try and do oil tomorrow and then start mapping out the next fluids to change via the fsm. Take a look at the braking system. Some rubber. A new battery and some prayers. Any advice is welcome.
Plugs and wires are in. The original wires look like they are in great shape, so I at least have a spare original set. I’m sure I could have left them but 35 years old whynot give them a refresh. Dist cap was solid no cracks or any signs of wear I could tell. Rubber cover was in good shape and all buttoned back up.
Will try and do oil tomorrow and then start mapping out the next fluids to change via the fsm. Take a look at the braking system. Some rubber. A new battery and some prayers. Any advice is welcome.
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- Thread starter
- #49
So... I obviously want to drain the fuel, but I dont have a working battery yet. Is there anyway to tell how much fuel I have to make sure I have enough tray's to catch the old sludge? If there is is 20+ gallons in there I guess I should just make sure I have at least 25 gallons of empty trays/buckets worst case scenario.
chances are the fuel level sender isn't going to work
tap on the tank and hear if it sounds hollow
you can move the carpet in the cargo area and remove the sender unit and see what it looks like inside the tank
the entire carpet doesn't need removed just the chrome strip along the tailgate and then fold it toward the rear seat
@Ballzzz , first off, all these guys have posted up n not one of them scoundrels have given you the official mud welcome so let me look after that short coming 
welcome 'board this crazy train of the toyotaly insane
way to get after it mister
i'd like to weigh in on spinning the engine over by hand, an old gearhead in my much younger day advised me to turn it thru 2 or 3 complete compression strokes on all cylinders with the plugs in. his theory on this was if they all felt alike, the basic health of the engine should be good. i.e., no burnt valves, or majorly broken rings. he'd found both with that test
if i recall correct, it's a 19mil on the crank pulley bolt.
there is no cure, but the therapy is awesome
welcome 'board this crazy train of the toyotaly insaneway to get after it mister
i'd like to weigh in on spinning the engine over by hand, an old gearhead in my much younger day advised me to turn it thru 2 or 3 complete compression strokes on all cylinders with the plugs in. his theory on this was if they all felt alike, the basic health of the engine should be good. i.e., no burnt valves, or majorly broken rings. he'd found both with that testif i recall correct, it's a 19mil on the crank pulley bolt.
there is no cure, but the therapy is awesome
- Thread starter
- #52
Thank you for the formal welcome, I’m sure there are many passerby’s so it takes a little time to be offered a drink round here. Speaking of which I owe you one my friend!@Ballzzz , first off, all these guys have posted up n not one of them scoundrels have given you the official mud welcome so let me look after that short coming
way to get after it mister
if i recall correct, it's a 19mil on the crank pulley bolt.
there is no cure, but the therapy is awesome
Tonight I did the oil and after I finally got the drain plug out the mighty oversized filter felt like it needed to stay on another 15 years. Well not on my watch I know these are trivial jobs for most but every successful completed job for me is a win and adding to my mental toolbox.
Now I need to figure out next steps, I think I should get some tires on her to help with ground clearance for future fluid jobs. Just need to define the list of fluid jobs. In my heart if I put a battery tomorrow she would turn over. I’m not looking to drive anywhere but I am optimistic she would come to life, I digress.
Look at this filter after our little soirée — lOl
- Thread starter
- #53
Not the best shots at night but I don’t think bad on the frame at least, body is another story.
Hi, I use a plastic kids swimming pool to drain the gas into.Then put it into other gas cans to dispose of. Personally I’d pour Mobil one 10w-30 ,about a couple of tablespoons full into each cylinder, let sit for a day ,get a 27 battery and fire it up.
If you fire it up in the garage, be careful of what the tailpipe is pointing at. I started my 60 after sitting nearly 20 years and you would not believe the rat turds, and acorn shells that came flying out. You may have some stuff in your muffler too.
- Thread starter
- #57
lOl no worries, shes outside at the moment. Thats the goal some rubber that holds air, some fresh gas, a new battery and see if she can purr. If so next step is see if she can limp into the garage lOl
D21FJ60
#LiveLaughLove.
