81 BJ42 - I have to bring it home and pass inspection (1 Viewer)

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At the very least I will go without PS long enough to REALLY appreciate it!

If I did do it, it would have to be ALL original
 
highjack ...
over the decades most of us 40 owners drove non-PS equiped Cruisers with lifts, lockers and bigger tires with no issue.
true, PS is nice but i feel it isn't a neccessity on these little trucks.
 
I agree with crushers,

I drove a BJ44 and an FJ40 without power steering for years. You learn little techniques like rocking the car back and forth to get some momentum on the wheels to make turning easier. I personally think I can feel the road better without power steering. That doesn't mean I'm not going to put a 60 series box on my 44 when it's done, but I'll put one of those valves that let me adjust the power steering pressure.
 
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Continuing Crushers hijack...

I have the 2H with power steering pump, and using a Bandeirante steering box, and I find the power steering is fairly minimal. Better than nothing, but not much. Think i would prefer a bit more oomph to it, and the 60 series steering conversion makes a lot of sense in terms of removing points of slop in the whole system. It's never going to have the sensitivity of a Lotus or Ferrari that's for sure..
 
I decided to go ahead and do the tires and suspension sooner than later. I managed a great deal and service from Kurt. These are heavies so I will have to reinforce my kidneys but I'd rather have the leaves and decide not to use them then vice-versa.


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The first corner came out easy - 15min. The rest were ok but it's always the last one that fights back isn't it? Had to use the grinder to assist with the last hanger pin after prying and hammering for a while.
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one in - the u-bolts are still on the way so the old ones can hold it together for now.
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Today I got bored and took time to figure out why I'm running two wheel drive. I opened the drivers side lockout and the damn thing looks like it has never been used.
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well there's your problem! The clutch was stuck unlocked in a rust soup.
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All parts seem serviceable so a little painting is in order.
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Too much smoke. Cut both ends off the pin after getting it to move an inch. Then grab the shackle end and twist.

Happy new year Wayne
:cheers:
 
isn't that the truth, i fought with pins for years, i got pretty good with a pit, a sledge, a pair of vice grips holding the punch ...
then someone suggested the torch, wicked idea.
i tried it and the smoke was in the shop for weeks afterwards.
now i heat outside before i roll the truck into the shop. dirty, disgusting work but ... it works.
cheers
 
We used to use the blue flame wrench on the gravel trucks at my first job. I was tire man at M.E. Singer's shop for about ten years. Near 400 tires in the fleet and a fair amount of suspension work. We wouldn't even try to undo u-bolts or mess with bushings. Just roll up the front and rear overhead doors and get the striker.
 
Ok, so this bearing is toast obviously. The spindle will be fine at least.
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I was bummed at first that I couldn't put her all back together until I realized I had a bunch of parts I bought for the 45 axles to be rebuilt. Looks to be the same bearing and seals as my 1978 FJ45, at least for the front. Actually the 45 full floater is the same bearings too. So I have four sets of bearings/ seals/ gaskets here :cool:

New "problem". Do I just do the one wheel bearing and call it good? I have the parts here to do the knuckle wipes and the trunnion bearings and even a set of Marlin super-dooper axle seals. I have a drag link kit, center pivot thing kit and a set of TRE's on the way too. I will, of course, feel the need to paint the hubs but I think I can refrain from doing the knuckles.

So lets have a vote. One wheel bearing or the whole shebang?

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oh, and what's the service limit on the discs? I get 0.752" and 0.765" on my brake rotors.
 
I was bummed at first that I couldn't put her all back together until I realized I had a bunch of parts I bought for the 45 axles to be rebuilt. Looks to be the same bearing and seals as my 1978 FJ45, at least for the front. Actually the 45 full floater is the same bearings too. So I have four sets of bearings/ seals/ gaskets here :cool:

New "problem". Do I just do the one wheel bearing and call it good? I have the parts here to do the knuckle wipes and the trunnion bearings and even a set of Marlin super-dooper axle seals. I have a drag link kit, center pivot thing kit and a set of TRE's on the way too. I will, of course, feel the need to paint the hubs but I think I can refrain from doing the knuckles.

So lets have a vote. One wheel bearing or the whole shebang?

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Like those marlin seals alot, he even thought about making one for the transmission to transfercase...

Whole shebang, you got the wheels off already your half way there:meh::cheers:

Happy new year...

Rob Lassman
 
Whole shebang - makes sense to set the front end bearings to the same condition, and while you have it up in the air, its efficient to do both of them.

Are you going to powder coat the hubs? I've found regular paint doesn't stay on there too long.
 
Another vote for the whole shebang, why make that the 1st corner you cut on this project?
 
do it right the first time ... i have yet to see you cut a corner.
19 mm is the book limit. i have taken them down to 16 mm with no issues on my own rigs.
 

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