80 In The Snow - open vs viscous coupling center (2 Viewers)

[jonheld]

Does anyone with experience driving both versions have feedback? Is the HF2A noticeably less-good in the snow/slush/ice? Where/how/when do you notice the difference?

Regarding your original question, I have owned both a 1991 (HF2A) and a 1997 (HF2AV). Both trucks had Goodyear Duratracs.
I live on a fairly steep hill with a stop sign half way up. In frozen rain/icy slush I would occasionally have to lock the center diff in the 91 to get the truck rolling from a dead stop on the hill. With the 97 it just goes.
That being said, any modern AWD vehicle will perform better on road in bad weather conditions than any 30 year old truck...until the snow gets deep.

 

[G-Cat]

I had a 1997 80 Series with BFG ATs that was fantastic in ice and snow packed roads.

My next 2 Cruisers, 1999 100 Series, with BFG ATs were not nearly as good in the same conditions.

That said, the new owner of my 97 did (have to) remove the VC at 260K miles or so. He didn’t replace it.

 

[z531519]

i have a love and hate with ABS. I drive here in this god frozen state of MN so i have a bit of experience driving in non-ideal conditions. A non-ABS RWD miata with winter tires was a stellar winter driver. Very controllable, nimble, and even with aggressive brake pads. Disadvantage, i am surrounded by big pickup trucks that can not stop. On the other side, I hated the ABS system on my F150, that was a dumb design. It will activate if it sees snow on the ground.

On my 80, i can enable/disable the ABS. If you have the CDL button, turning it on deactivates ABS. Once deactivated, and you've gone past a certain speed, turning off CDL will leave ABS deactivated. Anyways, i tested with ABS both on and off, and I am impressed with how ABS behaves. It actually gives me a lot of control when braking thru uneven conditions. With ABS off, I'd have to dial in massive opposite locks when braking thru these uneven slick areas. As some of you would know, lots of spin outs happens due to this, hitting a slick patch only on one side. And with these heavy trucks (short wheelbased!), once the rear end is swinging, you better have reflexes of Senna to catch it . So needless to say, i am happy to keep my ABS on the 80.

 

[dpeshkin]

^^Winters in Alaska, Colorado, and PA just like this and never the slightest bit of a problem in my 94. But I always remember that the key to safe winter travel ain't the goin it's the stoppin and being in control.

I think you are spot on.

 

[Heckraiser]

My only comment is if you're buying an 80 to be your snow beater, please get the cheapest/crappiest one you can find. If you end up with a nice one, be sure to treat with woolwax or the like. I prefer actual junkers for this use. In fact, maybe stick with a subaru or rav4? For something more "trucky" maybe a 4runner. An 80 is great in the snow, but also a lot more than what is needed, terrible fuel economy, becoming rarer and more valuable (i.e. not the best vehicle to subject to mag chloride and the inherent hazards posed by the parade of idiots driving CO roads in the wintertime). Also FYI, later year 3rd gen 4runners have a multi-mode TC that performs like the newer 80's (AWD with viscous coupler or locked 4x4), but still has the option of 2hi for better economy. Really great all-around setup for a snow beater.

Just my thoughts, you do you. My 80 sits in the garage in wintertime and the 200 is the ski bus. :edit: did I just call my 200 a junker?

 

[ZackR]

…Because I’m a car enthusiast and like projects…. And like many on this forum, I think 80s are a pretty cool platform

Also the truck isn’t the best in the snow. It’s “light” in the rear, so in 2WD it kinda sucks. Since It’s part time 4WD, so I cant just leave it in 4WD when road conditions are variable. Part time 4WD means you DONT have a center diff, which means that when cornering something has to slip to compensate…slip = no grip. Really Big turning radius in 4WD because of this. Love the truck, but it’s admittedly not the best chariot in the snow

A stock unloaded 80 is also a bit light in the rear - enough that its slideable on the snow with some throttle. A few hundred pounds of weight helps, just like it does in a truck.

 

[elbarto]

My only comment is if you're buying an 80 to be your snow beater, please get the cheapest/crappiest one you can find. If you end up with a nice one, be sure to treat with woolwax or the like. I prefer actual junkers for this use.

Do you post on here telling people not to wheel their 80s…cause they might get trail damage if they do!!

 

[gummycarbs]

Do you post on here telling people not to wheel their 80s…cause they might get trail damage if they do!!

Normal trail damage doesn't destroy vehicles. Rust does.

 

[cahill]

If you are wheeling your 80 in places to get trail damage, than buy an 80 that already has trail damage. There are enough damaged 80's available to beat up. No sense beating up an undamaged 80 or subjecting it to rust.

I am not saying to not use undamaged 80 series and just baby them or keep them in a garage and don't think @Heckraiser is saying that either. I take my 80 on 4x4 roads but if it looks like there is a high chance of damage I don't keep going because mine is undamaged. If I was using it only for 4x4 trails and that was my intended use or found that I enjoyed that challenge I would find a beater to beat up on the trails and keep the undamaged one dent free. Since you intend your vehicle to be a ski/winter vehicle and it is going to start rusting and likely get damaged than it would be reasonable to find a specimen fit for that use.

