80/20 with Stock Roof Rack
- Thread starter WoodyCreature
- Start date
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JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
This is awesome.
I'm guessing unless you are perfectly snug against the rails, there's enough tolerance to allow water to drain? or perhaps tap some thru holes for that purpose? I try to avoid any standing water for lots of reasons.
I'm guessing unless you are perfectly snug against the rails, there's enough tolerance to allow water to drain? or perhaps tap some thru holes for that purpose? I try to avoid any standing water for lots of reasons.
That’s a rhino rack batwing on the driver side and ARB 8’ on the passenger. I definitely recommend having crossbars tying the side rails together. It’s solid with crossbars, not so much without. I purchased gamivity towers and didn’t really care for the profile and ended up with a leak as well so I switched back to stock and revised to this giving me more of a front runner style system that I can add to as I go. If you go this route I also recommend getting the nickel/galvanized/or stainless T nuts. I opted for economy the first time and replaced all of it due to rust. Also save yourself a few bucks and headache and get stainless 5/16 allen head bolts locally. The whole thing assembles with a 1/4” Allen wrench and 1/2” socket now, vs 1/8” that all eventually stripped. My crossbars ride on 5/16 stainless carriage bolts within the lateral bars, which also hold the awning brackets. Wiring can be run through the channels and covered with weather stripping if need be and you can add rhino rack or front runner attachments to it.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Awesome! Thanks for the info! I am actually looking at the Overland Pros Wraptor 2000 or 2500. I like the Backwing and the Peregrine 270 but at close to $1k each I am not in the position to afford that for awhile.
Also, do you think you could post some shots of the setup from a little further away? It looks like in one of the photos you still have the stock cross bars but I am not 100% on that. Also, how much do you think you have invested in the 80/20 at this point?
I haven’t experienced any standing water. Pollen on the other hand...
I’ve eyed the overland pros as well and definitely like the price. To be honest I’ve had issues with the legs on the batwing since day one and wouldn’t recommend so I plan on selling when i find an affordable reliable replacement. I do however recommend the rhino rack awning brackets I have. The spacing is perfect and they are stout. I’ve spent more than I actually ended up using, playing with different ideas over the last 3 years, but what I have now was under $200 with freight which to me isn’t bad compared to a set of Yakima crossbars. 80/20 has lockable hinges I plan to order for the solar panel so I can tilt if needed and I may get some sheet aluminum to create a shallow tray behind it. Believe it or not that panel clears the roof. I’ll get some better pics of the hardware tomorrow.
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It appears you have 3 attachments along the rail to connect your 7 footlong rails,is that correct? Just curious if that was hard install, as it appears the factory rack has a slight bend/curve to it, throughout its length,but that may just be an illusion.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
I think the rack does but it is more of an illusion to match the bend of the roof itself.
What sizes are you extrusions? I just installed 3 1530 cross bars and they are a bit taller than the factory rails. Not much space underneath for a perpendicular long run like you have. Are you long ones 20 mm or 10 series?
Side note, even without any rubber caps/trim on my cross bars there is no wind noise.
Anyone who’s gone this route want to get rid of their crossbars? Looking for OE bars specifically with the set screw on one side (see pic). I can provide UPS label to slap on the box, no shipping cost to you.
I don’t need to carry that much weight up top. Just light camping equipment with paddleboards at most. And if I do and can get 4+ OE bars across the rails then more help to share the weight.The set screw helps with awning mounts.
HMU
I don’t need to carry that much weight up top. Just light camping equipment with paddleboards at most. And if I do and can get 4+ OE bars across the rails then more help to share the weight.The set screw helps with awning mounts.
HMU
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
So bit of a dumb question.... but seems like the main complaint about going this route is the lack of room between the bottom of the new crossbars and the roof. In some places you are left with only millimetres of space and at the ends closest to the rails, you have a couple inches max.
Has anyone thought about putting small spacers under the stock rail attachments to the roof to boost it up a bit? like maybe an 1/8" or 1/4" plate?
Has anyone thought about putting small spacers under the stock rail attachments to the roof to boost it up a bit? like maybe an 1/8" or 1/4" plate?
It's easier than that even. You can use the brackets like @Joagmon did, but flipped over.
That would give you ~1.5" clearance under the bar.
I just bought a rigid 100W solar panel and am compiling a cart with Tnutz and 80-20 now. I'll aim to do something very similar to @Joagmon . Low profile is of utmost importance to me since I park under a lift in my garage and have a 7' garage door.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Are you talking having them on top instead of on bottom of the crossbars? Mind once you place your order, putting what you ordered?
Maybe this will help. Upper diagram is what he has now. Lower diagram is what could be done if you want more clearance underneath.
