CharlieS
GOLD Star
ebay auction - 167148428598
80 Died. Time to figure out her value (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Colbino
- Start date
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Foothills Toyota in Burlington will be the best price locally. Of course then you are paying tax too. You also have to order online to get the best price. parts.toyota.com
You just missed a 15% off Toyota parts sale. I picked up some stuff for my now stolen Land Cruiser. Toyota tends to have sales around holidays so maybe hold off until Memorial day if you can. Sign up on Slickdeals and set an alert for Toyota parts. The sales usually get posted there.
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- Thread starter
- #63
Apparently scottsdale lexus which has the block for $3600 said that they will only release the motor to the person who purchases it. I can get the motor delivered for around $400 but if I can't authorize anyone else to pick it up for me then I guess I'm back to the drawing board.
As for the gasket kits, if I do not need my head rebuilt would I still want the kit which includes the head stuff?
As for the gasket kits, if I do not need my head rebuilt would I still want the kit which includes the head stuff?
- Thread starter
- #64
Thank you for this: parts.toyota.com
I was able to locate one for $3300 (scratch that - the online price literally jumped up to $4400 within the last 30 min.) online, which coincidentally was at one of the places I called earlier, so obviously I called tham asking about that and they said they cannot price match even through their own site?! Wtf!
I was able to locate one for $3300 (scratch that - the online price literally jumped up to $4400 within the last 30 min.) online, which coincidentally was at one of the places I called earlier, so obviously I called tham asking about that and they said they cannot price match even through their own site?! Wtf!
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mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Mud ship!?
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
The toyota kit I bought had everything except power steering pump/ timing case oring, PCV grommet.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
I would suggest plan on buying a new timing case assembly.
It comes with new oil pump, which also means new oil pump oring, new pressure relief valve.
Aisin timing case was >$200 when i bought one through partsouq.com
It comes with new oil pump, which also means new oil pump oring, new pressure relief valve.
Aisin timing case was >$200 when i bought one through partsouq.com
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Wouldn’t have guessed that cheap.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Aisin currently not available through partsouq.com
Toyota branded one is $257
The Aisin one I have clearly had the toyota branding ground off
Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
Yes you need all the gaskets to reseal the engine. You would be crazy to not have your head inspected resurfaced and valve seals replaced along with a valve grind. It’s probably $1k in your area if you can find a good machine shop.
- Thread starter
- #71
Haven't pulled the trigger on anything yet, but did find a running used 1fzfe motor with sub 200k which I could get for around a grand. I would then tear it down to the short block and replace as many gaskets as I could and swap over my rebuilt head if it was still good.
Does that sound like a solid idea or am I playing with fire and potentially waiting to get burned since I am so close to rebuilding it at that point and its an unknown motor?
With my current motor blowing could it have seriously damaged the head and it's components?
Thanks guys!
Does that sound like a solid idea or am I playing with fire and potentially waiting to get burned since I am so close to rebuilding it at that point and its an unknown motor?
With my current motor blowing could it have seriously damaged the head and it's components?
Thanks guys!
When you get the head off you would be able to get a good idea of the condition of the motor.
Sub 200k 1FZ biggest issue is the head gasket.
As far as your head probably not as the 1FZ is not an interference motor.
But until you pull it you won’t know.
If you’re on a budget it sounds like a good plan.
Sub 200k 1FZ biggest issue is the head gasket.
As far as your head probably not as the 1FZ is not an interference motor.
But until you pull it you won’t know.
If you’re on a budget it sounds like a good plan.
- Thread starter
- #73
I was unaware about the interference factor. That's good news!
Yeah, unfortunately I'm on a pretty strict budget at the moment, so the low milage used route will probably have to suffice. I don't want to skimp on small things, but I can't shell out for the ideal option right now. Is it a bad idea to clean up the block internally when swapping over all of my accessories - i.e. remove sludge and what not from the crank area? Or is that frowned upon and a waste of time?
Yeah, unfortunately I'm on a pretty strict budget at the moment, so the low milage used route will probably have to suffice. I don't want to skimp on small things, but I can't shell out for the ideal option right now. Is it a bad idea to clean up the block internally when swapping over all of my accessories - i.e. remove sludge and what not from the crank area? Or is that frowned upon and a waste of time?
