5. No. I’m kinda of a purist too. But the Saginaw wins in every way. IF! You get snow I’ll come through Dro, we can meet at SKa and you can feel the difference on mine.
87 FJ60 - "Willie" "The Beast" Build Thread (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Rusto
- Start date
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Durango, nice, neat little town. Went there for the first time last year. Going back again this year and going to try to hit the Solid Axle Summit this year.
I should have known better and the Number one mistake I made with my 60 was not getting it in order before any add ons.
Stick to your list above, BUT put in a rebuilt steering gearbox. Once you fix that pump, it is bound to leak.
I would take the 4K and get it in order fix all he little things, bad rubber, leaks, do the galley pug if you have not yet, get the carb rebuilt by Jim (he will configure it for your area)
IF you have any cash left over then go with the ARB and winch as you are remote as you said and using a highlift and or digging yourself out sucks.
Shop around on the Carpet and seat covers. I have SOR foam and Cruiser corp covers and really like them. @dnp has a good kit from Auto Custom Carpet. It is nice, I will be fitting mine this weekend. New late-model FJ60 and FJ62 carpet and mats FINALLY available!
Headlights $150-200 with wiring
Turn Signals and tail light about 100-150 (I think)
Interior Carpet, seats and foam just over 1K
Carb 350-400 ish
PS Pump 350
PS gearbox rebuild 250
Steering referb 120
That is about $2120
If you went ARB $850, other make from bumpers to (4plus) so adjust for this cost,
Winch (something decent) Superwinch has a good price on there X9 but figure 600-800 with Sythentic
that puts you at about 3700
Take that 300 and do the little things (rubber seals, maybe shoulder belts for the rear, better radio who knows)
the money goes away fast. But you would have a better and sorted rig. than dumping it on one or two items.
I am sure you could get some items cheaper but really your still in that range give or take 100-200.
if you do the PS gearbox yourself you can get that price down by a fair bit. the PS pump, I do not believe can be rebuilt.
Couldn't agree with Willard more...
It really comes down to this:
Do you want a good, trustable foundation to build on top of?
or
Do you want it to look great first and fix things as they arise?
The 5spd is identical to the 4spd if the truck's broke.
It really comes down to this:
Do you want a good, trustable foundation to build on top of?
or
Do you want it to look great first and fix things as they arise?
The 5spd is identical to the 4spd if the truck's broke.
...oh yeah and RE: doing the windshield...don't bother if the crack
isn't directly in your view.
2 kinds of windshields in Durango...cracked and "replaced yesterday"
isn't directly in your view.
2 kinds of windshields in Durango...cracked and "replaced yesterday"
Boss Hog
Cutty say he can’t HANG!!
It really comes down to this:
Do you want a good, trustable foundation to build on top of?
or
Do you want it to look great first and fix things as they arise?
The 5spd is identical to the 4spd if the truck's broke.
Truly wise words. Agree 1000%. Very logical...well, as logical as one can be owning a 60...
x2 on the Saginaw conversion. This plus a rebuilt gearbox and it'll drive like new!
That is a great mod. Saginaw is superior.
cwwfj60
Supporting Vendor
Coming from experience in this dilemma, I spent way too much time building my truck and not enough time enjoying it, I highly recommend getting your mechanicals in order then take off on a 2-4 week trip...save that money for gas and supplies 
Mine had been in my garage for a year because of exactly the same issue you had.Coming from experience in this dilemma, I spent way too much time building my truck and not enough time enjoying it, I highly recommend getting your mechanicals in order then take off on a 2-4 week trip...save that money for gas and supplies
Build, change, build, change.
I should have just done what Rusto had on his list above.
One thing I would add is making sure all brake lines are solid. Especially at any clamp locations. May look ok, but move that rusted clamp and you could find a leak.
Replacing these front to back is mainly labor as parts are under $100.
Rusto
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #50
This has been an awesome, inspirational thread. Thank you all for your participation and knowledgeable insight. I'm not going to get an H55f (sorry Boss Hog!). I can't justify the spend when my 4speed works just fine.
I keep up on my fluids and don't want to spend any of this bonus money on regular upkeep stuff.
When i bought the 60, it was in such good shape that I thought of doing a full-on "all Toyota" rolling restoration. Then I realized that I will always want to have this vehicle, so functionality, reliability, driveability, etc. became my call to arms. So now, a Saginaw steering upgrade, aftermarket seats (SOR foam and Cool Cruiser covers is leading contender), etc.
I'm with Willard (thanks for the estimates!) and Trapper 50 cal. Get it dialed in mechanically (it's pretty damn close already), treat myself with a pristine interior, and then see where I'm at that point.
I do have some clear coat failure (assuming Stardust Silver has a clear coat - horribly difficult to confirm) on my roof in a couple of spots, and the hood. I do like the patina in general - the worn thumb print above the driver's side door handle for example - but would love to eliminate the clear coat failure look. Right now, I'm just finding time to buff the hell out of everything and get it as shiny as possible.
I just sold our third vehicle in the family, so I won't have to worry about not driving my rig.
I was following the new carpet thread as well, and will most likely be dropping a dime on that.
