Builds 80 series where to start! Again.... (2 Viewers)

[jeffro109]

^^^ Go figure...I always wanted to see the end of that build.

So this super size rotor, and the new pieces to connect it to the OEM hub...that going to offset the rotor/caliper for clearance issues or for other needs?

 

[scottryana]

Yeah I too thought that build was very cool and showed some unique potential, but once I started actually getting more details it really turned out to be more like a "what if I do this" than a realistic project. The suspension ideas made a lot of travel but there was no thought put into how he was going to get the front wheels to actually steer? The cage was only tacked together and could not be loaded on a trailer, the way it was built the engine couldn't be removed without cutting the tubing or welds, the axles were just bare housings and didn't have any of the mounts to the suspension done. The body was cut into 3rds, and splayed open but were not closed back up, etc. so even though it was for sale you couldn't buy it because you couldn't put it on a trailer, just about the only thing you could do was to pay him to finish it but it seemed like a lot of things were not thought out ahead of time and we're going to require a lot of work.


The supersize rotor, the hat that bolts it to the hub and the caliper spacer are all just to get better brake performance. On my current build with OEM rotors and pads at first it was pretty easy to over drive the brakes because I could get up to speeds much faster than before, so with maybe 6-7 times more power than stock the braking power really needed to be addressed.

^^^ Go figure...I always wanted to see the end of that build.

So this super size rotor, and the new pieces to connect it to the OEM hub...that going to offset the rotor/caliper for clearance issues or for other needs?

 

[scottryana]

Cool, I finally had a chance to open the boxes from Beno. The new stock LC springs showed up and look to be just right.

The full wrap is 3" in height and there are right at 8.25 wraps. So if I cut a single wrap I should see a 3" drop and a small raise because of the increased spring rate of about 22% from the stock LX coils (10% for being LC, 12% from cut)

Guessing maybe 2-2.5" overall drop. Not huge but should also help with all the same drivetrain issues/vibes when lifting over 2.5". While part of me wants to just say screw it and chop 2 wraps out since it would be better looking I don't think it's a good idea. Lol

 

[scottryana]

Some more tweaks and changes but very close now. Only 1 runner left to lay out and then time to witness mark and weld! Definitely looking forward to getting this thing in my hands. Lol

 

[OGBeno]

Wow.

 

[scottryana]

Thanks Beno, slowly slowly slowly things are at least moving though.

Still a lot of little details floating in my head.

The most recent ones being:

if I make the new brake hats out of CNC 7075 aluminum will 18mm's of M14 thread be enough to bolt them to the hub? Modern cars with 2 piece rotors and aluminum hats don't have to worry about that. Ha. So do I go to a steel hat or just see if the aluminum works? Expensive experiment as a single round piece of 10"x3" 7075 aluminum is over $340. Lol.

With a big cam will I have good vacuum for power brakes? I am also thinking about a manual/sequential trans to hold the power do I bite the bullet and get a 3 pedal box now anticipating the clutch and spec it with a 7:1 pedal ratio and say screw the stock booster.

Yes this is the Land Cruiser s*** I think about. I have an Ih8mud problem. Lol

 

[desertdweller]

Have you considered hydoboost for your brakes?

 

[cruisermatt]

One issue with two-piece rotors that I've heard about is bad heat-transfer characteristics between the rotor and hat if they are different materials. On my school's formula car we have tabs holding the rotor to the hat made of machined titanium which apparently remedies the issue. This isn't my picture but shows the tabs pretty well:

 

[scottryana]

Yeah I have the floating connectors and all mounting material that came with the rotors. They usually attach to a steel OEM GT-R hat but they make a lightweight aluminum replacement using the same hardware so I suspect either should be ok.

My concern is the stock M14 hardware bolting the rotor to the hub. On the OEM rotor there is 18mm of meat to bolt to. Staying with the same specs you fall out of the rule of thumb of 2-2.5x depth:width for bolting steel fasteners to aluminum.

 

[warezdog]

That turbo header is both scary and beautiful at the same time!

You could probably get some used LC springs for free, I think I have a rear seat, chop 2 runs out of them just to see what it looks like.

 

[ZA80]

Why not just drop the coils and go air suspension?


Cheers Mike
1995 80 GXL 1FZFE Australian spec
GT3582 ball bearing turbo
A/A intercooler

 

[mechanist]

Would it be possible to use the braking system from an ambulance? They're heavy with boosted motors. Or the system in boosted bulletproof suburbans all over DC? Or could they not be adapted?

 

[JeepinPete]

One issue with two-piece rotors that I've heard about is bad heat-transfer characteristics between the rotor and hat if they are different materials. On my school's formula car we have tabs holding the rotor to the hat made of machined titanium which apparently remedies the issue. This isn't my picture but shows the tabs pretty well:

View attachment 1150853

I doubt titanium was selected for its heat transfer properties, as titanium has poor heat transfer properties. Weight and strength in that application. An aluminum hat is going to conduct heat away from the rotor much better than steel, but that heat is going to end up in the hub. Whether that is an issue or not remains to be seen.

 

[scottryana]

Air suspension as in bags? Air suspension as in air shocks?

Bags only look good they don't perform, and air springs even in 2.5" wouldn't hold the load.

There are lots of options but money was an issue, so cut springs it is.

Why not just drop the coils and go air suspension?


Cheers Mike
1995 80 GXL 1FZFE Australian spec
GT3582 ball bearing turbo
A/A intercooler

 

[scottryana]

It's not the boost that's the issue my brakes work fine in my other truck. It's the big cam that produces less vacuum. Many old hot rods with lopey cams have crap vacuum. I am still thinking things through but just kind of letting people know where I am and the things that go into relatively small changes.

Would it be possible to use the braking system from an ambulance? They're heavy with boosted motors. Or the system in boosted bulletproof suburbans all over DC? Or could they not be adapted?

 

[scottryana]

I did think about that, and I even just thought about using the trucks stock springs but I just figured that most springs were getting to be 20+ years old and they were probably not as stiff as they should be. So I bit the bullet and bought new. I will start with 1 wrap and if it looks stupid, I can always cut lower

That turbo header is both scary and beautiful at the same time!

You could probably get some used LC springs for free, I think I have a rear seat, chop 2 runs out of them just to see what it looks like.

 

[scottryana]

Runners finalized! What a mess of spaghetti! lol. I was told the finish welding, flange surfacing, and port smoothing should be done by the end of the week.

 

[gahi]

Wow!

 

[scottryana]

Haha yeah it is kind of crazy, would have been so much easier, cheaper and boring to build a log manifold. But I think this will be kind of cool under the hood definitely unexpected. lol.

Wow!

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Why not use a electric vacume pump from a diesel Ford?

Also that manifold looks........ Okay :O