Builds ?????????80 tm Build Input Requested (3 Viewers)

[scottryana]

Always a good idea. Take a step back re-evaluate your goals, and how you want to get there. It is easy to just want to buy the best parts, but sometimes those parts aren't the best together or they don't work together to get you to your ultimate end goal.

Sorry about the pissing match, for whatever reason, Big Boy is one of the guys on here that gets under my skin, I need to just find the block button for him.

 

[landtank]

If the tie rod is straight and there is nothing funky in the knuckles like offset trunions and everything is stock other wise.

axle

 

[Delancy]

If the tie rod is straight and there is nothing funky in the knuckles like offset trunions and everything is stock other wise.

axle

Everything on the axle is stock and the tie rod is as straight as an arrow.

No offsets, nada squat, just OE knuckles and MAF tie rod.

 

[TheBigBoy]

Scotty, Im very happy to debate issue's in a mature manner. As Chris knows. I was involved with this build (advice only) from the start. As soon as people started steering him toward utter junk he doesnt require. I just took a back seat. I sat and read only. This thread is about his build and rig set up, which he asks for advice. Then you pop up saying to look at changing his spring for absolutely no reason at all, other than you dont understand them. Its not a pissing competition. This is simply not any relevant or good advice at all. Unfortunately he spent ALOT of money now. So enough with the "he needs to buy this now to fix his problems".

 

[scottryana]

Not sure if you noticed Chris himself said he wants his suspension to be lower. So unless these springs are adjustable he won't lower his ride height with them. That is where the suggestion to find his corner weights and compressed height came from. So your "engineered" springs are probably great, but if they aren't what he wants, than yes he needs to step back and re-evaluate, and I stand by what I said, if he decides to change he does need to do something like I suggested so that he has real data, and doesn't just buy another "engineered" setup, that might not be engineered for his specific truck or wants/needs.

It is possible you missed it but this is from Chris:

Never could deal with the rake and can't live with it. Trivial, but is what it is. I don't think I can touch the front in it's current form by spacing, and I didn't want it as tall as it is, anyway.

Generally speaking, I'm 25" front, 26" rear, being 5"/6" lift respectively.

........

How can I lower the rear 1" with what I've got it gauge for replacements?

More coming.

So please tell me how I came in here "talking smack" or popping up telling Chris what to do? I simply answered his question on how he can gauge for replacements, to get what he wants. Your plan seems to be just live with the way it is because it was engineered this way. If so that is fine, but it wasn't what Chris was asking for. And if that is your stance I am fine with it, but there are a lot of people that don't want to live with something that was built on the law of averages.

 

[TheBigBoy]

Actually yes, I did miss that part. So my appollogies...

Ps, they arent my engineered springs, nor do I have any offiliation with superior. I've just extensively tested all this gear over the years. And now have a new version of the flexi coils with a thicker gauge base Im testing.

 

[Delancy]

It's the coil heights that are of issue, not the coils themselves.

They actually maintain the weight of the 80 very well.....even when airborne, and do remain seated.

They're all the same rate, as far as I know.

Wish all day for a holistic approach to the 80, but it'll never happen, so piece milling is the only way.

Going back to the issues número uno.

Coil lengths

PS rear 570
DS rear 585
PS front 590
DS front 605

IF, ( see how confusing this is ) maintaining the front as it is right now, the rear needs to come down 1".

In my simple thinking, that'd mean a decrease of 1" in coil, so the rears would need to shorten the rear coils 25mm. I realize this is flawed, but best I got.

PS rear 545
DS rear 560

If the fronts going to see intensive treatment, this isn't a bridge that needs to be crossed, right now.

 

[scottryana]

Yeah I don't think that 25mm is going to be a constant that is why I said if you remove material it is going to be a trial and error process. We can wait for BB to come back and tell us how you should do it.

Sorry couldn't resist.

 

[Delancy]

More thinking along the lines of ordering 25mm shorter coils, not necessarily cutting.

I don't know the difference between AUS and US 80s from a GVW perspective, but explicitly stated that I was light and none/minimal rake desired when ordering from Shane, all for 4" of lift, so something to consider for those interested in Fkexys.

Know they have a swap policy........

 

[TheBigBoy]

I dont get it?

Now get someone to jump in the drivers seat or fill your tank and remeasure.

Your saying your rear needs to come down 1". When the rear is already lower than the front?

"PS rear 570
DS rear 585
PS front 590
DS front 605"

 

[scottryana]

Oh if they have a swap policy and it is a custom coil, it should be pretty easy for them to get you what you want. Hopefully they will work with you.

 

[Delancy]

I dont get it?

Now get someone to jump in the drivers seat or fill your tank and remeasure.

Your saying your rear needs to come down 1". When the rear is already lower than the front?

"PS rear 570
DS rear 585
PS front 590
DS front 605"

Those are the coil lengths still marked on the coils, Mark.

