Builds 78 Mustard Yellow FJ40 #Tiger40 (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I’m getting good at disassembling this, but it’s not a skill I wish I had lol. So far I found that the power valve was sticking and not retracting under vacuum. Pulled the valve out and sanded both the bore and valve with 2000 grit sand paper. Verified that it’s working with a vacuum tester on the #8 port.

IMG_0405.jpeg


IMG_0408.jpeg


Got pulled out the garage to watch the dodger game so I have to put this project on pause.
 
When you solve that secondary, let me know.

Did smoke tests, several lean drop, set timing along, etc (ie is the engine the issue or the carb?). New gaskets, etc.

People say to me ‘one rarely uses the secondary’- for me, it is so long with out one, it is kind of like an engagement without the wedding. You know you’re missing something big.

Dodgers got it dialed in. The pitching tonight was fantastic.
 
When you solve that secondary, let me know.

Did smoke tests, several lean drop, set timing along, etc (ie is the engine the issue or the carb?). New gaskets, etc.

People say to me ‘one rarely uses the secondary’- for me, it is so long with out one, it is kind of like an engagement without the wedding. You know you’re missing something big.

Dodgers got it dialed in. The pitching tonight was fantastic.
The game was great! Not a sports guy at all, but the family makes me watch the important ones lol. Pinhead has a fantastic video breaking down the secondary and how it all functions. I changed the diaphragm when I rebuilt the carb, so I know that’s not the issue.

Going to blow compressed air through the ports and then bend the tang on the levers to where it has 1mm gap. This will make it open more and should provide the vacuum needed. Last resort is to replace the secondary diaphragm spring with a weaker spring.

 
Found the problem! The dang gaskets supplied in the hygrade kit do not have the holes cutout for the secondary vacuum ports. The diaphragm stood no chance of ever working.

IMG_0472.jpeg


I know that piece in my hand has bonded gaskets on it but I thought I was playing it safe by installing the gaskets in the kit. Is there any way to tell if the bonded gasket are still good, so I can ditch the gaskets?
 
No sealant. Soak the permanently bonded gasket with liquid wrench to soften the asphaltic component and rejuvenate the gasket.

I rejuvenated the bonded gaskets per this old post I found from Jim. Discarded the incorrect gaskets from the hygrade kit and put most of it back together.

IMG_0475.jpeg
 
Carefully scrapped off the crappy base gasket from the hygrade kit. It got stuck to the bonded gasket real good, but luckily you can tell the difference between the two while scraping.

IMG_0481.jpeg


Time to rejuvenate these bonded gaskets and get it put back together!
 
Last edited:
The first image shows ca spec carb to open the secondary to 25° at wot. I bent the tang so that it is around 32° open when at wot. Setup the fast idle screw based off the specs in the last figure, and started getting parts re-installed.

IMG_0495.jpeg


I did a quick pass over the intake manifold with a file and it was very warped. Filed it flat as best as possible and rejuvenated the bonded gaskets on the carb insulator.

IMG_0505.jpeg


Had to stop here to catch the dodger game.

IMG_0506.jpeg
 
Adjusted the idle mix screw with the lean drop method. Wow, this thing revs and sounds so much better! I verified that we are idling on the slow jets as there is no fuel coming out the main jet until I give it gas by hand. Once I give it gas the accelerator pump fires in fuel and the main jet on the primary kicks in. Hopefully I can perform the paper clip test for the secondary tomorrow.

Left the idle just a bit high since the air cleaner is off. I’ll readjust once it’s all put back together.

IMG_0511.jpeg
 
Well, dang it. Not how I wanted the test drive to end! It was driving amazing and I could feel the secondary working, but after 20 min it started sputtering and died.

IMG_0538.jpeg


The bolt for the throttle positioner ejected itself and started to backfire on decel. However, I don’t think that’s what stranded us because it sputtered and popped when I gave it throttle.

I took off the air cleaner lid and verified that the accelerator pump was working. Used the tool kit to disconnect the accelerator pump and give it gas (to verify that it wasn’t too rich) but that didn’t work. Also inspected the sight glass and the fuel level seems to be correct. Time to diagnose at home…
 
Just got home and started it up but it still died when I gave it throttle. Decided to try and give it full choke just to see what it does. It actually ran fine and I was able to get it back in the driveway. Not exactly sure what that means but maybe someone can chime in.

Also, I need one of these shoulder bolts for the throttle positioner arm. Please let me know if anyone has one I can purchase!

IMG_0540.jpeg


IMG_0539.jpeg


IMG_0486.jpeg
 
Unrelated but noteworthy! I blew up the motor on this 12 years ago to the month, and just finished up a 5 year restoration.

Here is the first heat cycle:


View attachment 3729489

View attachment 3729490

View attachment 3729491

View attachment 3729492

View attachment 3729493

Loved my 250R. My buddy had the Quadracer(still has). So much fun!! We both purchased Yamaha Banshee's when they came out. FAST!
Love the build and the Cruiser of course.

BTW, where did you get your cover for the FJ? I have one but it is falling Apart. lol

4tr.jpg
 
Loved my 250R. My buddy had the Quadracer(still has). So much fun!! We both purchased Yamaha Banshee's when they came out. FAST!
Love the build and the Cruiser of course.

BTW, where did you get your cover for the FJ? I have one but it is falling Apart. lol

View attachment 3767377
Thanks! Those are all awesome machines as well 🤘 This is the link for the cover I'm using https://amzn.to/48W2tnr
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom