Builds 79 FJ 40 Rebuild (4 Viewers)

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Good afternoon everyone!

So we pulled the Weber off to verify model #, stamped “Made in Spain”. We have a 32/36 DGV-5A Manual choke. Looking to buy a rebuild kit. I wish it had the 38 but for sake of $$$ we will just do the rebuild for now. Any preference on kits? I see a ton on Amazon, redline come us next. Just curious what is a reliable source

Thanks
 
Installing GR Starter. Before I make a 12v welder here. On my factory starter the batter terminal is on the solenoid, ground connects to the starter motor via mounting bolt.

This GR starter is a duralast 16828. The only post I see for the battery is on the starter motor. It does have a plastic/rubber insulator around that post protecting it from the motor housing. I‘ve never seen this configuration just thought I’d get some insight before I install it.

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1-800-228-9672 😝
 
Update. I called the 1-800# on the unit and spoke to an individual without a personality who was absolutely no help.

After being directed back to a GR starter thread I found some photos of installed GR starters, same wiring as the one I bought so GTG!

I ordered a carb rebuild kit through eBay from redline $30ish no shipping

Pulled the washer/anti freeze mount, pulling battery tray and splash guard to refinish tomorrow. Will also remove and paint the intake since the carb is already off.
 
Disassembly begins. Fenders are good, engine skirts. Bottom of bib is really rotted. I noticed real steel has a repair section for under $200. Does anyone have experience with this? Front of hood has a bunch of pin holes due to rust, plan is to strip it, weld the small holes, grind and use body filler. Meantime the body needs to come off the frame. We need a new fuel tank and some frame repairs. We do not have a hoist option in the garage so we will need to strategize some board and block technique.

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the bib by the hinge is in bad shape,
what does the back side look like?
the double layer of metal at the bottom holds moisture and this is the end result.

check with Patrick? in Germany, I got a NOS bib from him a few years ago, he may have more.
@dieselbj42
 
Your bib looks very close to how mine was.....but I was able to salvage the non-curved pieces and
just cut away the cancer. If you're able to do that its just a simple 90 deg bend. No real need
to have a prefab'd patch. I just cut the correct width and bent it by hand on my table with
another piece of angle iron.

 
A few able bodied folk can lift the body off. Another method is an engine hoist through a door opening, secured to seat belt and/or roll bar mounting points.

Caveat: if your interior isn’t stripped, all bets are off there.
 
the bib by the hinge is in bad shape,
what does the back side look like?
the double layer of metal at the bottom holds moisture and this is the end result.

check with Patrick? in Germany, I got a NOS bib from him a few years ago, he may have more.
@dieselbj42
Back side isn’t much better. To repair I will need to cut and patch both sections. For time and skill sake I thought it worth welding in the prefabbed section. Just concerned because the rot gets pretty close to the punched molding.
 
Right...when you get into that you'll most likely find that the angle iron piece will need to be replaced also. That isn't
really part of any patch panel.....so you are headed toward fab'ing some part of that at minimum. At this point after dealing with
other patch panels....my preferred method is to try to avoid them where I can. I've spent loads of time still fiddling with
panels that were supposed to save me time. I'd pull it apart....wire wheel it down to shiny metal and see where the cancer
line "to cut" actually is.
 
Well I was in the mood for a small victory so I took apart and reconditioned the blower box. Cleaned inside and out, redyed the plastic housing with SEM classy gray. I painted the door flap off copper s as well as the top grommets. All new bolts/screws. I ordered 1/2 foam to create the gaskets. Over all I’m really happy with it. I’m thinking of doing a set of newer copper Toyota wheels so I might carry that theme throughout the build.

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Ok finally completed the heater box restoration minus 2 retaining washers on the selector lever. It was a rusty mess! My daughter and I sanded and sanded and……Over all I give it a 7 out of 10. I can’t believe I didn’t take before pictures…We chemically stripped the heater core and painted it with a high temp copper, we tried a goldish color on the flaps just to see how it would come out against the engine for future items. Bought the 1/4 foam from amazon and used high temp silicone. It was definitely a squish to get it in there but all in all I think it cost $25. Not counting the paint because it will be well used through the build.

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Little update. We cut out the rot at the bottom of the bib. Purchased a bender from harbor freight. & fabed up a new support plate as well.

Looking to start on the windshield frame next. I have no idea how to remove these plastic vent covers without breaking them though.

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I think there are some JIS/phillips head screws on the top edge of those plastic things. Mine were quite rusted, but did come out
 
There are 8 clips(look like plastic rivets) that hold the two defrost deflectors to the windshield. They are in between the deflector and the windshield glass. you should be able to push the pin down and out, but they will end up in the duct. Need to use a scribe or something long and skinny. this should allow you to pry the "rivet" out. Replacements are available
1982 Toyota Land Cruiser Clip(for defroster guide). Windshield, interior, body - 9046707003 - Genuine Toyota Part - https://parts.toyota.com/p/Toyota_1982_Land-Cruiser/CLIPFOR-DEFROSTER-GUIDE/63531398/9046707003.html
HTH
 
Thanks for all the help. sometimes I just can’t come up with the correct keyword to search in the threads sorry if I missed the obvious
 
Thank you so much with the assistance on the vent pieces. I definitely had no idea how those clips worked by looking at them… Little up date
Intake manifold cleaned and painted
Fabbed a homemade E-brake retainer clip removal tool to release the cable and pull the retainer cup which was stripped and painted
Pulled the framing from the upper dash pad, stripped/painted and re glued as both ends had pulled away years ago it looks
Some restoration of the lower dash pads
cleansed/painted vent covers
sanded and painted the wiper linkage
Pulled the windshield and against my best efforts having watched several videos I broke the glass…
Sat the lower portion of the windshield frame in a rust remover solution, welded remaining pin holes and is ready for apoxy primer

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