80 series vs 100 series aka Loud vs Quiet (1 Viewer)

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Fort Mill, SC
So I picked up an LX450 from a buddy who is moving overseas. Paid about $2800 in total knowing it needed some TLC. I've put that much back into it and now it's drive able and reliable. My objective is to turn it into my long range camping/exploring rig.

So the first thing I've had to get used to is the dramatic difference the ride experience between the two trucks. The 100 is smooth like butta, quiet and comfortable. The 80 is less like warm butter and more like crunchy peanut butter. I understand why the ride is a bit more "solid" but the racket inside is startling to me. To be fair I've removed all the rear seats, so I'm in an echo chamber now. And to that end I've ordered 80mm butyl, 150mm foam and some 3M Thinsulate sound deadening. I've pulled out the entire interior and am prepping it for this work.

My question is what are the areas I have to ensure I do to maximize sound proofing? Rear quarter panel cavities, inside the doors, wheel wells and the floor are all on the list. Just curious if there are spots or products you all used, or wished you used, please share.

Thanks
 
Mine is an echo trap until i load it for a trip and then it quiets down but it never gonna be a 100 series.
 
I had a 2004 Grand Cherokee Limited when I bought my 80 in 2007. The first thing I noticed upon driving the 80 was how quiet it was compared to the jeep. I guess its good I didn't own a 100 series!

But I also don't think I'm very sensitive to that part of the drive quality because I dont notice a big noise difference between our 2020 Toyota minivan and the 80 either. But on the other hand, a good friend owned an 80 for a while and the very first thing he did was dynomat it because it drove him crazy. :meh:
 
I went from an 06 Jeep LJ Rubicon to the 80. It's quiet enough to have a conversation. Other than that, it's only driven with the windows up if it's 95 or raining. Otherwise windows down! Doesn't get driven in the winter.

I get people are spoiled by the new cars, but I don't mind a little wind noise here and there. If it was too quiet I'd fall asleep at the wheel. I bought it knowing I was going to have a raw experience with the SFA and a vehicle thats basically used by the insurgents and criminals all over the world. They don't care about wind noise. They care that it won't break down. Same mindset. Not saying one is better than the other, but for an industrial grade tool like the 80 series, I'd say it's very comfortable for what it is.
 
Before recent surgery I drove three or four different customers cars every day and just don't seem to be sensitive to sounds as per @bpenn1980 however, all cars as they age become noisier as the sound deadening felt starts to compress, wear in overall components, 80 solid axle seems to transmit more noise into the body, different brands of tyres also have an effect as well, and dare I say it, as we get older we turn the sound system down? :rofl:

Regards

Dave
 
My 80 was pretty loud when i got it, but after removing the entire interior, I am sure i fixed a lot of rattles when things went back in. I did add some sound deadening to the doors, and now i realize the back area of the wheel wells need a little something but it is generally very quiet. It was a lot quieter than the 100 until the interior of the 100 was pulled out, cleaned, new leather and put back in with some matting replaced here and there. They are both pretty quiet now, so I would say that after over 20 years things come loose, get compressed etc, freshen it up and it will make a difference. I should mention that my 80 even had the window runners replaced etc so glass doesn't rattle around either (not that it is common on most 80s for it to have rattle there).
 
Mind you the 100 series is quiet and buttery compared to most vehicles. I had a brand new off the lot 2013 wrangler unlimited I planned to replace my LX with at one point, 4 months later I got rid of the jeep and stuck with the LX. The jeep to me felt like it already had 300000 miles on it compared to my 15 year old LX.

There was recently a long thread about sound proofing and luckily with the 80 it’s easy to take everything out and get that done. As well as many threads about ride quality options.
 
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I don’t understand exactly what you ordered? Are these the widths of the strips? Because if it’s thickness it’s certainly not going to be ideal. 80mm and 150mm won’t for anywhere but the rear quarter panels. That certainly won’t fit under the carpet.
 
I think he meant 80mil and 150mil (millionths of an inch, rather than millimeters). That's about what I used. I used Noico products. I covered the following areas with a layer of butyl, then a layer of closed cell foam: wheel wells, floors, entire inside firewall, and the inside of all doors. I also used Second Skin's mass loaded vinyl product coupled with closed cell foam as an additional layer on the firewall (I never want to have to remove the entire dash again). I still need to add tailgate storage and put sound dampener inside the tailgate, and eventually I will pull my headliner to do a sunroof delete and add sound mitigation products there. I also replaced my window runs and belt mouldings. This has cumulatively resulted in a drastic and noticeable reduction in noise. I expect that replacing all suspension bushings and body mounts with OEM new would also add to the solid feel of the vehicle.
 
