87 FJ60 - "Willie" "The Beast" Build Thread (1 Viewer)

[Rusto]

Should harness installed. Wifey will be a lot happier next time my 7-year-old is in the back seat with me. I will be, too. I went with the non-retractable as she's the only one that really rides back there, and if others do, they can adjust it pretty easily. Reminds me of my old '69 Firebird that had a 'two-point' harness. One seat belt for shoulder, and one for lap. I had to undo the shoulder belt to change the radio station. Ha. I digress. It looks good feels secure and I'll be doing the other side as soon as I get the other seat belt delivered.

 

[Rusto]

Replaced pushrod cover gasket on one side while resurfacing warped manifold and using remflex gaskets on gasket between manifolds, head-to-manifold gasket and egr downtube gasket. Fixed at least 4 exhaust leaks in the process.

Runs so smooth and quiet now.

 

[Rusto]

It's been a while since this had a post. I've done a couple of things, but not much since I picked up my 75 BJ40. And then my 2013 200.

This old girl just wasn't cutting it as my daily driver AND project car considering my "daily drives" now sometimes include trips to Vail, Santa Fe, Ouray, Moab, Sedona, etc.
I would have loved to drop another $30k-$40k and turn it into an amazing resto-mod so that it could be a modern-ish, comfortable, long haul cruiser, but that would be a lot of time I don't have. Ergo, the 200 Series. Life throws changes at you didn't see coming at you all the time, so it became time to sell The Beast.

From my first fly and drive from Dallas to Durango 8 years ago, to various camping and hunting trips across the SW, oft times pulling a pop-up camper over Wolf Creek Pass, Molas and Coal Bank, all kinds of forest service roads and 4WD passes, it has been one helluva ride. I always felt confident, no matter where I was going, the condition of the road or the weather, or how long the trip was, that The Beast was up for the challenge. And she was. It's the really the only vehicle (besides the 40) that my kids have ever known. They've shared in these adventures. And it started my love affair/addiction with Land Cruisers that I will take to the grave!

Once I decided to sell it, I had to give my cousin @mapguy the right of first refusal, per our family obligations. He sold me an old Nova years ago, and I sold him an 84 Toyota PU that he still had. When I told him the news, he tried to be sympathetic to my plight while having a Cheshire cat grin on that big mug of his. Not an easy task. He sold the RN60 (after offering to sell it to me, per the regs), we agreed on a price, and The Beast has been passed on to @mapguy.

He did his own fly and drive just this past weekend; this time flying into Durango and taking it back to SoCal, from whence it came. Still just a two family truck with 190k+ miles, with original paint and about as close to rust free you can get. All the smog equipment, and glass save for the new windshield. As my cousin said, "We're only stewards".

My wife is happy that 75% of our vehicles aren't LCs, my kids are happy that they'll get to go visit the Beast from time-to-time, and I'm happy that I get to focus my resources and very precious time on the 40, while DD'ing my 200. And my cousin is happy as well, as who wouldn't be with a 87 FJ60 new to the fleet.

With that, I pass this thread over to @mapguy and I slink off to update my signature. I'll knock around the 60 forum from time to time, but if you need me, I'll be in the 40 and 200 forums

Russ

 

[mapguy]

Thanks Cuz!

Happy to have it. I'm not nearly as good as you are about online forums, but I will try to update this with the work I plan to do. I need to get the smog equipment sorted out and get the poltergeist out of the power steering first, then same updates I learned on the RN60.

I'll take good care!

 

[mapguy]

Well howdy again. I wanted to make a quick post and update the leaky power steering situation. It's fixed. I got a new pump from Napa. I can't remember the part number, but when I cross-listed the pump @orangefj45 recommended, it came up for a 1978 Chevy pickup with a 350, so that's what I ordered. It fit great, with a slightly longer and more bent return line nipple. I was able to straighten the return nipple out with a tubing bender so it actually works better now than the one I took off.

FYI for saginaw folks - invest a couple Jacksons in a pulley puller for PS pumps. I got one from Amazon in a blow-molded case for like 35 bucks. Having the right tool makes this job much much easier. If you take the pulley off with the puller with the pump still mounted, you don't have to remove the bracket from the block. Much easier and less time consuming. For install, just install the pump, then use the tool to install the pulley. It has the advantage of allowing you to align the pulley with the other pulleys shared with the belt. I just eyeballed it, but I'm happy with it. Another plus is the pulley tool does not put undue pressure on the pump shaft, so there is no danger of breaking vanes or otherwise damaging the pump when you install it.

I also replaced both the pressure and return lines with the kit from @orangefj45 and they fit great. The return line is a tad on the tight side, especially on the pump return nipple, but better too tight than too loose. Giggity. You have to use the clamps supplied as the super cool Toyota factory PS return hose clamps are too big. Slight bummer.

