80/20 with Stock Roof Rack

[Joagmon]

It's easier than that even. You can use the brackets like @Joagmon did, but flipped over.
View attachment 2387432

That would give you ~1.5" clearance under the bar.


I just bought a rigid 100W solar panel and am compiling a cart with Tnutz and 80-20 now. I'll aim to do something very similar to @Joagmon . Low profile is of utmost importance to me since I park under a lift in my garage and have a 7' garage door.

Here are some closer and further pics.

 

[Joagmon]

Here are some closer and further pics.

View attachment 2390044

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View attachment 2390048

 

[Joagmon]

Maybe this will help. Upper diagram is what he has now. Lower diagram is what could be done if you want more clearance underneath.

There are 3 potential mounting planes:

1. @Joagmon 's nifty method is to create a new lengthwise rail (.75 or .5" tall) below the centerline of the factory side rails. (upper pic in my diagram)
2. The common method is to add cross rails at the centerline of the factory rails (not pictured in my diagram)
3. The potential @gregnash method could be to flip the method 1 bracket over so that the new rail is placed ABOVE the factory centerline. (lower pic in my diagram)

Green : Factory side rail
Red: 8020 Bracket
Grey: Extrusion
View attachment 2387512

Yeah, I'll share my build when it's done.

View attachment 2387510

I actually tried this out. It does work and clearance is great, but I didn’t like the aesthetics of it in the end. Not to say it can’t look good but it would have required another order. So I tried what I have now and it worked. It’s a rabbit hole project for sure.

 

[Nightbrew]

You are correct and yes there is a slight bend to the rails. Install is not hard if you plan it out. I installed the angled brackets first, then the lateral bars with carriage bolts in place, then crossbars on to the carriage bolts.

Thanks for the info. Still in the design phase of my rack modifications.

 

[Mojay101]

You are correct and yes there is a slight bend to the rails. Install is not hard if you plan it out. I installed the angled brackets first, then the lateral bars with carriage bolts in place, then crossbars on to the carriage bolts.

I think I am confused about where your carriage bolt is placed and what it is securing together. Sorry if this has been answered but looking to order and want to make sure I have the right equipment the first time.

 

[gregnash]

@Joagmon So based on your pics the crossbars are not actually attached to the stock roof rack rails. Rather the lower brace piece is attached to the rails then the crossbars are attached to that. Is that what I am seeing?

From there this pops the crossbars up ever so slightly?!

 

[Joagmon]

@Joagmon So based on your pics the crossbars are not actually attached to the stock roof rack rails. Rather the lower brace piece is attached to the rails then the crossbars are attached to that. Is that what I am seeing?

From there this pops the crossbars up ever so slightly?!

You are correct. To me it feels stronger and adds flexibility on placement of the crossbars and yes you can shim them if need be. Also a lot less angle brackets to mess with which also take up space.

 

[Joagmon]

I think I am confused about where your carriage bolt is placed and what it is securing together. Sorry if this has been answered but looking to order and want to make sure I have the right equipment the first time.

The carriage bolts only secure the crossbars. Just slide in the track before attaching to the angle brackets on the side rails. I used stainless 5/16”x2.5” so I could utilize the same bolts for my awning brackets.

 

[Mojay101]

The carriage bolts only secure the crossbars. Just slide in the track before attaching to the angle brackets on the side rails. I used stainless 5/16”x2.5” so I could utilize the same bolts for my awning brackets.
View attachment 2390208

Got it! Thanks. I was trying to figure out how you were using them to secure to the OEM rails which is incorrect. Thanks for the clarification and the images!!

 

[chudly]

are most people going with series 10 or 15? pros and cons?

 

[suprarx7nut]

are most people going with series 10 or 15? pros and cons?

The slots on the factory rail appear to be very close to 15 series (M8). I went with 15 series for the cross bars (1530 I think) and then a 10 series half rail like @Joagmon shows. You've then got to be mindful of which brackets and screws you buy. On one hand it's a very versatile system (8020 style extrusions) and pretty simple.... on the other once you mix sizes and brackets and orientations you can easily get a pile of hardware that doesn't quite do what you intended. It's a bit of a trick to get all the lengths/diameters and shapes right the first time.