 

[Heckraiser]

Do you post on here telling people not to wheel their 80s…cause they might get trail damage if they do!!

@gummycarbs pretty much summed it up. Rust will ruin a truck beyond repair. I lost my beloved 1984 FJ60 to rust that was too far gone (Colorado truck, not from the rust belt). It will make every repair job 200% harder and it will never stop. 80's and 90's Toyotas are particularly susceptible. I would rather have dents in every panel than a dime sized spec of cancer. It's not about preserving a perfect specimen (mine is far from perfect), just keeping it on the road long term. And everyone should wheel their 80!

Honestly, you do what you like, not like you need my permission! But if you're getting an 80 for a winter beater, please at least soak it down with woolwax every year.

 

[SaturnAscends]

I thought the 80 series was actually pretty resistant to rust, especially compared to the 60 series and earlier Pickups and Tacomas.

The frame and sheet metal seems a lot thicker and higher quality than other models of the same vintage.

 

[Lead Head]

I thought the 80 series was actually pretty resistant to rust, especially compared to the 60 series and earlier Pickups and Tacomas.

The frame and sheet metal seems a lot thicker and higher quality than other models of the same vintage.

No, not really. They rust just the same as the others.

 

[SaturnAscends]

No, not really. They rust just the same as the others.

From what I’ve seen I’d tend to disagree.

I’d say that if an 80 series and a 60 series were exposed to the same conditions, the 80 will fare better. The older LCs had terrible sheet metal that was known to rust even back when they were new.

Also my 98 Tacoma was from Maryland (not a huge salt state), and the frame was on its way out, rotting from the inside. I’ve never heard of this happening with a J80.

 

[Corbet]

@gummycarbs And everyone should wheel their 80!

I share this opinion. Why put up with the 80’s shortcomings if you don’t wheel it and wheel it hard. That is where it shines. Love mine, but don’t take it skiing, or on long road trips on the interstate.

 

[Lead Head]

From what I’ve seen I’d tend to disagree.

I’d say that if an 80 series and a 60 series were exposed to the same conditions, the 80 will fare better. The older LCs had terrible sheet metal that was known to rust even back when they were new.

Also my 98 Tacoma was from Maryland (not a huge salt state), and the frame was on its way out, rotting from the inside. I’ve never heard of this happening with a J80.

I live in the heart of the salt belt. In 2013 I scrapped a 91 80 series that had doors fenders and quarter panels that were just as (if not more rotten) than my '89 '62.

They all rot once the paint is compromised.

 

[flintknapper]

I share this opinion. Why put up with the 80’s shortcomings if you don’t wheel it and wheel it hard. That is where it shines. Love mine, but don’t take it skiing, or on long road trips on the interstate.

^^^^^

Like 'Stormin Norman' ?

 

[Railwelder93]

^^^^^

Like 'Stormin Norman' ?

Proper use of 80 series. Bravo

 

[PIP]

My wife's smarter than me and she drive's the 80 when it snows.

 

[kw90surf]

Just adding my $0.02 on the rust issue, living in Atlantic Canada. I am currently in possession of 2 parts 80's that spent their lives on the East Coast (one undercoated at some point in its life with what appears to be used motor oil, one not undercoated at all) and will say that they appear to have held up better overall than the pickups/4Runners of the same vintage, which stopped existing out here altogether years ago.

The doors on one were almost rust-free, the rockers on the other still without perforation. What surprised me most, though was the frames. Both, with the exception of the rear bumper/crossmember, were totally salvageable and without any holes or rot. 1991 with 190k miles, 1997 with 290k miles. Surprising amount of the bodies remained as well. I'd put them on par with the rust-hardiest vehicles of the same era, definitely a step or two ahead of the other Toyota's of the 90's.

On topic, I think an 80 would make a great winter vehicle if you don't care about mpg and have the driving skill to make the most of a vehicle with no nannies.

That said, my desert-born 80 gets put away for the winter. Being able to crack a shiny bolt on the undercarriage and then thread it out by hand is intoxicating.

 

[manofthewoods]

Just adding my $0.02 on the rust issue, living in Atlantic Canada. I am currently in possession of 2 parts 80's that spent their lives on the East Coast (one undercoated at some point in its life with what appears to be used motor oil, one not undercoated at all) and will say that they appear to have held up better overall than the pickups/4Runners of the same vintage, which stopped existing out here altogether years ago.

The doors on one were almost rust-free, the rockers on the other still without perforation. What surprised me most, though was the frames. Both, with the exception of the rear bumper/crossmember, were totally salvageable and without any holes or rot. 1991 with 190k miles, 1997 with 290k miles. Surprising amount of the bodies remained as well. I'd put them on par with the rust-hardiest vehicles of the same era, definitely a step or two ahead of the other Toyota's of the 90's.

On topic, I think an 80 would make a great winter vehicle if you don't care about mpg and have the driving skill to make the most of a vehicle with no nannies.

That said, my desert-born 80 gets put away for the winter. Being able to crack a shiny bolt on the undercarriage and then thread it out by hand is intoxicating.

Building on your last paragraph...
I re-did my LX450 last August, I feel guilty because I didn't break any bolts.