I saw the thread where folks were struggling with getting the saginaw on and off and keeping it from leaking. Just use the right tools and do not use o-rings on the pressure fittings. In my experience, hydraulic fittings of the type on the PS lines don't need them and they just cause leaks.

Anyway, the steering is now butter smooth and fully sorted and leak free. On to sort out other little leaks and issues. I'll do my best to keep the thread going. As previously mentioned, I kinda suck at the forums thing. I don't have just a whole lot of free time between work and kids and girlfriend, and I much prefer to spend it actually out in the garage wrenching.

Future plans - Smog system refresh, registration, h55f, paint restoration, correct the lean, fix the AC. Not necessarily in that order.

 

[orangefj45]

Well howdy again. I wanted to make a quick post and update the leaky power steering situation. It's fixed. I got a new pump from Napa. I can't remember the part number, but when I cross-listed the pump @orangefj45 recommended, it came up for a 1978 Chevy pickup with a 350, so that's what I ordered. It fit great, with a slightly longer and more bent return line nipple. I was able to straighten the return nipple out with a tubing bender so it actually works better now than the one I took off.

FYI for saginaw folks - invest a couple Jacksons in a pulley puller for PS pumps. I got one from Amazon in a blow-molded case for like 35 bucks. Having the right tool makes this job much much easier. If you take the pulley off with the puller with the pump still mounted, you don't have to remove the bracket from the block. Much easier and less time consuming. For install, just install the pump, then use the tool to install the pulley. It has the advantage of allowing you to align the pulley with the other pulleys shared with the belt. I just eyeballed it, but I'm happy with it. Another plus is the pulley tool does not put undue pressure on the pump shaft, so there is no danger of breaking vanes or otherwise damaging the pump when you install it.

I also replaced both the pressure and return lines with the kit from @orangefj45 and they fit great. The return line is a tad on the tight side, especially on the pump return nipple, but better too tight than too loose. Giggity. You have to use the clamps supplied as the super cool Toyota factory PS return hose clamps are too big. Slight bummer.

I saw the thread where folks were struggling with getting the saginaw on and off and keeping it from leaking. Just use the right tools and do not use o-rings on the pressure fittings. In my experience, hydraulic fittings of the type on the PS lines don't need them and they just cause leaks.

Anyway, the steering is now butter smooth and fully sorted and leak free. On to sort out other little leaks and issues. I'll do my best to keep the thread going. As previously mentioned, I kinda suck at the forums thing. I don't have just a whole lot of free time between work and kids and girlfriend, and I much prefer to spend it actually out in the garage wrenching.

Future plans - Smog system refresh, registration, h55f, paint restoration, correct the lean, fix the AC. Not necessarily in that order.

Glad it all worked out!!!!!

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers

 

[mapguy]

Totally did, George. Thanks for all the support. One other thing to add to my 60 to-dos: Front knuckle rebuild. That might be next actually. The driver side knuckle is a shambles.

 

[orangefj45]

Totally did, George. Thanks for all the support. One other thing to add to my 60 to-dos: Front knuckle rebuild. That might be next actually. The driver side knuckle is a shambles.

We can certainly help with that as well, we have EVERYTHING in stock to rebuild your knuckles.

Thanks again!!!!

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers

 

[craigrou]

Hey guys, about to do the Saginaw pump conversion but wasnt sure about the need for reducing the pressure to prevent the "twitchy" highway characteristics? I have read the thread here LS Swap: GM P-pump to Toyota Steering Box - Flow Control Fitting - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ls-swap-gm-p-pump-to-toyota-steering-box-flow-control-fitting.1229238/, but it doesnt seem definitive as to if its a must. Wanted to get the parts installed before I screw it all together. Just was curious if you had any opinions!? Steering box was just rebuilt and I run 32" tires.

Thanks!

 

[orangefj45]

Hey guys, about to do the Saginaw pump conversion but wasnt sure about the need for reducing the pressure to prevent the "twitchy" highway characteristics? I have read the thread here LS Swap: GM P-pump to Toyota Steering Box - Flow Control Fitting - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ls-swap-gm-p-pump-to-toyota-steering-box-flow-control-fitting.1229238/, but it doesnt seem definitive as to if its a must. Wanted to get the parts installed before I screw it all together. Just was curious if you had any opinions!? Steering box was just rebuilt and I run 32" tires.

Thanks!

Given the long wheelbase of the 60-series, it’s not necessary.

 

[mapguy]

@craigrou I haven’t noticed any twitchiness at all with the saginaw pump. It’s super smooth.

Only issue I have is the belt needs to be a little tighter than I would prefer to prevent squeaking when cold.

 

[craigrou]

Thanks guys thats super helpful. Will go for the install as is!

