Builds ?????????80 tm Build Input Requested

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Before jacking every thread on here, a list of the current concerns/issues, all for debate?

I'm a little frustrated with some of the decisions made on this, and attempting to determine the best course of action before compounding further.

First and easiest.

Never could deal with the rake and can't live with it. Trivial, but is what it is. I don't think I can touch the front in it's current form by spacing, and I didn't want it as tall as it is, anyway.

Generally speaking, I'm 25" front, 26" rear, being 5"/6" lift respectively.

Coil locations and lengths:

PS rear 570
DS rear 585
PS front 590
DS front 605

I don't think it's as simple as cutting from the bottom of the coil, but what do I know?

Not easy to swap, since they're from Oz, so I'd have to be spot on, determining what they could be replaced with and still not fall out of the bucket since the shocks are a done deal.

It's not as easy to swap rears into front to gauge, since the increase angle of swap loads the front differently. (Has too much rake to accurately gauge. I did t have the wherewithal to pull rears and jack up to level to check where the front would be, but don't think I can lower it anyway and I was hot and pissed)

Any takers?

How can I lower the rear 1" with what I've got it gauge for replacements?

More coming.
 
RE: Tierod hitting the diff

So here is how I see your issue with the tierod hitting the diff. None of these small companies that are making products for our trucks are testing with all the other products on the market and a few millimeters here and a few millimeters there and pretty soon you are having interference problems.

The Superflex arms look like a great product, but have very little exposure over here and are kind of the wild card in your setup compared to most. But I still don't think it is a major problem. I think you can definitely find the clearance you need. But it is something that will have to be done on your specific truck by a qualified tech/fabricator. If it was my truck I would look at pulling the Man-a-fre rod, and having one made. If going smaller is enough so be it. If not, I would have a tab welded on the bottom of the arm, ream the arm out to 3/4" and run a heim (in doubleshear) and a new tierod underneath. This would give you massive clearance, but do you have the clearance between the steer arms and the superflex arms. lol. Always something.
 
scottryana said:
RE: Tierod hitting the diff

So here is how I see your issue with the tierod hitting the diff. None of these small companies that are making products for our trucks are testing with all the other products on the market and a few millimeters here and a few millimeters there and pretty soon you are having interference problems.

The Superflex arms look like a great product, but have very little exposure over here and are kind of the wild card in your setup compared to most. But I still don't think it is a major problem. I think you can definitely find the clearance you need. But it is something that will have to be done on your specific truck by a qualified tech/fabricator. If it was my truck I would look at pulling the Man-a-fre rod, and having one made. If going smaller is enough so be it. If not, I would have a tab welded on the bottom of the arm, ream the arm out to 3/4" and run a heim (in doubleshear) and a new tierod underneath. This would give you massive clearance, but do you have the clearance between the steer arms and the superflex arms. lol. Always something.
Click to expand...


Have to clear this up. Its very to easy to blame that which you dont understand. The superflex are by no means the problem at all. They correct caster for the given lift!!!!! They are absolutely not the issue at all here. If you where using stock arms with caster corrected the track bar would hit the 3rd exactly the same way - thus it is a manefre problem...

Running the bar from under the knuckle arm is an absolutely silly idea to entertain. It will be sitting lower than the diff housing and collecting everything (again this is with correct caster). This is not possible with the superflex arm, because its not needed. The superflex is simply a bolt on replacement for a factory set up. Run by 1000's of people.
 
As for your spring problems, and I am not sure your entire setup, but I think you have progressive springs don't you?

I would do a quick test, just to get an idea of your rear corner weight.
- pull your progressive rate springs and put in a light weight similar length coil that there is a known spring rate for. i.e. 350lbs/inch. Measure the coil's free length and the length under your truck this should give you a ballpark sprung weight for the rear. Now just start spring shopping for springs that equal the (free height - distance compressed at your weight) I hate cutting coils but I have seen it done, wouldn't be my preferred method but since your springs are not common off the shelf items it could work, but I think it would be a trial and error method.
 
Haha like I said, companies are not testing with all the other parts on the market. It would be impossible to do. I never said it was the Superflex arms, I said it was more than likely a combination of all of the not OEM parts, that are not tested with each other.

As for running it underneath, it would not be lower than the third that is a silly thing to say. It would space it down less than ~2.5" The Supeflex arms I believe are built with a hole in them, like I said it would depend on the clearance of the arms. Or if it is enough clearance you could do like you and I both suggested and run a solid tierod. Hell you could section the Man-a-fre bar so that you could use their ends and weld a solid bar in between them. There are lots of solutions to this problem that are not a big deal.



TheBigBoy said:
Have to clear this up. Its very to easy to blame that which you dont understand. The superflex are by no means the problem at all. They correct caster for the given lift!!!!! They are absolutely not the issue at all here. If you where using stock arms with caster corrected the track bar would hit the 3rd exactly the same way - thus it is a manefre problem...

Running the bar from under the knuckle arm is an absolutely silly idea to entertain. It will be sitting lower than the diff housing and collecting everything (again this is with correct caster). This is not possible with the superflex arm, because its not needed. The superflex is simply a bolt on replacement for a factory set up. Run by 1000's of people.
Click to expand...
 
