- Thread starter
- #21
It's been several years now, but I've probably only put about 20k on it since then.
80 Died. Time to figure out her value
- Thread starter Colbino
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Wondering if they introduced some kind of debris into the oil gallies. When your head gasket was compromised, did your oil and coolant mix. This could have damaged the bearings, especially if your coolant had silicates in it.
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2004
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- Boise - Idaho
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- www.snlandcruisers.com
I have bought two with bad engines for $2500. Both Cruisers were about a 6 out of 10.
My daily had a bad engine as well but it was more an 8 or 9 and has diff locks, I paid $5k for it.
Cheers
My daily had a bad engine as well but it was more an 8 or 9 and has diff locks, I paid $5k for it.
Cheers
- Thread starter
- #25
Still trying to figure out what I should do. I think I would sell if I can get 6k for my 80 and then move onto a 100 series for around 12-14k. I know I'll be in a another high mileage rig with most likely an unknown history but at least the paint won't need to be redone and the leather interior would be a lot easier to fix/find/replace than what I have now - not that I need it now, but lets be honest, it will eventually need something. Plus, I'm thinking that there are less NLA parts than the 80.
Or spend 5k to do the oem short block paired with my rebuilt head transfered myself, which will probably take waaay longer than I have and I still would need to make garage space before I could start. The LC is our second car which didn't get much use, but it was used and we will need a car within the next few weeks once our boys's baseball season ramps up.
Or spend 10/11k to have the shop do the oem short block pairing and swap and have the rig back in about a week+. Sad part is it will look exactly the same as it did before my wallet took a 10k hit.
And lastly, the shop has an unknown used 1fzfe from a wrecked cruiser paired with my head for about 7/8k.
So those are my dilemmas. Thoughts?
I need to figure this out before my wife thinks we can just get a mini cooper for her to piddle around in. Ugh!
Or spend 5k to do the oem short block paired with my rebuilt head transfered myself, which will probably take waaay longer than I have and I still would need to make garage space before I could start. The LC is our second car which didn't get much use, but it was used and we will need a car within the next few weeks once our boys's baseball season ramps up.
Or spend 10/11k to have the shop do the oem short block pairing and swap and have the rig back in about a week+. Sad part is it will look exactly the same as it did before my wallet took a 10k hit.
And lastly, the shop has an unknown used 1fzfe from a wrecked cruiser paired with my head for about 7/8k.
So those are my dilemmas. Thoughts?
I need to figure this out before my wife thinks we can just get a mini cooper for her to piddle around in. Ugh!
CharlieS
GOLD Star
I'd consider looking at it like $7-$10k for a vehicle you already own and know the history on, that will likely last another 300k+ miles versus potentially twice that money for a high mileage 100.
I'd take an 80 over a 100 any day of the week though, so I'm biased.
If the head was recently rebuilt, and is still good, a factory short block sounds pretty appealing.
I'd add in a rebuilt engine from @Fj80oregon to the list of options.
You could always rent a car to get you around until you get the work done.
PS. I can't imagine you will get $6k for it as it sits. That'd be great though.
I'd take an 80 over a 100 any day of the week though, so I'm biased.
If the head was recently rebuilt, and is still good, a factory short block sounds pretty appealing.
I'd add in a rebuilt engine from @Fj80oregon to the list of options.
You could always rent a car to get you around until you get the work done.
PS. I can't imagine you will get $6k for it as it sits. That'd be great though.
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NeverFinis
SILVER Star
Paying a mechanic $11K to put in a new 1FZ-FE short block with refreshed head? Thats a hard no for me.
Personally, if cost and reliability is an issue and all you want is a vehicle is to be a kid hauler but still want 4WD, I would consider a 2004-2006 Chevy Tahoe/Suburban (GMT800). Cheap to buy, cheap to maintain, cheap to fix, and that gen LS engine will outlast a 1FZ-FE, with much less fuss. I know that is sacrilege to say in a Toyota forum...but I am saying it.
Plus, any basic mechanic can fix a LS engine, unlike a 1FZ-FE....and it seems you are dependant on a mechanic to do the work...
Personally, if cost and reliability is an issue and all you want is a vehicle is to be a kid hauler but still want 4WD, I would consider a 2004-2006 Chevy Tahoe/Suburban (GMT800). Cheap to buy, cheap to maintain, cheap to fix, and that gen LS engine will outlast a 1FZ-FE, with much less fuss. I know that is sacrilege to say in a Toyota forum...but I am saying it.
Plus, any basic mechanic can fix a LS engine, unlike a 1FZ-FE....and it seems you are dependant on a mechanic to do the work...
Grimmjow
YūGEN
Back in '15 the same thing happened to me. Mine was a mostly stock '94, no lockers, and I sold it for $2k
That’s a shame. Looks like a clean truck. Wish you were closer to the Midwest. FWIW, I spent the last year rebuilding my motor. You can do it if you have the patience and don’t get in a hurry. Between the FSM and this forum, it’s basically all laid out for you. You just have to turn the bolts and nuts.
Moving to a 100 seems like false economy to me. You'll need to spend a good bit after purchase to "baseline" things unless you buy a really nice example so getting to "reliable" could be a lot less expensive with the 80 and staying there less expensive with the 80 as well. 100s aren't that much newer than an 80 but they are more complicated and more expensive in some ways. Have you priced brake master cylinders for example or considered repairing HVAC issues or making audio system changes with the later integrated screen models? etc. All that said, nothing wrong with going to a 100 and they are more alike than different with an 80 in my opinion.
