Builds 85 fj60 6.0 4l80e swap (1 Viewer)

[fj60lorado]

I high-pressure fitting in the Type 2 Saginaw pumps (what you have) isn't flared, it's an O-ring.
The Pressure fitting in the steering box is an inverted flare though.
I recommend getting adapters to -6AN for the box and pump and just running an AN or JIC style pressure hose. That way you don't have a custom hose to replace in the future.
16mm flare for the box and 16mm O-ring for the pump. You can get the O-ring adapter anywhere easily, the 16mm Toyota flare adapter is a bit less common, I think I got mine from PSC.

Sweet I have a bunch of an fittings laying around. I dig through them. Pretty sure I have some 16mm from a 2jz build

 

[yukon721]

I do indeed have the 2500 pump. The top is just a return from what would be the hydroboost right? Was thinking about mounting the toyota ps can up top and running into that for extra fluid if that’s even possible.

Should have 3 hard lines coming out of PS Pump. The top one is the hydro-boost. I just capped it off. In addition you should have a hydro-boost plastic nipple on back of motor. That nipple can be replaced with a regular nipple off LS motors that never had hydroboost. Then run vacuum hose to your brake master cylinder hard line from that. Its explained with photos in my thread link at bottom if thats the route you wish to go (Page 13). My motor is a LQ9 - but should be very similar.

 

[fj60lorado]

So I’m hooking up the alternator. Did you guys just use the white charge wire from the original harness?

 

[cruisermatt]

You have a 4-pin connector right? You just need the single exciter wire for the PCM. I don’t know what color it is.

 

[fj60lorado]

You have a 4-pin connector right? You just need the single exciter wire for the PCM. I don’t know what color it is.

Yeah have the 4 pin plugged in but wasnt sure on the exciter

 

[fj60lorado]

You have a 4-pin connector right? You just need the single exciter wire for the PCM. I don’t know what color it is.

Crap scratch that, it’s only a 2pin from the pcm to the alt. Kinda stumped on that.

 

[FJ60Cam]

Which alternator is it? What’s stamped on the case?

 

[fj60lorado]

Which alternator is it? What’s stamped on the case?

I left the shop so I’ll have to check tomorrow. I know it’s the small case alt tho

 

[fj60lorado]

Which alternator is it? What’s stamped on the case?

It’s the Delphi 105

 

[fj60lorado]

Does anybody have a pick of the the original Chevy alternator plug? My 4 pin doesn’t have the L I and S markings. My harness only has a black and red in it, so I’m guessing I need to put the yellow and black/yellow from the original harness in the 4 pin as well as hook up the large white to the alt lug?

 

[FJ60Cam]

Does the alternator plug have markings?

 

[cruisermatt]

Are you using an aftermarket harness or a factory harness?
Does the harness you are using have a 2-pin or 4-pin connector?
The only Toyota wire you should need to connect to the Chevy alternator is the main charge wire.

 

[fj60lorado]

Are you using an aftermarket harness or a factory harness?
Does the harness you are using have a 2-pin or 4-pin connector?
The only Toyota wire you should need to connect to the Chevy alternator is the main charge wire.

I’m using the fitech harness and the alternator plug is a 4-pin with only two wires. Sorry my brain was exhaust the other night haha sure you know the pain. Wasn’t sure if I needed the other two wires from the toyota harness as well.

 

[fj60lorado]

Does the alternator plug have markings?

The fitech harness isn’t marked like the stock Chevy harness

 

[FJ60Cam]

Check the plug in the alternator itself. They are usually marked.

You can use your old alternator wiring to provide a sense voltage and operate the charge light in the dash.

 

[yukon721]

My truck had 3 wires coming out of the FJ alternator Plug. I had both the yellow, Black w/ yellow stripe and a white one (which looks like you dont have)

Then had a red, a black and a large white coming off battery + terminal. The large white went to alt lug on the FJ alternator.

In the end I deleted the white that went from Battery to alternator lug. I also deleted both the yellow & black w/yellow that you have above. Then ran the original red, black and alt plug white - (The white that you're missing above to Battery + terminal) So 3 wires to Battery Terminal on mine.

The white one that I don't see in your picture operates brake lights, tail lights and about 10 other items.

 

[cruisermatt]

Wait, that’s a 4-pin alternator. I thought you said you had a 2-pin alternator. I don’t understand what the issue is now.

Your new harness plugs into your alternator.

Bolt the main alternator power wire from the Toyota body harness (the one that was attached to the Toyota alternator) to the new alternator. Done.

 

[fj60lorado]

Wait, that’s a 4-pin alternator. I thought you said you had a 2-pin alternator. I don’t understand what the issue is now.

Your new harness plugs into your alternator.

Bolt the main alternator power wire from the Toyota body harness (the one that was attached to the Toyota alternator) to the new alternator. Done.

Yeah sorry about that. My brain was dead and meant two wires. That’s what I thought, just wanted to confirm. Thanks a bunch!

 

[cruisermatt]

You had me pretty frazzled because I thought you were going to try to use a 2-pin alternator, which are externally regulated by the PCM to provide appropriate voltages for the Chevy body electrics. Everything I've read says to avoid the 2-pin alternators and use the 4-pin which are internally regulated.
You should be good to go.
Now you just need to go buy a 145-amp alternator and it will bolt in to your set up. Look for one with the black ring between the two case halves. I just posted a picture in my thread of my 145 amp alternator, I won't clog your thread up with my pictures.

 

[fj60lorado]

You had me pretty frazzled because I thought you were going to try to use a 2-pin alternator, which are externally regulated by the PCM to provide appropriate voltages for the Chevy body electrics. Everything I've read says to avoid the 2-pin alternators and use the 4-pin which are internally regulated.
You should be good to go.
Now you just need to go buy a 145-amp alternator and it will bolt in to your set up. Look for one with the black ring between the two case halves. I just posted a picture in my thread of my 145 amp alternator, I won't clog your thread up with my pictures.

Haha sorry about that. So that last thing I need is to solder in the brake switch ground signal for the pcm before I fire it up but I’ve been through the fsm three times and can’t find the pin out and wire color schematic. Ugh. I’m going to name this thing after a cursed pirate ship from all the fighting back it’s been giving me...