79 FJ 40 Rebuild

[Stevens79FJ40]

Good afternoon everyone!

So we pulled the Weber off to verify model #, stamped “Made in Spain”. We have a 32/36 DGV-5A Manual choke. Looking to buy a rebuild kit. I wish it had the 38 but for sake of $$$ we will just do the rebuild for now. Any preference on kits? I see a ton on Amazon, redline come us next. Just curious what is a reliable source

Thanks

 

[Stevens79FJ40]

Installing GR Starter. Before I make a 12v welder here. On my factory starter the batter terminal is on the solenoid, ground connects to the starter motor via mounting bolt.

This GR starter is a duralast 16828. The only post I see for the battery is on the starter motor. It does have a plastic/rubber insulator around that post protecting it from the motor housing. I‘ve never seen this configuration just thought I’d get some insight before I install it.

 

[middlecalf]

1-800-228-9672 😝

 

[Stevens79FJ40]

Update. I called the 1-800# on the unit and spoke to an individual without a personality who was absolutely no help.

After being directed back to a GR starter thread I found some photos of installed GR starters, same wiring as the one I bought so GTG!

I ordered a carb rebuild kit through eBay from redline $30ish no shipping

Pulled the washer/anti freeze mount, pulling battery tray and splash guard to refinish tomorrow. Will also remove and paint the intake since the carb is already off.

 

[Stevens79FJ40]

Disassembly begins. Fenders are good, engine skirts. Bottom of bib is really rotted. I noticed real steel has a repair section for under $200. Does anyone have experience with this? Front of hood has a bunch of pin holes due to rust, plan is to strip it, weld the small holes, grind and use body filler. Meantime the body needs to come off the frame. We need a new fuel tank and some frame repairs. We do not have a hoist option in the garage so we will need to strategize some board and block technique.

 

[3_puppies]

the bib by the hinge is in bad shape,
what does the back side look like?
the double layer of metal at the bottom holds moisture and this is the end result.

check with Patrick? in Germany, I got a NOS bib from him a few years ago, he may have more.
@dieselbj42

 

[wimberosa]

Your bib looks very close to how mine was.....but I was able to salvage the non-curved pieces and
just cut away the cancer. If you're able to do that its just a simple 90 deg bend. No real need
to have a prefab'd patch. I just cut the correct width and bent it by hand on my table with
another piece of angle iron.

Wimberosa's 40 project

Well.... I've been hesitant to create a build thread on this 40 because I knew it was going to take me years of slow increments. Recently I've found myself with a proper shop and time to commit to it....so I've decided to up the ante and document it. This is a May 1979 build date. I picked...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Skreddy]

A few able bodied folk can lift the body off. Another method is an engine hoist through a door opening, secured to seat belt and/or roll bar mounting points.

Caveat: if your interior isn’t stripped, all bets are off there.

 

[Stevens79FJ40]

the bib by the hinge is in bad shape,
what does the back side look like?
the double layer of metal at the bottom holds moisture and this is the end result.

check with Patrick? in Germany, I got a NOS bib from him a few years ago, he may have more.
@dieselbj42

Back side isn’t much better. To repair I will need to cut and patch both sections. For time and skill sake I thought it worth welding in the prefabbed section. Just concerned because the rot gets pretty close to the punched molding.

 

[Stevens79FJ40]

Back side isn’t much better. To repair I will need to cut and patch both sections. For time and skill sake I thought it worth welding in the prefabbed section. Just concerned because the rot gets pretty close to the punched molding.

 

[wimberosa]

View attachment 3202650

Right...when you get into that you'll most likely find that the angle iron piece will need to be replaced also. That isn't
really part of any patch panel.....so you are headed toward fab'ing some part of that at minimum. At this point after dealing with
other patch panels....my preferred method is to try to avoid them where I can. I've spent loads of time still fiddling with
panels that were supposed to save me time. I'd pull it apart....wire wheel it down to shiny metal and see where the cancer
line "to cut" actually is.

 

[Stevens79FJ40]

Well I was in the mood for a small victory so I took apart and reconditioned the blower box. Cleaned inside and out, redyed the plastic housing with SEM classy gray. I painted the door flap off copper s as well as the top grommets. All new bolts/screws. I ordered 1/2 foam to create the gaskets. Over all I’m really happy with it. I’m thinking of doing a set of newer copper Toyota wheels so I might carry that theme throughout the build.

 

[Stevens79FJ40]

Ok finally completed the heater box restoration minus 2 retaining washers on the selector lever. It was a rusty mess! My daughter and I sanded and sanded and……Over all I give it a 7 out of 10. I can’t believe I didn’t take before pictures…We chemically stripped the heater core and painted it with a high temp copper, we tried a goldish color on the flaps just to see how it would come out against the engine for future items. Bought the 1/4 foam from amazon and used high temp silicone. It was definitely a squish to get it in there but all in all I think it cost $25. Not counting the paint because it will be well used through the build.