Builds 80 series where to start! Again.... (2 Viewers)

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And I could tell the shop @BlueCruiser84 recommended would do my suspension they were really leery about heating the last winding on the springs to seat them on the truck. So I also took care of all the springs, so they have been cut 1 winding and the last winding heated and compressed flat'ish to fit the coil bucket. And let me tell you heating springs is not a science but with 2 spring compressors and a MAP torch I was able to get them all able to sit flat. I will clean them up and hit the cut and torched areas with some black chassis paint. Lol

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IIRC, you're running a custom intake manifold, right? I'd guess that a high dollar custom manifold shouldn't need port/gasket matching?
 
I am trying to run a custom intake manifold, at this point it's just all been smoke and mirrors from Hypertune in Australia. I would really have to imagine if they ever do release their manifold it better be perfectly matched.


IIRC, you're running a custom intake manifold, right? I'd guess that a high dollar custom manifold shouldn't need port/gasket matching?
 
As advanced as the middle east guys have been with the 1fz-fe, are there any sources there for intakes and othere exotic parts?
 
Yeah but their ideas on turbo and intake manifolds might be frowned upon by the Highway Patrol. lol.
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As advanced as the middle east guys have been with the 1fz-fe, are there any sources there for intakes and othere exotic parts?
 
And really from a lot of what I have read, they are not really optimizing anything, they are just using brute force. Filling half the block with concrete, running stock heads and 100% alcohol fuels and just pushing 40-50psi. If something blows they just get another.
 
I wonder how many rare middle-eastern birds that turbo has eaten? I guess the sound of the truck probably scares them off before they can get sucked in :eek:
 
When do we get pics of the stance?!
 
Shop guy - "Hey we fixed your springs"
Me - "?"
Shop guy - "Yeah they were bent a little at the end"
Me - "Yeah I had to bend them to get them to fit in the buckets. I told your front desk guy"
Shop guy - "Oh, so now what?"

Me - shaking my head, "I don't know man, I guess put it on the ground and see"
Shop guy - "I can take them off and heat them up again"
Me - "yeah just put it on the ground" -- thinking the whole point was not to heat and bend the metal over and over.

NOTHING on this project just goes easy. I mean I literally wrote instructions and left a copy at the front desk and put a copy on the front seat of the truck.
 
I gotta admit. Every time I get an alert of a post on your build, I hope it's some good news so you can stay motivated. This is like a torture test! Some good things HAVE to start happening!
 
Yeah, I think it is just really difficult because I know exactly what I want, but it is so different from the norm for most regular shops they don't really get it. But that isn't really an excuse, because I literally did write instructions, and stopped by the shop twice and told them to call me if they have any questions. But now I will be paying $400-500 for repeat labor (bending springs back, installing springs, removing springs, bending springs, reinstalling springs) just because they couldn't follow simple directions. I miss my garage, I miss having a shop that would actually listen and still do custom stuff.

I ordered another new head locally so if that comes in in one piece that will be good news. And the shop I bought the cams from (Evasive Motorsports - great service!) said even if Kelford wouldn't work with me they would sell me another set at cost, not great but saves me a little of the $1000.

Next big hurdle is going back to Paradise Garage tomorrow and seeing just what in the hell is going on over there and what the truck looks like, and then it is off to paint! I am going to end up having to buy new front and rear bumpers so my ARB bumper swap didn't work out too well, and I still need to buy the fixed rear windows, but other than that everything else is ready!

- Z34 Hood vents
- Aerocatch hood pins
- All new window rubber
- Belt line molding
- Cargo window vents and rubber
- Windshield gasket
- Rear window gasket
- Going to cut the front bumper for intercooler
- Still trying to talk them into welding up the sunroof (they really don't want to drop the headliner) They suggested a metal putty to fill the sunroof holes instead of dropping the headliner to weld. :-/

So yeah hopefully good news will start coming soon....


I gotta admit. Every time I get an alert of a post on your build, I hope it's some good news so you can stay motivated. This is like a torture test! Some good things HAVE to start happening!
 
Ummmm...I don;t understand why YOU have to pay an extra $400-$500 in labor for THEIR f-up. That's on THEM, especially since you had written instructions.

WHY would they "fix" your springs? What is it you were having them do?
 
Extremely easy getting that headliner out. Just a bunch of clips, sun visors, dome lights, and grab handles. After doing it twice I think I can remove it in under 10 minutes.
 
Are the bumps on the shaft going to be your only bump stops? Wondering how well they work.. What input have you gotten during your research on their quality?
 
No they are just an extra safety bump stop, their stack height is 0.4" just to make sure I don't bottom the shock out. The stock bumpstops are still inside the coil, but they were trimmed 2.25" shorter, I might have to trim them a little more but I am starting there.
 
Are the bumps on the shaft going to be your only bump stops? Wondering how well they work.. What input have you gotten during your research on their quality?

No they are just an extra safety bump stop, their stack height is 0.4" just to make sure I don't bottom the shock out. The stock bumpstops are still inside the coil, but they were trimmed 2.25" shorter, I might have to trim them a little more but I am starting there.
I used very similar ones on a rock crawling buggy I built a few years ago - 3-link w/ panhard up front, 2x triangulated 4-link rear, 40" tires, ~3400# total weight, Fox coilover emulsion shocks and Jeep JK bumpstops (urethane foam like the Kings) drilled and slid over the CO shaft. They were the sole bumpstop on the rig that I raced in the Lucas Regional (short course) series, and beat up in the rocks (including crawling competition.) That rig got jumped a lot, and I never once wished for a better bumpstop setup - smooth and quiet. MUCH quieter and less jarring than air/hydraulic or even rubber bumps.

I know that's a total 180 from what this truck will be, but I can't imagine a need for more bumpstop than those unless you end up with tire/fender clearance issues.
 
Good to know! The main reason I am leaving the stock bumpstops in the coils is that they aren't only a bumpstop but they also retain the coil at droop since at the end of the shock travel the springs are a little loose in their buckets. I could probably pull that bump stop and run a limit strap, I will kind of see what I think once I get everything on the road.

I used very similar ones on a rock crawling buggy I built a few years ago - 3-link w/ panhard up front, 2x triangulated 4-link rear, 40" tires, ~3400# total weight, Fox coilover emulsion shocks and Jeep JK bumpstops (urethane foam like the Kings) drilled and slid over the CO shaft. They were the sole bumpstop on the rig that I raced in the Lucas Regional (short course) series, and beat up in the rocks (including crawling competition.) That rig got jumped a lot, and I never once wished for a better bumpstop setup - smooth and quiet. MUCH quieter and less jarring than air/hydraulic or even rubber bumps.

I know that's a total 180 from what this truck will be, but I can't imagine a need for more bumpstop than those unless you end up with tire/fender clearance issues.
 

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