 

[chudly]

The slots on the factory rail appear to be very close to 15 series (M8). I went with 15 series for the cross bars (1530 I think) and then a 10 series half rail like @Joagmon shows. You've then got to be mindful of which brackets and screws you buy. On one hand it's a very versatile system (8020 style extrusions) and pretty simple.... on the other once you mix sizes and brackets and orientations you can easily get a pile of hardware that doesn't quite do what you intended. It's a bit of a trick to get all the lengths/diameters and shapes right the first time.

ah. did you do the same build style as Joagman? where the cross rails are actually attached to the bar running front to back instead?

 

[suprarx7nut]

ah. did you do the same build style as Joagman? where the cross rails are actually attached to the bar running front to back instead?

Haven't installed mine yet, but I've worked with extrusions a ton so I think I've got most the details solidified (famous last words).

I'll have the skinny 10 series rails running lengthwise like he did. I plan to attach the larger cross bars with brackets to BOTH the under-rails and the factory rails. Space constraints might dictate that I use only the through bolts on the under-rail like he did, but we'll see. I'll be placing one 100W solar panel and then perhaps another (for the on-board fridge and an alternator backup since I've had that part ruin two vacations in ~7 years).

Should have parts in hand next week, install shortly after. I'll report back.

 

[Joagmon]

Haven't installed mine yet, but I've worked with extrusions a ton so I think I've got most the details solidified (famous last words).

I'll have the skinny 10 series rails running lengthwise like he did. I plan to attach the larger cross bars with brackets to BOTH the under-rails and the factory rails. Space constraints might dictate that I use only the through bolts on the under-rail like he did, but we'll see. I'll be placing one 100W solar panel and then perhaps another (for the on-board fridge and an alternator backup since I've had that part ruin two vacations in ~7 years).

Should have parts in hand next week, install shortly after. I'll report back.

Heads up. My lateral bars are 15 series, .75”x1.5”x84”
Just wanted to clear that up. All of my parts are 15 series.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

All of my parts are 15 series.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Heads up. My lateral bars are 15 series, .75”x1.5”x84”
Just wanted to clear that up. All of my parts are 15 series.

Ok thanks good clarification. I ordered from tnutz and I think they only have that half extrusion in 10 series.

 

[Beto Cruiser]

are most people going with series 10 or 15? pros and cons?

I have 1530 cross bars and they are slightly taller than the rails

 

[chudly]

about to place my order with tnutz for some 15 series with counter bore holes.
The counter bore holes are big enough to drop carriage bolts in?

I'm looking for the best way to go about mounting an ironman awning (which is on the way) and some traction boards.
I was thinking carriage bolts into the extrusions and using a plastic wing nut on top? or is it better to use the t nuts in the slots and have bolts going downard?

M8 x 25mm A2 Stainless Steel Carriage Bolt Coach Bolt, Right Hand Threads, Metric, 8-Pieces: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific would these fit?

sorry for all the questions... just wondering if i should add more nuts/screws to my order with tnutz or everything is readily/cheaper elsewhere.

edit: forgot about mcmaster too

 

[archerwolf]

For traction boards, I would use carriage bolts in the extrusion with plastic easy grip nuts on top. You could use long carriage bolts and still be able to secure the boards even if you take some off. If you put nuts in the slots with bolts going down, the bolts would have to be the exact correct length. You wouldn't be able to remove a board and still secure the remaining boards.

For example, I used 1/4-20 carriage head bolts and thru-nuts like these to secure my traction boards.

Image is from Amazon "PowerSlot Thru Nut"

 

[chudly]

For traction boards, I would use carriage bolts in the extrusion with plastic easy grip nuts on top. You could use long carriage bolts and still be able to secure the boards even if you take some off. If you put nuts in the slots with bolts going down, the bolts would have to be the exact correct length. You wouldn't be able to remove a board and still secure the remaining boards.

For example, I used 1/4-20 carriage head bolts and thru-nuts like these to secure my traction boards.

Image is from Amazon "PowerSlot Thru Nut"

Awesome i was thinking of something very similar but didn't realize there were pass through knobs that's why I was looking at wing nuts