Little late here and not sure if it is mentioned or a moot point, but w/ jackstands keep in mind the weight advertised is across both stands, so 3 ton = 1.5 ton per jack stand.
- Thread starter
- #59
So the fridgid winter seems to be throwing in the towel. We have been getting some sporadic 60+ days and I can finally get back to the old girl.
Thanks to @01LX470George who helped me source some wheels/tires on fb marketplace I gave her some dignity back! I didn’t want to leave the truck on jack stands to take the wheels to get used tires with the kids running around so this worked perfect. I finally got her off her knees after 15-20 years =)
The two front hub covers didn’t make there extraction. Are these needed? Are they purely aesthetic? The rears I’m going to clean up and I can put back once clean as they held up much better.
Next step is getting into the gas tank, draining and assessing condition. If I have to remove and clean etc I guess I will see how to go about if needed. Is there any easy test for the fuel pump functionality? I guess once drained and cleaned I can refill. Get a battery and say a prayer.
My goal is to get her to fire up and make sure anything else I tackle from a baseline or remediation point is not for a powerplant that is non functional.
Have to get the fsm out and see if there is much in fuel tank “maintenance”. Open to any suggestions at this stage or advice from those who have been in my shoes already.
Thanks guys happy to be back at it!
Thanks to @01LX470George who helped me source some wheels/tires on fb marketplace I gave her some dignity back! I didn’t want to leave the truck on jack stands to take the wheels to get used tires with the kids running around so this worked perfect. I finally got her off her knees after 15-20 years =)
The two front hub covers didn’t make there extraction. Are these needed? Are they purely aesthetic? The rears I’m going to clean up and I can put back once clean as they held up much better.
Next step is getting into the gas tank, draining and assessing condition. If I have to remove and clean etc I guess I will see how to go about if needed. Is there any easy test for the fuel pump functionality? I guess once drained and cleaned I can refill. Get a battery and say a prayer.
My goal is to get her to fire up and make sure anything else I tackle from a baseline or remediation point is not for a powerplant that is non functional.
Have to get the fsm out and see if there is much in fuel tank “maintenance”. Open to any suggestions at this stage or advice from those who have been in my shoes already.
Thanks guys happy to be back at it!
diesellibrarian
SILVER Star
The hub covers are cosmetic, and in fact it’s pretty rare to see them still in place on people’s rigs.
In terms of the tank, you can drain it by pulling the drain plug, but unfortunately that won’t give you much of an idea of what’s happening inside the tank. It’s likely that there’s a lot of crud in there, and/or the “sock” on the bottom of the pump is clogged and degraded. This is probably not the news you wanted to hear, but your best bet is to drop the tank, which is a pain in the a$$ job that will pay dividends in the long run. With the tank out, you can pull the pump and look inside to see what’s going on. If it doesn’t look terrible, you can dump a gallon of diesel in there and swish it around. I’ve also thrown in a short length of chain to loosen up the grime.
If it looks pretty nasty, take the tank to a rad shop and have it hot tanked. It will come back in shiny bare metal, but perfectly clean. You’ll need to paint it, of course, but there will be no worries about rust clogging your fuel system.
To remove the tank, you need to remove the sway bar hangers. Try not to break the bolts as they are welded to the hangers and are difficult to replace - ask me how I know.
In terms of the tank, you can drain it by pulling the drain plug, but unfortunately that won’t give you much of an idea of what’s happening inside the tank. It’s likely that there’s a lot of crud in there, and/or the “sock” on the bottom of the pump is clogged and degraded. This is probably not the news you wanted to hear, but your best bet is to drop the tank, which is a pain in the a$$ job that will pay dividends in the long run. With the tank out, you can pull the pump and look inside to see what’s going on. If it doesn’t look terrible, you can dump a gallon of diesel in there and swish it around. I’ve also thrown in a short length of chain to loosen up the grime.
If it looks pretty nasty, take the tank to a rad shop and have it hot tanked. It will come back in shiny bare metal, but perfectly clean. You’ll need to paint it, of course, but there will be no worries about rust clogging your fuel system.
To remove the tank, you need to remove the sway bar hangers. Try not to break the bolts as they are welded to the hangers and are difficult to replace - ask me how I know.
