Builds 85 fj60 6.0 4l80e swap

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Curious what adapter are you using to mate the trans to the transfer case? I used an Advanced Adapter. Doesn't look like mine at all. Maybe its different for 4l80e vs 4l60e?
 
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I’m using the advanced adapter. It sucked bad tho. Lots of work to make it work. You have a picture of yours? Would like to see the difference. Did you have to modify the from cv like me on the 4l80?
Curious what adapter are you using to mate the trans to the transfer case? I used an Advanced Adapter. Doesn't look like mine at all. Maybe its different for 4l80e vs 4l60e?
 
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You realize that transfer case shifter is not going to be even close to the stock floor hole if you positioned your motor in the engine bay correctly right? You want the motor as far back in the engine bay as it can go, and then some more (sledge hammer to passenger side firewall works well).
Good call on the Contour fans, mine work great with a stock 60 radiator. FITech can trigger fans, right?
I realize that it’s fits perfectly in the hole because I know how to use a tape measure...
Yes fitech can trigger two fans through the ecu
 

cruisermatt

let's go wheeling
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I realize that it’s fits perfectly in the hole because I know how to use a tape measure...
Yes fitech can trigger two fans through the ecu
If that’s where your transfer case is going to be then how is your motor not into the radiator? Do you have a picture of the motor in the engine bay?

I’d recommend you set fans to come on at around 200 and 205. These motors have something like a 185 or 190 degree thermostat, and my water temp barely ever hits 200 (sitting at traffic light in 100 degree temps). I had initially set them for like 175 and 185 and they just ran constantly.
 
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If that’s where your transfer case is going to be then how is your motor not into the radiator? Do you have a picture of the motor in the engine bay?

I’d recommend you set fans to come on at around 200 and 205. These motors have something like a 185 or 190 degree thermostat, and my water temp barely ever hits 200 (sitting at traffic light in 100 degree temps). I had initially set them for like 175 and 185 and they just ran constantly.

Hey Matt - did you take a look at his adapter? Its way shorter than ours (or at least mine) That may be why he doesn't need an extended linkage?
 
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I’m using the advanced adapter. It sucked bad tho. Lots of work to make it work. You have a picture of yours? Would like to see the difference. Did you have to modify the from cv like me on the 4l80?
Here is a pic of mine.. Prob a better pic of it in my build thread.. But it looks longer than what I'm seeing on yours. I'm sure a 4L80e has different characteristics than my 4L60e. The reason I mentioned something was because on mine I did have to extend my 4WD shift linkage like Matt mentioned. Figured yours doesn't need to be extended due a different adapter utilized. Perhaps?

9949EC23-C503-40B0-9261-62E9BEEE8A52.jpeg
 
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cruisermatt

let's go wheeling
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The cookie cutter setup that most guys run is the 4L65e which has a shorter pan and far less overall size towards the tailhousing then the 4L80e

I have a completely different drivetrain setup.
That billet plate between his cast adapter and splitcase reminds me a lot of the adapter between my splitcase and 203 doubler.
 
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I realize that it’s fits perfectly in the hole because I know how to use a tape measure...
If that’s where your transfer case is going to be then how is your motor not into the radiator? Do you have a picture of the motor in the engine bay?

I’d recommend you set fans to come on at around 200 and 205. These motors have something like a 185 or 190 degree thermostat, and my water temp barely ever hits 200 (sitting at traffic light in 100 degree temps). I had initially set them for like 175 and 185 and they just ran constantly.
nice good to know, thanks. Have 5” from radiator to water pump which is plenty for the contour fan to fit
 
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Here is a pic of mine.. Prob a better pic of it in my build thread.. But it looks longer than what I'm seeing on yours. I'm sure a 4L80e has different characteristics than my 4L60e. The reason I mentioned something was because on mine I did have to extend my 4WD shift linkage like Matt mentioned. Figured yours doesn't need to be extended due a different adapter utilized. Perhaps?

View attachment 1847653
Yeah the 4l80 is a few inches longer than the 4l60 so the the adapter is stubbier
 
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The cookie cutter setup that most guys run is the 4L65e which has a shorter pan and far less overall size towards the tailhousing then the 4L80e

I have a completely different drivetrain setup.
That billet plate between his cast adapter and splitcase reminds me a lot of the adapter between my splitcase and 203 doubler.
I see why people don’t go with the 4l80. The pan is way to wide for the advanced adapter. They need to fix that or quick selling it as an option in my opinion.
 
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Messages
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The cookie cutter setup that most guys run is the 4L65e which has a shorter pan and far less overall size towards the tailhousing then the 4L80e

I have a completely different drivetrain setup.
That billet plate between his cast adapter and splitcase reminds me a lot of the adapter between my splitcase and 203 doubler.
Wish I didn’t have a built rear passenger drop axle and a 4to1 in this or I would have went atlas and a dynatrac resr end.
 
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4:1 T-case gears with a 6.0 and auto will be niiice. 4:1 gears are on my short list for sure even with my doubler.
After my atlas I had in my LJ even 4:1 with the split case feels kinda clunky but it definitely helps a lot out wheeling.
 
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Got the everything hooked up on the motor. I need to run the tranny and oil cooler, mount the alternator and PS back up and do the fan and radiator. Thoughts on what I should do with the power steering pump? Is the hydro boost port workable? Kinda wanted to mess with it before I put it in

8DAB4329-7D91-4D0C-8F4F-17F76A728512.jpeg
 

cruisermatt

let's go wheeling
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Are you going to run hydroboost? I’m guessing you have the same pump that came out of the 2500 like the motor?
If so and you aren’t going to run hydroboost you can just off the extra return, or swap the whole pump or outer can with a standard version.
 
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Are you going to run hydroboost? I’m guessing you have the same pump that came out of the 2500 like the motor?
If so and you aren’t going to run hydroboost you can just off the extra return, or swap the whole pump or outer can with a standard version.
I do indeed have the 2500 pump. The top is just a return from what would be the hydroboost right? Was thinking about mounting the toyota ps can up top and running into that for extra fluid if that’s even possible.
 

cruisermatt

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A good cooler would be wise. It doesn’t matter which return on the pump you use, but yes, one return is from the booster and the other from the steering box or cooler.
 
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A good cooler would be wise. It doesn’t matter which return on the pump you use, but yes, one return is from the booster and the other from the steering box or cooler.
This is cooler I got for it. Should work really well for the PS I reckin

9BB13AE9-2D0C-4749-90C9-3F8C3B6187D7.jpeg
 
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A good cooler would be wise. It doesn’t matter which return on the pump you use, but yes, one return is from the booster and the other from the steering box or cooler.
I haven’t checked the fitting on the high pressure line of the yota. Do they tread in or should I cut and flare the Chevy one on to the toyota line?
 

cruisermatt

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I haven’t checked the fitting on the high pressure line of the yota. Do they tread in or should I cut and flare the Chevy one on to the toyota line?
I high-pressure fitting in the Type 2 Saginaw pumps (what you have) isn't flared, it's an O-ring.
The Pressure fitting in the steering box is an inverted flare though.
I recommend getting adapters to -6AN for the box and pump and just running an AN or JIC style pressure hose. That way you don't have a custom hose to replace in the future.
16mm flare for the box and 16mm O-ring for the pump. You can get the O-ring adapter anywhere easily, the 16mm Toyota flare adapter is a bit less common, I think I got mine from PSC.
 
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