Thanks everyone, so it's not that something is broken, it's the nature of the beast. And @scottryana, @Izeloz is right, it would be tough to hide 10 inches of sound deadening :). But I bet that joker would be like riding in outer space
I think he meant 80mil and 150mil (millionths of an inch, rather than millimeters). That's about what I used. I used Noico products. I covered the following areas with a layer of butyl, then a layer of closed cell foam: wheel wells, floors, entire inside firewall, and the inside of all doors. I also used Second Skin's mass loaded vinyl product coupled with closed cell foam as an additional layer on the firewall (I never want to have to remove the entire dash again). I still need to add tailgate storage and put sound dampener inside the tailgate, and eventually I will pull my headliner to do a sunroof delete and add sound mitigation products there. I also replaced my window runs and belt mouldings. This has cumulatively resulted in a drastic and noticeable reduction in noise. I expect that replacing all suspension bushings and body mounts with OEM new would also add to the solid feel of the vehicle.

And to be more correct... mil is 1/1000 of an inch. :)

So 150 mil is 0.15".

cheers,
george.
 
So I picked up an LX450 from a buddy who is moving overseas. Paid about $2800 in total knowing it needed some TLC. I've put that much back into it and now it's drive able and reliable. My objective is to turn it into my long range camping/exploring rig.

So the first thing I've had to get used to is the dramatic difference the ride experience between the two trucks. The 100 is smooth like butta, quiet and comfortable. The 80 is less like warm butter and more like crunchy peanut butter. I understand why the ride is a bit more "solid" but the racket inside is startling to me. To be fair I've removed all the rear seats, so I'm in an echo chamber now. And to that end I've ordered 80mm butyl, 150mm foam and some 3M Thinsulate sound deadening. I've pulled out the entire interior and am prepping it for this work.

My question is what are the areas I have to ensure I do to maximize sound proofing? Rear quarter panel cavities, inside the doors, wheel wells and the floor are all on the list. Just curious if there are spots or products you all used, or wished you used, please share.

Thanks
It'll never be like the 100 but it can improve some.
I've got one more thing I'm going to try with triple sealing the door jambs and will post on it.

But here's list of things I've done and it does help but still not a 100 series level. Thermal insulation under carpet recommendations - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/thermal-insulation-under-carpet-recommendations.1267466/#post-14123160

It does help a if you have much of an aftermarket audio.
And it has helped with heat/cool loss/gain.
 
So I picked up an LX450 from a buddy who is moving overseas. Paid about $2800 in total knowing it needed some TLC. I've put that much back into it and now it's drive able and reliable. My objective is to turn it into my long range camping/exploring rig.

So the first thing I've had to get used to is the dramatic difference the ride experience between the two trucks. The 100 is smooth like butta, quiet and comfortable. The 80 is less like warm butter and more like crunchy peanut butter. I understand why the ride is a bit more "solid" but the racket inside is startling to me. To be fair I've removed all the rear seats, so I'm in an echo chamber now. And to that end I've ordered 80mm butyl, 150mm foam and some 3M Thinsulate sound deadening. I've pulled out the entire interior and am prepping it for this work.

My question is what are the areas I have to ensure I do to maximize sound proofing? Rear quarter panel cavities, inside the doors, wheel wells and the floor are all on the list. Just curious if there are spots or products you all used, or wished you used, please share.

Thanks
I came across this thread when looking for speakers, there is a video that has the sound difference with the doors having dynamat and not:


 
My question is what are the areas I have to ensure I do to maximize sound proofing?
Every panel near a noise source, especially anything that forms an echo chamber. The rear quarter panels are an obvious one. Less obvious are the openings behind the kick panels. Those connect to the A-pillars and go all the way to the roof. That's a bunch of sheet metal echoing road noise all over the place. You could stuff something to *absorb* noise inside there, like Thinsulate SMx00L, but more importantly you can Velcro some mass-loaded vinyl over the opening.