Since the 1FZ blocks are typically known to last so long I would personally be comfortable looking for a used engine to swap in if I had months to wait and watch for one to come up. I'd do a reseal on it myself before install (timing cover, head gasket, pans/rear main, etc.) and with your use rates I'd expect it to last many many years before needing more engine work.
Putting the effort/spend into head work and then having the engine fail 20k miles later would be a tough pill for me to swallow. It may make it impossible for me to stick with the vehicle or platform (or for my wife to approve of more spending on it) so I can see if you end up needing to move on regardless of the numbers. That sentiment could change over time though, so I think you are wise to consider and take your time on jumping to conclusions.
Since the 1FZ blocks are typically known to last so long I would personally be comfortable looking for a used engine to swap in if I had months to wait and watch for one to come up. I'd do a reseal on it myself before install (timing cover, head gasket, pans/rear main, etc.) and with your use rates I'd expect it to last many many years before needing more engine work.
Putting the effort/spend into head work and then having the engine fail 20k miles later would be a tough pill for me to swallow. It may make it impossible for me to stick with the vehicle or platform (or for my wife to approve of more spending on it) so I can see if you end up needing to move on regardless of the numbers. That sentiment could change over time though, so I think you are wise to consider and take your time on jumping to conclusions.
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My first thought is to fix what you have. Selling as is would be a great loss and you will kick yourself later. I think a new shortblock and your rebuilt head would be the best choice. I think you should do the work yourself. Yes, it's big and intimidating but it's only metal, you can outthink it. Instead of paying the shop rate you buy the best engine stand you can find. You buy parts from the vendors here and skip the shop mark-up. You buy some new tools and get to keep them. You can rent an engine hoist for a weekend at a time, twice, or buy one used. Sell it when you're done. Or keep it, they come in handy. You can do a better job of it than the shop as you can take your time, no shortcuts, check every little thing you do 7 times and you have 'Mud right here, better than an FSM. It will improve your relationship with the vehicle and the knowledge gained is worthwhile. The sound of your newly rebuilt engine starting and running for the first time is indescribable, something every LandCruiser owner should experience at least once.
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Damn dude! That sucks! Short blocks are relatively cheap. Just hold out for one if you can.
6K for a none locked 80 with a bad motor is not going to happen IMO
The market is in re alignment and even clean running trucks are not selling
I would say your going to have to fix it !
The market is in re alignment and even clean running trucks are not selling
I would say your going to have to fix it !
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that's a clean nice looking truck
one source i like to use is bell lexus in scottsdale az, free shipping (up to $100 merch) to lower 48
they won't ship block assembly but the price would have me seriously consider options to get it from there to wa
popped back in to say check with @Fj80oregon
he's closer to you
one source i like to use is bell lexus in scottsdale az, free shipping (up to $100 merch) to lower 48
they won't ship block assembly but the price would have me seriously consider options to get it from there to wa
popped back in to say check with @Fj80oregon
he's closer to you
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If I was in your situation I'm 100% going with the new short block, especially since the head has already been recently refreshed and the short blocks are still available. I'd also throw in a new OEM engine wiring harness since those are available for 95+ as well.
You have a clean looking cruiser that looks well kept and mostly stock, plus you know the history. With a fresh engine and continued care it will last you a long time.
You have a clean looking cruiser that looks well kept and mostly stock, plus you know the history. With a fresh engine and continued care it will last you a long time.
Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
Buy a block, call me I’ll walk you through it! If I can do it you can. Agree with other posters you will be happy you did and it is very rewarding knowing you learned a new skill and now have the confidence to tackle any job. Don’t sell it unless it’s to me!!!
^^^^
What he said.
I bought a new shortblock in October of last year, and should have it built in the next couple weeks. Very rewarding, and not difficult at all, especially with all the resources this board provides.
Good Luck
What he said.
I bought a new shortblock in October of last year, and should have it built in the next couple weeks. Very rewarding, and not difficult at all, especially with all the resources this board provides.
Good Luck
- Thread starter
- #38
Thanks for all the various perspectives, guys. They are really eye opening.
I just got off the phone with toyota of portland and they told me that the short blocks are now backordered and cost $5900. I am going to call a few more dealerships, but the parts guy said he can see all of U.S's inventory and there aren't any showing up.
On a similar note, if I do the swap myself in there somewhere I can locate a list of all the seals and whatnots I will need to do the head swap?
I just got off the phone with toyota of portland and they told me that the short blocks are now backordered and cost $5900. I am going to call a few more dealerships, but the parts guy said he can see all of U.S's inventory and there aren't any showing up.
On a similar note, if I do the swap myself in there somewhere I can locate a list of all the seals and whatnots I will need to do the head swap?
A junk yard gen III LS dressed and with harness and brain box is easily found around 500+/-. With a garage dingle ball rebuild with new rings, bearings, gaskets, oil pump, timing set, oil pan and pick up tube. Will set ya back about 2k all in if you go budget minded (OEM GM bearings though) and the heads dont need seats or valves. And you have new skills and confidence !!!! Leaves quite a bit of room in the budget for all the other necessary stuff to complete the swap, the swap will modernize the primary parts of the drive line and get you away from the NLA / hard to find and have to wait for parts issues as well.
Just saying
I am on Team Save the 80 series no matter what you decide upon. I am just stirring the pot again is all LOL
Just saying
I am on Team Save the 80 series no matter what you decide upon. I am just stirring the pot again is all LOL