 

[mapguy]

Long overdue for an update on this. I have spent the past few weekends rebuilding the knuckles which turned into a major rebuild of the front axle. I had the diff gone through by my awesome transmission guy and replaced the crush sleeve with a spacer.

I also found the soft brake lines were shot and so were replaced with Toyota units. Knuckle rebuild kit, rebuilt brake calipers, and fresh pads.

Birfs were in excellent shape, and got fresh grease. The driver side was just a mess of gear oil and grease mixture. Glad that’s done.

Also added a leaf to the driver side leaf pack to try and help with the lean, which was very prominent on this truck. Also an engine oil change and a few other bits and bobs. Ran out of gas tonight, but will di the victory lap tomorrow for sure.

The truck is growing on me. Totally overbuilt, I love it.

 

[mapguy]

More progress today. Willie had the cough and lung butter stumble that there is even a sticky about. Also a slight tick of an exhaust leak every since I picked it up in Durango and drove it home. Tonight I fixed both in about 5 mins. I first plugged the 2 output hoses from the EGR vacuum modulator and the inputs to the EGR valve. I then cranked up and went for a spin.

Wow!! It was like a different truck! EGR was clearly the problem. I was so pleased with the new found performance I didn't think to listen for the exhaust leak, but I didn't notice it like I usually do, so to me that means it wasn't there.

Anyway, I had a new Toyota modulator valve that I bought on the auction site a while back, so I swapped it out real quick and back around town for a bit. Hesitation still gone. A drop-off in performance, but that just tells me that the EGR system is working properly now. Performance was fine once it warmed up which was when it would hesitate the worst before. Also no more exhaust leak tick.

I honestly have no idea why it fixed the tick other than maybe sorting the janky vacuum mod out sorted out other vacuum-actuated things like the AIS bits. Who knows, all I know is it's fixed. Scratch those off the list!

I'm going to make a cross-post to the sticky on the hesitation problem. I had the same exact thing on my '84 pickup 22R and swapping the modulator fixed that too.

Part number for the mod I got: 25870-66001

Listed for 80 series, works like a champ on a 60 series.

 

[mapguy]

Work continues and I am on to one of my least favorite jobs - re-fixing a problem I’ve already fixed. The cheap napa ps pump started leaking like crazy.

I had the rig in front of the house and noticed a piddle in the street and when I investigated - ps fluid. Dammit!!

Anyway, I got it in the garage and pulled the pump. I tried another cheap one from the FLAPS, but it was the wrong configuration. Ordered one online, also the wrong configuration. Had to return both. Giant PITA. So I took the leaky pump with the correct configuration to California Rebuilt Exchange in Moreno Valley. I use their store in Ontario all the time and they do quality work. This is the last chance for the saginaw conversion though. I also ordered a rebuilt kit for the original pump from partsgeek and will rebuild that to have at the ready. If this rebuilt pump leaks again, I’m pulling the plug on the saginaw conversion.

The good news in all of this is that while the Beast is in the garage, I pretty much finished baselining it. Fluids changed, all soft brake lines have now been replaced, the calipers rebuilt and new teq wheel cylinders installed. Rebuilt pump should be done today, and after that’s installed I’m on to the engine. I need to sort out the AIS, EGR, and the rest of the really fun vacuum and electrical gizmos.

Thanks for listening and for all the inspiration here on MUD. I feel like I’ve passed some kind of initiation rebuilding the front axle, and I am now officially a cruiser head. Maybe Russ will sell me that BJ40… hmmm.

 

[mapguy]

Oh yeah, while Amazon had the Prime whatzit last week I got a deal on some Cooper Evolution M/Ts. They are now mounted and I am digging the more aggressive look.

 

[mapguy]

Just heard back from CRE about my saginaw pump. They are going to replace the chinese POS pump with a rebuilt original GM pump and use the same reservoir to keep the config correct. Should be ready tomorrow AM. Can’t say enough about California Rebuilt Exchange. They have always been excellent. Hopefully this sorts the problem out for good. Will post again once it is installed.

 

[mapguy]

Pump is installed and so far is dry for a first couple trips around the block. Well, not the first trip, but the second one it was. I got back from the first and was about to start throwing tools when I saw the smog pump covered in ATF. Thankfully, I saw it was leaking from the pressure line. I cinched down an extra gutenteit on it and it stopped. Thank goodness.

I am relieved, but ask me in a year if I am satisfied. I can’t say enough about CRE though. They are not paying me in any way, they are just a ray of hope in a world of crappy parts and clueless parts counter people. Can’t recommend them enough. I will take a quality rebuild on a factory piece all day long over a new dump-in-a-box marked guaranteed. Yes, they are more expensive. Yes, they are totally worth it.