The center of hub to flare, as installed, are 25" front and 26" rear.

Considering the coil rates don't change, I'm assuming these are free lengths in mm.

Original target was ~24". At this point, leveling.

After extensive braking and descents this past week, the weight bias/distribution/ whatever the term is as much an issue as the stink bug look.

When going downhill, the rear wants to hop around more than what I feel it should.

Can't say this will have much bearing on, but since it does on flat ground, too, plus looks goofy, had to be addressed. ( yeah, I've got issues, but that's no secret.)

Can't raise front, nor do I want to. If I could lower both front and rear to. ~24" be perfect, but don't want to upset the driveshaft.

Oh if they have a swap policy and it is a custom coil, it should be pretty easy for them to get you what you want. Hopefully they will work with you.

Hahaha.

That's the kicker....they're in Australia.

Why I'm looking at the whole thing again.

 

[landtank]

Everything on the axle is stock and the tie rod is as straight as an arrow.

No offsets, nada squat, just OE knuckles and MAF tie rod.

I've put a couple of HD tie rods in and haven't had an issue.

It sounds to me like the axle housing is bent and I have seen that before and that would explain all the drive shaft craziness.

Maybe start a new thread just asking for others to confirm their gap between the two.

 

[scottryana]

Yeah I know they are an australian company, and I haven't done any long distance ordering for AU but I figure if they are willing to get you what you want with an exchange, it would only cost you postage? Has to be cheaper than buying new coils that are untested with your setup. If you find someone over there that is good to deal with let me know, I want to buy some Motec stuff and it is like $1500 cheaper in AU than here in the US. lol.

Landtank might be on to something on your front end? Not sure how you could test it without some pucks and a big alignment bar.

 

[Delancy]

I've put a couple of HD tie rods in and haven't had an issue.

It sounds to me like the axle housing is bent and I have seen that before and that would explain all the drive shaft craziness.

Maybe start a new thread just asking for others to confirm their gap between the two.

I'm sorry, but gap between what two?

If its bent, then there's serious weaknesses that need to be addressed, because I've pussyfooted this thing.

Yeah I know they are an australian company, and I haven't done any long distance ordering for AU but I figure if they are willing to get you what you want with an exchange, it would only cost you postage? Has to be cheaper than buying new coils that are untested with your setup. If you find someone over there that is good to deal with let me know, I want to buy some Motec stuff and it is like $1500 cheaper in AU than here in the US. lol.

Be easier to buy what I need and sell what I've got. Since a baseline may be stablished, could determine what front coils would " match" my rears for a 6" lift.

Have a buddy in NSW who arranged this transaction, since the company could only accept wire transfers for payment and DHS has a huge problems with that.

He's in the shipping business if you're interested. He's a trustworthy guy.

Landtank might be on to something on your front end? Not sure how you could test it without some pucks and a big alignment bar.

Test it by throwing a Ruff Stuff in its place, then comparing. Ha.

If it is, then there's no doubt that OE will be abandoned, because it's not seen anything that ten thousand others haven't without failure.

 

[TheBigBoy]

I dont know what was said or done between you and shane. But being progressive flexi's its very easy for it to move that 1". If your ever planing on fitting a rear bar of some sort. It will be pretty close to perfect. And they arent custom coils. Thay are flexi coils, readily available and again used by thousands of people over here. Beleive it or not. We always have the rear higher than the front to allow for weight when loaded. But we also have rear tanks and RHD aswell. Each to their own.

 

[Delancy]

Only additional weight for the rear is 80-90lbs that I've simulated for that last couple of months with weight in the rear cargo area, no loads beyond that will be in future.

Re-centering in the well is of concern too. Not sure that an 10 decrease in coil will do, or not.

If I could guarantee an actual 4" lift (~24.5") I'd order new coils and liquidate what I've got, but a lot of implications for that crap shoot.

 

[landtank]

the gap between the tie rod and the diff. Or is yours rubbing?

 

[Delancy]

the gap between the tie rod and the diff. Or is yours rubbing?

Rubbing is an understatement, but only at full lock and extension, and begs this question.

If all else is straight, and the diff is rotated to a point that contact between it and the tie rod can occur when articulated, is moving the tie rod to the front a viable means to correct?

 

[landtank]

Rubbing is an understatement, but only at full lock and extension, and begs this question.

If all else is straight, and the diff is rotated to a point that contact between it and the tie rod can occur when articulated, is moving the tie rod to the front a viable means to correct?

I just went out and checked my truck. At full lock to the left I have about 3/4" gap and at full lock to the right a little more at about 1". This is just an eye ball guess. The slight increase in size of the HD rod would not create that kind of interference.

I think you need an axle. Most likely why you had so many drive shaft issues and could even be responsible for the diff failure as the inner shafts are likely out of alignment and binding heavily under load.