Anyone figure out a way to mount an Alu Cab Shadow to this set-up?
80/20 with Stock Roof Rack (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter WoodyCreature
- Start date
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Don’t know why one couldn’t. Mine has the same crossbars as a prinsu, which I’ve seen a shadow awn on. I have a Batwing and ARB 2500 on mine with no issues in 3 years.
@WoodyCreature
Would there be any reason that you can think of, that if I use the same style of crossbars as in your pic, that I couldn't mount longer bars on top of and parallel to them? I would like the flexibility to attach some wider bars occasionally to haul 2 canoes side by side. It looks like in your pics that top of the bars sits level with the top of the factory rack railing. So, in theory I should be able to attach so longer bars on top of the 80/20 crossbars. Any thoughts? Maybe run some 1515 square and attach with the angle brackets.
You absolutely can, and with several different options. That’s the beauty of having the channels.
What would you recommend for a set up that is strong and easy to install and remove. Placing a 1515 bar over the front channel of the crossbar and using the angle brackets to attach? If that makes sense
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
This seems like the simplest of the setups however as for the strength that would really depend on what you are putting up there and what you are looking to do with it. But ultimately that is going to come down to a number of crossbars to be able to spread the load out.
Thanks, it seems the simplest to me. I wouldn’t put anything up there with much weight. 2 canoes from time to time, and maybe a cargo carrier in the future. I really just need the extra width so the canoes will lay flat.
By the time you purchase 2-3x more length of 8020 on top top of what fits between the stock rails, you could probably save $$$ in the long run by bolting the proper (wide) length 8020 to some Gamiviti towers. Not the same method that this thread is about, but it might work better for your situation.
DIY rack for 100 series
something like this mebe.... (ignore the slot size on the mounting pads) Where did you manage to get a 3D scanned 100 series?!? That's awesome and would be incredibly helpful for all kinds of projects
forum.ih8mud.com
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gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
That's actually not a bad call dude. I know that eventually I plan for an Expo++ rack so would be saving myself some hassle in the long run.By the time you purchase 2-3x more length of 8020 on top top of what fits between the stock rails, you could probably save $$$ in the long run by bolting the proper (wide) length 8020 to some Gamiviti towers. Not the same method that this thread is about, but it might work better for your situation.
DIY rack for 100 series
something like this mebe.... (ignore the slot size on the mounting pads) Where did you manage to get a 3D scanned 100 series?!? That's awesome and would be incredibly helpful for all kinds of projects
The issue, I think, is that the Shadow awning needs to be supported by a 90 degree bracket at the hinge, which needs to be right at the rear of the vehicle to allow opening. The rear 90 degree bracket attaches to both the side rail and the aft crossbar. The factory side rails don't go all the way to the rear of the truck, and so my furthest possible aft 8020 crossbar is a good 20 inches forward of the rear door.
I could always run a pair of longer sections of 15 series parallel to the side rails and use it to mount another crossbar at the very rear, but by the time I do that my cheap 8020 homemade rack will cost nearly as much as normal rack.
I have considered this. I don't want to run the wide bars all the time, as they are not needed 99.9% of the time. I don't know if I would like the look if I took them off for normal driving.By the time you purchase 2-3x more length of 8020 on top top of what fits between the stock rails, you could probably save $$$ in the long run by bolting the proper (wide) length 8020 to some Gamiviti towers. Not the same method that this thread is about, but it might work better for your situation.
DIY rack for 100 series
something like this mebe.... (ignore the slot size on the mounting pads) Where did you manage to get a 3D scanned 100 series?!? That's awesome and would be incredibly helpful for all kinds of projects
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Understandable. Not a look everyone likes for sure... Question though, if they aren't getting used a majority of the time, why not remove the rack all together (if having the above setup) while not in use?
By the time you purchase 2-3x more length of 8020 on top top of what fits between the stock rails, you could probably save $$$ in the long run by bolting the proper (wide) length 8020 to some Gamiviti towers. Not the same method that this thread is about, but it might work better for your situation.