Given the info shared I'd pick up that used 200k motor and start making plans to pull the current engine then I'd pull the heads off each for inspection. I wouldn't get too far ahead of myself ordering parts and making plans until both have been inspected. Some of these 1FZ engines are still in really good shape at 200k with a lot of life left and if that's the case with this engine it could be reasonable to service the head, reseal the engine and reinstall without getting into a bottom-end rebuild etc...
How much you plan to drive the 80, and how you'll use it long term could steer you one way or another in terms of how much you spend getting it going again but I'd let the condition of what you have on hand be the main factor in your decision making as long as you have some time to get the two engines stripped for inspection before you nail down your plans and purchases.
How much you plan to drive the 80, and how you'll use it long term could steer you one way or another in terms of how much you spend getting it going again but I'd let the condition of what you have on hand be the main factor in your decision making as long as you have some time to get the two engines stripped for inspection before you nail down your plans and purchases.
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Before you purchase do the math, bearings,gaskets, piston rings. More than likely block needs to be decked. You'll probably be close to $3,000 for the short block, compared to buying a new short block.
- Thread starter
- #77
Of course. But I wouldn't be able to do a full rebuild at this time. I would just clean it all up the best I could without disassembling the lower half. If I went for a full rebuild then yes, I would just do the oem short block. Just gaskets and small things like isolators, tensioner, timing plate, water pump, oil pressure sender etc.
All I can say is that my motor blue the HG at 230k all look good did the HG with all the while your in there stuff and all is good 30k miles later 
I don’t agree with what others say if its truly sub 200k you should be able to slap your head on and have many more trouble free miles.
I would not buy the used motor with out doing some inspections at a very minimum, I would want to drain the oil and look at it, pull the plug and spin the motor see how it feels and if possible, do a compression check
If it’s still in the vehicle and you can hear it run even better.
These motors have a 300 K rebuild interval and are good for at least two rebuilds.
I don’t agree with what others say if its truly sub 200k you should be able to slap your head on and have many more trouble free miles.
I would not buy the used motor with out doing some inspections at a very minimum, I would want to drain the oil and look at it, pull the plug and spin the motor see how it feels and if possible, do a compression check
If it’s still in the vehicle and you can hear it run even better.
These motors have a 300 K rebuild interval and are good for at least two rebuilds.
Colbino, For right now I would lean toward the used engine and check it out (e.g, compression, leaks, etc.) -- like Broski said. Fix what needs and put that in so you can drive the 80 again. Once you do this, you can have time to breathe and find a shortblock to build as your time and budget allows. Once you have the new engine together you could swap and either sell, recoup some of your money, the used engine or put it in storage for future use.
Good luck with whatever route you decide. Also, if you are unsure post up here or reach out to the local club.
Good luck with whatever route you decide. Also, if you are unsure post up here or reach out to the local club.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
A used motor is always gonna be a bit of a gamble.
But, there's things you can do to reduce the gamble before you buy.
Is the used engine running and in a vehicle?
If so, go see a cold start. Doors or start clearly?
Pull the oil cap, is it clean inside? No sludge?
Pull the plugs, inspect the plug tips.
Do a compression test. (a gauge is sub $50)
Does the overall condition suggest neglect? Or looked after?
If it's not in a vehicle,
Inspect plugs
Turn the engine over by hand. Does it turn over freely? If not, pass.
Check inside oil cap, check dipstick. Any sign of sludge or water? If yes, pass
Overall condition? If it looks neglected, reconsider your life choices.
I wouldn't buy an engine sight unseen, or if seller wasn't willing to let me check the above.
If buying unseen, only way would be from a reputable seller who would honour a warranty, and cover return shipping.
Potentially, depending on the failure.
You'll know a soon as you pull the head off.
I put a used engine in mine. It was put off the car when i bought it.
Checked all of the above. Installed it as is (resealed the sump before installing), then found it had no compression when i started it.
Blown head gasket.
I already new the bottom end was OK from resting sump seal, so I put a new head gasket and seal kit in it, along with a bunch of new sensors.
My logic being, if i decided to rebuild my original engine, I could resell the running used engine and recover the costs.
If i didn't do a rebuild, the used engine was in good shape for the foreseeable future.