There are 3 potential mounting planes:
1. @Joagmon 's nifty method is to create a new lengthwise rail (.75 or .5" tall) below the centerline of the factory side rails. (upper pic in my diagram)
2. The common method is to add cross rails at the centerline of the factory rails (not pictured in my diagram)
3. The potential @gregnash method could be to flip the method 1 bracket over so that the new rail is placed ABOVE the factory centerline. (lower pic in my diagram)
Green : Factory side rail
Red: 8020 Bracket
Grey: Extrusion
Yeah, I'll share my build when it's done.
There are 3 potential mounting planes:
1. @Joagmon 's nifty method is to create a new lengthwise rail (.75 or .5" tall) below the centerline of the factory side rails. (upper pic in my diagram)
2. The common method is to add cross rails at the centerline of the factory rails (not pictured in my diagram)
3. The potential @gregnash method could be to flip the method 1 bracket over so that the new rail is placed ABOVE the factory centerline. (lower pic in my diagram)
Green : Factory side rail
Red: 8020 Bracket
Grey: Extrusion
Yeah, I'll share my build when it's done.
So thinking about going a similar route, and may be a bit dense. Can you show how the crossbars are mounted to the bottom bars, or are they secured into the factory rails?
I used 10 series 1"x2" crossbars for my factory rails and got all the rails and hardware from TNUTZ.com
4 crossbars roughly 10" apart. There's some variation in the distance between the factory side rails, so I cut the crossbars to 44 3/4" or 44 7/8".
PART: EX-1020-BLACK - 1" x 2" BLACK Smooth T-Slotted Aluminum Extrusion
Each crossbar is attached to the factory side rails with (4) - (CB-010-C-BLACK) 10 Series 3 Hole Inside Corner Bracket - Black Anodized. On the crossbar side, I just used 10-series nuts (ST-010 - 10 Series Standard T-Nut - 1/4-20) and 1/4-20 button head bolts. The hole in the bracket facing the factory side rails I drilled out to 5/8". I used 45 series t-nuts (QT-045 - Drop in Quarter Turn T-Nut) and matching M8 bolts to mount the brackets to the factory side rail.
For the Rhino Rack Batwing 270 awning, I mounted to the factory side rail using Gamiviti Multi Brackets with the OEM Rack Mount Kit and Batwing Adapters.
www.gamiviti.com
There's lots of good ways to do this, this is just what I did since I also had some of this hardware already laying around.
4 crossbars roughly 10" apart. There's some variation in the distance between the factory side rails, so I cut the crossbars to 44 3/4" or 44 7/8".
PART: EX-1020-BLACK - 1" x 2" BLACK Smooth T-Slotted Aluminum Extrusion
Each crossbar is attached to the factory side rails with (4) - (CB-010-C-BLACK) 10 Series 3 Hole Inside Corner Bracket - Black Anodized. On the crossbar side, I just used 10-series nuts (ST-010 - 10 Series Standard T-Nut - 1/4-20) and 1/4-20 button head bolts. The hole in the bracket facing the factory side rails I drilled out to 5/8". I used 45 series t-nuts (QT-045 - Drop in Quarter Turn T-Nut) and matching M8 bolts to mount the brackets to the factory side rail.
For the Rhino Rack Batwing 270 awning, I mounted to the factory side rail using Gamiviti Multi Brackets with the OEM Rack Mount Kit and Batwing Adapters.
Multi Brackets — Gamiviti
Your solution for adding accessories to any roof rack. Mounts to Gamiviti rack plates, OEM racks, extrusion racks, or any 1” cross bar.
www.gamiviti.com
There's lots of good ways to do this, this is just what I did since I also had some of this hardware already laying around.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
I like that setup...
I would recommend triangular gussets instead of L-shaped ones. See page 62 of the 8020 catalog for a comparison of the strength of different connectors. 80-20-Inc-Catalog-23 62 80/20 Inc.
Found these for much cheaper than the 4-hole 8020 gussets: L-Bracket w-Slide Nut & Bolt / 4040 4080 Aluminum Profile Extrusion Acc. (Qty 4) | eBay
You'll have to spray paint them black to match, but it's worth it for the savings in my opinion. Not at strong as the 4-hole, but still much better than L-shaped
Found these for much cheaper than the 4-hole 8020 gussets: L-Bracket w-Slide Nut & Bolt / 4040 4080 Aluminum Profile Extrusion Acc. (Qty 4) | eBay
You'll have to spray paint them black to match, but it's worth it for the savings in my opinion. Not at strong as the 4-hole, but still much better than L-shaped
You are correct and yes there is a slight bend to the rails. Install is not hard if you plan it out. I installed the angled brackets first, then the lateral bars with carriage bolts in place, then crossbars on to the carriage bolts.
The long laterals are .75x1.5.
No wind drag here either.