DIY rack for 100 series
something like this mebe.... (ignore the slot size on the mounting pads) Where did you manage to get a 3D scanned 100 series?!? That's awesome and would be incredibly helpful for all kinds of projects
And quite frankly if this is your main use(canoe and cargo carrier), by the time you buy the Gamiviti towers and the 8020 you might as well just purchased Yakima rail raiders with wide bars which would be a lot easier to take off than any of the aforementioned products. Note: I didn't read all your posts so not sure if you have the OEM racks on there or not.
This was my approach as I’m not really or want to carry a lot of weight up top. That may change in the future. But generally only carrying a couple of SUPs or kayak/canoes just like you. So just sourced out two extra crossbars from mud to spread the load. I’m installing rivnuts on each end so it does give me the option to add a wide bar if I ever need it, or honesty add an anchor or anything that will thread into the rivnuts. (Pic with rivnut not installed just a bolt to cover the hole and keep rain out. Also same hole used for second hole for awning mount). With 150lbs per crossbar I think 4 to spread the load is plenty enough for my needs.
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If you are referring to my needs the pictured product won't work. I need load bars that are quite a bit wider. Maybe the 60-72" range. I liked the thule bars I had on my 450, but I don't recall how long they were.
The longest bar Yakima makes is 78", then cut down from there. Not sure about Thule.
My point was if you still have the OE rack, going this route makes the most sense to me.
My apologies, I'm still not following you. I currently have the stock roof rack and crossbars. What you pictured looks to be the same width as stock. I am looking for a set up that temporarily allows for crossbars quite a bit wider than the stock rack.
Ignore my set up entirely. Yes, mine are stock width but I am modding them so I can attach a wide bar fastened on top of the stock cross bars if I were to ever need them.
BUT my point is that I see no point for you to buy Gamiviti or 8020 attached to the OE bars when something like this with wide bars will work just fine. And will allow you to remove them since you noted earlier that you don't want wide bars on the car at all times:
yakima.com
BUT my point is that I see no point for you to buy Gamiviti or 8020 attached to the OE bars when something like this with wide bars will work just fine. And will allow you to remove them since you noted earlier that you don't want wide bars on the car at all times:
RailGrab 4 Pack
Upgrade your rack. RailGrab™ Towers quickly clamp to your factory side rails - raised or flush mounted - so you can build a system that's stronger and more versatile than your factory issue. They install easily, hold tight, and have a low profile that keeps your vehicle's look sleek and smooth.
yakima.com
Ok that makes sense. The yakima link doesn't show a price. What are those running?Ignore my set up entirely. Yes, mine are stock width but I am modding them so I can attach a wide bar fastened on top of the stock cross bars if I were to ever need them.
BUT my point is that I see no point for you to buy Gamiviti or 8020 attached to the OE bars when something like this with wide bars will work just fine. And will allow you to remove them since you noted earlier that you don't want wide bars on the car at all times:
RailGrab 4 Pack
Upgrade your rack. RailGrab™ Towers quickly clamp to your factory side rails - raised or flush mounted - so you can build a system that's stronger and more versatile than your factory issue. They install easily, hold tight, and have a low profile that keeps your vehicle's look sleek and smooth.
I have to ask another question in terms of versatility. I've never owned a cargo carrier but could see myself getting one or two in the future as my boys are starting to become better travelers. Also I have peeps in my life that like to take lots of stuff. So now to my question. If I mount longer the 1515 extrusions on top of, the shorter 1530 extrusions that would be the normal crossbar width, could I mount 2 cargo carriers side by side? Would the carriers mounts go around a piece of 1515 on top off 1530? Or will they even go around the 1530 if I were to only run one carrier between the rails? I just don't know enough about how these mount and the yakima and thule websites don't give lots of info. Thanks
what's the easiest way to get the oem cross bars? pop off cap, remove small torx on underside. do I need to remove the 2 t40 or whatever they are bolts? just making sure before I get started. if I remove those large torx bolts I need sealant right?