I keep up on my fluids and don't want to spend any of this bonus money on regular upkeep stuff.
When i bought the 60, it was in such good shape that I thought of doing a full-on "all Toyota" rolling restoration. Then I realized that I will always want to have this vehicle, so functionality, reliability, driveability, etc. became my call to arms. So now, a Saginaw steering upgrade, aftermarket seats (SOR foam and Cool Cruiser covers is leading contender), etc.
I'm with Willard (thanks for the estimates!) and Trapper 50 cal. Get it dialed in mechanically (it's pretty damn close already), treat myself with a pristine interior, and then see where I'm at that point.
I do have some clear coat failure (assuming Stardust Silver has a clear coat - horribly difficult to confirm) on my roof in a couple of spots, and the hood. I do like the patina in general - the worn thumb print above the driver's side door handle for example - but would love to eliminate the clear coat failure look. Right now, I'm just finding time to buff the hell out of everything and get it as shiny as possible.
I just sold our third vehicle in the family, so I won't have to worry about not driving my rig.
I was following the new carpet thread as well, and will most likely be dropping a dime on that.
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Great plan
See if Fast Eddie is still doing paint work, he may be retired by now...
He has a shop out in Rafter J.
He could match w/o clear, I imagine.
See if Fast Eddie is still doing paint work, he may be retired by now...
He has a shop out in Rafter J.
He could match w/o clear, I imagine.
Boss Hog
Cutty say he can’t HANG!!
Hey-I was just playing with YOUR money! I think you’re doing the right thing. Besides, I have the EXACT same dilemma. I’m catching up on deferred maintenance & a clutch myself...
Still, a 5-speed wouldbe be pretty sweet...
Rusto
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #54
well, after confirming the back seat isn't original in this thread..One of these seats is not like the other (thanks Mudders), and having my power steering grown tremendously in the single digit cold, my list is beginning to coalesce.
1. SOR foam for front seats with new vinyl all around - $1,150 (OUCH!)
2. New carpet (only need cargo, wheel arch covers and tailgate - hopefully I can partner up with somebody that needs the front) - $400ish
3. Sound deadener (why not, while replacing the carpet) - $150
3. Saginaw Power Steering Pump upgrade and box rebuild - $500?
4. Carb rebuild - $450
5. New Dorman Window Regulators for the front $80
6. Front End Refurb - $100
That puts me at close to $2,800 and I'll have a smooth running, tight steering, good looking (at least on the inside, and that's where it counts), solid rig.
my galley plug doesn't leak but I'll save some to do that next time I adjust my valves.
I would like to be a little vain and get the hood and roof painted to match, as that's all that really needs it. We'll see.
First parts will be ordered this week! Need to talk to Jim C. tomorrow about the car rebuild.
Thanks again all.
1. SOR foam for front seats with new vinyl all around - $1,150 (OUCH!)
2. New carpet (only need cargo, wheel arch covers and tailgate - hopefully I can partner up with somebody that needs the front) - $400ish
3. Sound deadener (why not, while replacing the carpet) - $150
3. Saginaw Power Steering Pump upgrade and box rebuild - $500?
4. Carb rebuild - $450
5. New Dorman Window Regulators for the front $80
6. Front End Refurb - $100
That puts me at close to $2,800 and I'll have a smooth running, tight steering, good looking (at least on the inside, and that's where it counts), solid rig.
my galley plug doesn't leak but I'll save some to do that next time I adjust my valves.
I would like to be a little vain and get the hood and roof painted to match, as that's all that really needs it. We'll see.
First parts will be ordered this week! Need to talk to Jim C. tomorrow about the car rebuild.
Thanks again all.
Looks like a solid list!
Looks like a solid list!
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
You can do your own carb rebuild over a couple of days, one to disassemble and put in the ChemDip, a second to rinse/dry and reassemble the parts. The rebuild kit will only run you $27.50 plus shipping from Cruiser Outfitters. That'll free up $400+ for other upgrades.
Rusto
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #59
I hear you on the interior, but it will be completely done, forever (We'll, there's a better console to be had) but for the most part, I can check the interior off e list for good.
Good idea on the carb rebuild. But Jim C is the guru. I'd always doubt I had it perfect
Did I tell you my wife is pretty bad ass for being okayvwitj all this? Well she is.
Good idea on the carb rebuild. But Jim C is the guru. I'd always doubt I had it perfect
Did I tell you my wife is pretty bad ass for being okayvwitj all this? Well she is.
I also agree that the price is crazy, but it keeps it stockish and looking nice. Otherwise you could put in a set of aftermarket seats and reupholster the rears to match, but by the time you finish doing this you are about the same price.
A few suggestions on the seats if you do it yourself.
1. take your time
2. paint the frames while the covers and foam is off.
3. get this tool https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NOYRVG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 it will save you time, and headaches.
4. Get some extra hog rings
Other than that it is rather easy to do. I did the front and backs of mine.
For the center console i skipped the Tuffy and ended up with this
Quadratec® 13104.01 iVault® Security Floor Console in Black for 76-95 Jeep® CJ & Wrangler YJ fits perfectly between the seats.
give you an idea.
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