The firewall and transmission hump are the main non-wind noise sources in the front. If you want to get fancy, pull the entire dash, mass-load all the sheet metal, then fill all the voids with something to absorb sound. I think there's a guy in SE Asia (?) on here who had a company do that to his rig.

IMO people focus too much on putting mass-loading (DynaMat, Noico butyl) on the floor, which already has generous mass loading on it from the factory. Better to focus on the areas that Toyota skipped.

Put down something to absorb sound on the entire floor (I use closed-cell carpet underlayment), then mass-loaded vinyl, then the carpet. The 80 has plain carpet that's not rubber backed, so it doesn't block any sound, and the underlayment is just jute.

Everyone who has replaced their body mounts has said that it significantly reduces road noise.
 
Every panel near a noise source, especially anything that forms an echo chamber. The rear quarter panels are an obvious one. Less obvious are the openings behind the kick panels. Those connect to the A-pillars and go all the way to the roof. That's a bunch of sheet metal echoing road noise all over the place. You could stuff something to *absorb* noise inside there, like Thinsulate SMx00L, but more importantly you can Velcro some mass-loaded vinyl over the opening.

The firewall and transmission hump are the main non-wind noise sources in the front. If you want to get fancy, pull the entire dash, mass-load all the sheet metal, then fill all the voids with something to absorb sound. I think there's a guy in SE Asia (?) on here who had a company do that to his rig.

IMO people focus too much on putting mass-loading (DynaMat, Noico butyl) on the floor, which already has generous mass loading on it from the factory. Better to focus on the areas that Toyota skipped.

Put down something to absorb sound on the entire floor (I use closed-cell carpet underlayment), then mass-loaded vinyl, then the carpet. The 80 has plain carpet that's not rubber backed, so it doesn't block any sound, and the underlayment is just jute.

Everyone who has replaced their body mounts has said that it significantly reduces road noise.
Yeah, I've been doing lots of watching and reading and this is the process most agree upon. Stuffing the cavities is one aspect that most ignore, and I agree that's going to be a big contributor. I've got the Thinsulate on the way and I guess I'm going to have bite the bullet on the MLV. That stuff just doesn't seem like it should cost that much! I already had a bunch of butyl from another project so I'm filling in the voids from the factory bits. Then will cover everything in CCF, tape the seams and lay down the MLV.

I'm the guy who rides around 90% of the time with the radio off, so I'm hoping this work helps minimize racket. Also, tires. The old Bridgestone KOs are insanely loud. They look cool but OMG do they make a shlt ton of noise. I've been running Geolandar G015s on the 100 and they are a very very quiet AT. And they'll do all the ATing I'll likely be doing. If they aren't up to the task though I'm hoping the winch will make up the difference.
 
You guys might think I’m on drugs but my “97 80 seams quieter than my ‘99 100, I’m not talking about road noise but just all the little interior squeaks and rattles that come with owning something that 20 plus years old. No question that the 80’s skin is less insulated than the 100 so there is a little more road noise, I also notice the engine noise of the 80 (and the resonator-less exhaust whistle) vs the dead silence of the 100’s V8, but IMO it’s not huge. Overall I’ve been pretty surprised at the 80’s comfort. Maybe having the rare cloth interior makes a difference in absorbing some of the sounds from the outside world?

I’m getting ready to start with door and quarter panel insulation as I work through each door’s window rehab and stereo installation, I’m not going to rush this and look forward to seeing the incremental changes.
 
I guess I'm going to have bite the bullet on the MLV. That stuff just doesn't seem like it should cost that much! I already had a bunch of butyl from another project so I'm filling in the voids from the factory bits. Then will cover everything in CCF, tape the
There are two separate things: mass-loading, like DynaMat or Noico, which is adhesive butyl that you stick to the sheet metal and flatten with a roller.

The other is mass-loaded vinyl. This is vinyl sheet that is, I think, loaded with some kind of mineral to add mass. This goes over sound-absorbing insulation (carpet underlayment, jute, Noico closed-cell foam, or maybe Thinsulate) and under the carpet. This bounces noise back through the sound-absorbing insulation, where it's turned into heat. Very small amounts of heat.

The mass-loaded vinyl I use is 54665T32 from McMaster-Carr. $11.72 per linear foot, 54" wide, 1/8" thick. I initially ordered five feet and that got me pretty far.
 

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