ARCHIVE 80 Series - Did you know?

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Did you know...

That the little black clip found on the front window frames are for: when driving down the highway, with one window down, roll it up slowly, and you'll notice a suction. I'm pretty sure its there to guide the glass back in the track when rolling the windows up at speed. Try it next time your on the highway and you'll see.

image-jpg.1079188

So I checked this while cruising down the interstate at about 73 mph. Sure as hell, it guides the window back in. Just barely but it does do it. Well, I'll be damned!
 
I don't think I have those window tabs. Do they look like they come out easy?

The front glass rattles like hell too. But that's unrelated I'm sure.
 
It might have been mentioned already, but did you know 1985 pickup hubs bolt right on to '91-92 FJ80 front axles?

What else is required to make it part time?
 
What else is required to make it part time?
A working center diff lock switch. With the transfer case lever in H and the hubs unlocked it's 2HI. With the hubs locked, 4HI or stock like operation. Of course, this also opens up the option of 2LO, which is handy for putting around in the woods or backing a trailer into a tight spot. It's not really true 2HI because the front driveshaft still turns, but it's good enough for government work.
 
A working center diff lock switch. With the transfer case lever in H and the hubs unlocked it's 2HI. With the hubs locked, 4HI or stock like operation. Of course, this also opens up the option of 2LO, which is handy for putting around in the woods or backing a trailer into a tight spot. It's not really true 2HI because the front driveshaft still turns, but it's good enough for government work.
No different than most 4wds.
 
did you know that if you break a 12mm stud on your third member you can replace it with any 12mm bolt found on the frame.
 
The window washers front and back is driven from the under-hood water bottle.
There is a valve that allows the water to spray on the rear window. This valve leaks and therefore you get water spray on the rear window when spraying the front.
What is the part number for the valve and where is it located?
 
DYK:
To check your drive shaft U-Joints or Yoke wear as well as when you grease them, you should do it with your drive line UNLOADED.

Have the truck in Neutral, wheels chocked on both sides, and maybe even set the e-brake. This will allow the drive line to be loose and you can feel all the slop. it will also allow the grease to go into all areas of the U-Joint and Yoke because the tolerances are still open and allow a pathway for the grease.

How much slop is too much?
 
The torque converter will not lock up in 3rd gear unless the "O/D off" switch is pushed.. at least on my A442F equipped 94. Not sure about A343F.
 
How much slop is too much?

There are multiple "slops" that you are looking for:
1) U-Joint slop: If you can see movement with the naked eye in one or more of the caps by rotating the DS or moving it laterally, then it is too much and it will continue to wear and will become looser. I have seen a u-joint lose ALL of its needle bearings in two caps and still operate, albeit, with a lot of vibration and noise. Vibration in a DS can eventually take out the bearings in the adjoining components (pinion or transfer case output shaft). Usually, by the time you can hear it or feel the vibration, the needle bearings are gone in one cap. (Note, there are (2) axis of lateral movement that need to be checked. One for EACH "axle" of the cross of the u-joint) Do this for EACH end of EACH DS.

2) Pinion bearing slop: If there is any lateral movement in the pinion bearing, then you will be leaking oil from the pinion seal. This can also give you some noise during acceleration or deceleration. If there is linear movement, then your pinion bearings are loose. There is usually a few thousandths of movement allowed here (like 0.003" to 0.010")

3) Transfer case output shaft bearing slop: If there is any lateral movement in the TC output bearing, then you will be leaking oil from that seal. This can also give you some constant noise while driving and is less likely to be noise during accel / decel because it is a laterally loaded bearing only, not a linear force like a pinion.

When you rotate the DS, you will feel the addition of all the gear lash (of the pinion, carrier, and axles) and the pinion slop. When you feel this, you must also look for lateral movement. If the pinion flange moves forward and back (linear motion) while you rotate, then your pinion bearings are too loose and you have too much gear lash. There will also be lateral movement, just maybe not enough to see or feel yet.

If you have lateral movement, that will be either u-joint wear or pinion wear.

As far as giving a numeric "acceptable limits" for any of these, look in your respective FSM. Those tolerances will be far tighter than what I'm describing here.

So many times, people are complaining of a vibration or noise when accelerating or decelerating or when they are driving that they have a vibration and as soon as they let off the gas it goes away (or gets worse). They reply: "I checked my DS and they are tight!" When I ask if the drive line was loaded or unloaded, they have no idea what I mean. If you have your truck parked on a slight incline, in park, you grab the DS and twist, turn, or shake laterally, neither you, nor Mongo, are going to be able to feel the slop in the drive line. Most people, after I have explained to them what I mean, go back and find that one of their u-joints is missing most of its needle bearings and is very loose.
 
There are multiple "slops" that you are looking for:
1) U-Joint slop: If you can see movement with the naked eye in one or more of the caps by rotating the DS or moving it laterally, then it is too much and it will continue to wear and will become looser. I have seen a u-joint lose ALL of its needle bearings in two caps and still operate, albeit, with a lot of vibration and noise. Vibration in a DS can eventually take out the bearings in the adjoining components (pinion or transfer case output shaft). Usually, by the time you can hear it or feel the vibration, the needle bearings are gone in one cap. (Note, there are (2) axis of lateral movement that need to be checked. One for EACH "axle" of the cross of the u-joint) Do this for EACH end of EACH DS.

2) Pinion bearing slop: If there is any lateral movement in the pinion bearing, then you will be leaking oil from the pinion seal. This can also give you some noise during acceleration or deceleration. If there is linear movement, then your pinion bearings are loose. There is usually a few thousandths of movement allowed here (like 0.003" to 0.010")

3) Transfer case output shaft bearing slop: If there is any lateral movement in the TC output bearing, then you will be leaking oil from that seal. This can also give you some constant noise while driving and is less likely to be noise during accel / decel because it is a laterally loaded bearing only, not a linear force like a pinion.

When you rotate the DS, you will feel the addition of all the gear lash (of the pinion, carrier, and axles) and the pinion slop. When you feel this, you must also look for lateral movement. If the pinion flange moves forward and back (linear motion) while you rotate, then your pinion bearings are too loose and you have too much gear lash. There will also be lateral movement, just maybe not enough to see or feel yet.

If you have lateral movement, that will be either u-joint wear or pinion wear.

As far as giving a numeric "acceptable limits" for any of these, look in your respective FSM. Those tolerances will be far tighter than what I'm describing here.

So many times, people are complaining of a vibration or noise when accelerating or decelerating or when they are driving that they have a vibration and as soon as they let off the gas it goes away (or gets worse). They reply: "I checked my DS and they are tight!" When I ask if the drive line was loaded or unloaded, they have no idea what I mean. If you have your truck parked on a slight incline, in park, you grab the DS and twist, turn, or shake laterally, neither you, nor Mongo, are going to be able to feel the slop in the drive line. Most people, after I have explained to them what I mean, go back and find that one of their u-joints is missing most of its needle bearings and is very loose.


Great info, have to check mine.
 
I think this thread is a great idea.

(Apologies if this is already covered, I haven't read them all yet!)

Did you know that for temperature protection, the AC will cut (turn off) when engine coolant is 108 deg C, and come back on at 103 deg C?


Dan
 

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