Ive done it, it sits lower and collects everything. But then if we are being technical. The factory arms sit waay lower again anyway, as does superflex. So its really about the whole set up working together.
 
They are flexi coils - 3 stage progressive coils. It cant be measured like that. Its this kind of info thats got Chris confused.
 
No s*** that is why I said take his coils out and use similar length coils with a known spring rate. Please read what I type before you think you know everything.


TheBigBoy said:
They are flexi coils - 3 stage progressive coils. It cant be measured like that. Its this kind of info thats got Chris confused.
Click to expand...
 
Tornadoes headed this way, coupled with preparation for daughters ballet recital, that's in Downtown Tulsa with no weather contingency, may hinder speed of replies.

scottryana said:
RE: Tierod hitting the diff

But it is something that will have to be done on your specific truck by a qualified tech/fabricator.

Always something.
Click to expand...

On the tie rod

OE measures 1.25"

MAF measures 1.5"

When locking, the tie rod moves closer to the diff on the side that's locked, so only have a 1/4" to play with, anyway.

Wondering if pushing to the front is just throwing more money at it.

On the fabricator.

Have online, in H Town and have discussed sending the front housing from Austin to cut, turn, rotate.... Which negates the SE arms, to some degree, along with flipping arms, raising pan hards, and hi steer.

Only a discussion at this point, but they're capabilities far exceed what's needed hear, which scares me.
 
scottryana said:
As for your spring problems, and I am not sure your entire setup, but I think you have progressive springs don't you?
Click to expand...

Yes. Nor crazy about cutting coils, and need the progressives for the shocks to work.

Can get lower progressives.....not easy, but want it right, just need a basis for what length to order and insurance they can't fall out either.

Coupled with the front being too high, kind of gives credence to the overall big picture of run, pass, or punt, though.

Scared touching the front will bring on a whole new set of issues, even though the SE arms are for 4-5" lift, the non vibrating front driveline is at a perfect place.
 
scottryana said:
No **** that is why I said take his coils out and use similar length coils with a known spring rate. Please read what I type before you think you know everything.
Click to expand...

Der, Why are you wasting Chris's time then? Why not just look up a spring rate for a 4" lift if its linear?? You have no frigin idea how these springs work. Talking about cutting springs... Crazyyyy talk. He has the best springs in the country...
 
No I think you have no idea what has to be accomplished. Chris has to find a realistic weight for HIS truck. Not the average of what most spring manufactures think an 80 series should weigh so they can build their springs to that weight. To find that weight he has a couple of ways he can do it. If he has race scales he could rig up a way to weigh the sprung rear corner weight, but I am assuming he doesn't. What I think he does have is a pair of coils that are linear, and by knowing their spring rate and how much they compress he will know approx what his rear sprung weight is. Now it is up to him to either try again with the progressive coils or like I said start spring shopping but this time he will actually have the data to shop with. He will know the weight and the compressed length he wants, calling spring companies to see if they have one that will work, won't just be a shot in the dark. This is not rocket science and there are people that have been doing this outside of Australia for years, so your attitude has once again gotten the best of you.
 
scottryana said:
Chris has to find a realistic weight for HIS truck.

If he has race scales he could rig up a way to weigh the sprung rear corner weight, but I am assuming he doesn't.
Click to expand...

On the lighter end of all. No flares, no adds except a winch and a few pounds attributable to the MT tube over OE.

No, I don't, nor do any race shops here that'll exceed an 800lb corner. Buddies in Houston do, but I know the end result of a trip there will be excessive.....but it would be right.

Y'all don't need to get in a passing contest.

I admit, this is my own dumbass fault for throwing money at it, because I felt I was getting the best possible components within the OEish realm.

Just taking a step back has created the environment to consider this from all aspects, before throwing more.
 
scottryana said:
No I think you have no idea what has to be accomplished. Chris has to find a realistic weight for HIS truck. Not the average of what most spring manufactures think an 80 series should weigh so they can build their springs to that weight. To find that weight he has a couple of ways he can do it. If he has race scales he could rig up a way to weigh the sprung rear corner weight, but I am assuming he doesn't. What I think he does have is a pair of coils that are linear, and by knowing their spring rate and how much they compress he will know approx what his rear sprung weight is. Now it is up to him to either try again with the progressive coils or like I said start spring shopping but this time he will actually have the data to shop with. He will know the weight and the compressed length he wants, calling spring companies to see if they have one that will work, won't just be a shot in the dark. This is not rocket science and there are people that have been doing this outside of Australia for years, so your attitude has once again gotten the best of you.
Click to expand...

The part that annoy's me. Is your telling Chris to think about starting spring shopping once he has the weights? Right?

Its stupid comments like this, which is why he is where he is now. They are designed and tested coils... Why are you making assumptions that the coils have anything to do with any of his problems? Your just talking smack.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

T
Yet another 80 build...
Replies
16
Views
837
06reg4x4
06reg4x4
R
Shock Input / guidance.
Replies
12
Views
1K
Ronin344
R
ptotheo
Builds 80 series build. My first 80 series
Replies
16
Views
3K
ptotheo
ptotheo
RivMan
Builds Daisy the 80: LSX376 Poverty Pack(ish) build
2 3
Replies
46
Views
3K
RivMan
RivMan

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 1 (members: 0, guests: 1)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom