'77 FJ40 buildup in Charlotte (finally)

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Nice truck! It is always nice to do a build on someone else's dime.
 
I would give some serious thought as to the radiator you plan to use. IME, that OE size ain't going to cut it, unless you like +230F temps.

What area of Charlotte are you in? I'm going to be in Matthews and Cornelius all this week for work.
 
I'm actually in Fort Mill, just across the border.

The CCOT radiator was sold off and an aluminum V8 unit replaced it. Initially, it was was thought that a brass radiator would be easier to "field repair", but a little research proved that to be false.
 
I'm in Charlotte as well...

I have a 76 cruiser....I've had it since highschool (roughly 13 years). Does the email attached to your contact info work?
I've recently been reunited with the cruiser ( its been with my parents in Alabama)...I could possibly use some advise in the near future. I don't know if you want to give out your email...Thanks.
 
I had to clean up alot of little things at this point, like one of the saginaw bolt heads falling half way off the shackle reversal plate.

Preloaded the tub with 600 lbs of tires to check ride height. These numbers began to look all wrong. We were comparing them to another cruiser with a 4 inch skyjacker lift, fiberglass body, and V8. We also noticed that the shackles appeared to be pointed in the wrong direction. A call to MAF was responded with assurances that "it will settle in" with a little time and use. (how come I don't believe that?)

After checking things again, we pulled leaves out from both front and back springs.

This will bear some watching....
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Sat down with a local body shop owner and sketched out a plan to mate the Pilgrim 3/4 tub to the existing firewall. The plan was to have the firewall blasted, grafted to the tub, and the whole thing epoxy etch primed. After paying money and waiting for a good three months, we were finally promised that it would be done. What we found when we arrived to pick the thing up was no prep on the firewall, and pealing primer on the tub.

Time to tally up the lost time and money, collect all the parts, and find someone else to try to put the project back on track. (sorry, the one thing I don't do is paint)

The folks at Independent Technologies, a streetrod shop in the Monroe NC area had been doing some of the larger blasting jobs for me. I approached them with the idea of helping to finish the project. They blasted the entire tub and all major pieces, and gave everything a nice sealing coat of epoxy etching primer. (yeah, bailed my a$$ out of a mess)
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When it came time to take measurements for the rear driveshaft, it was decided that 15 inches wasn't enough to squeeze a couple U-joints, slip yoke, and a CV. This meant I needed to gain three inches by flipping the rear leaf springs. I cut the wheel arches to fit the flairs by moving them back as far as they would go. While I was at it, we cut the spring perches off and clocked the pinion up a little. (notice the shackle angle)
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Sourced a set of Aisin hubs and Bobby Long hub gears to cover the warranty if needed. (couldn't stand the gold color though)
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Panel testfitting opened up big issues that I had not counted on. Seat mounting holes in the floor didn't match up with the brackets, replacement fenders didn't fit worth a damn, and there seemed to be captive nuts and holes with no purpose in other places.

Weld up holes....
Drill new holes....
Rivnut....

We also dumped the ambulance doors for an old set of half doors, as this truck will only be fitted for a soft top at best. (thanks again Georg!!)

I took the opportunity to mock up a roll cage. It turned out well, but I'm not wild about the design. Does anyone want to buy a .120 walled DOM cage?
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Test fitted a Flaming River tilt column with a BTB firewall mount. I started calling around for prices and availability on the columns. After some searching, I found the most competitive price at the very same place that was doing the paint work for me. (bailed out by the folks at Independent Technologies again)
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After I was done with all the test-fitting I cold think of, I pulled everything back apart and sent the tub out to the local line-x dealer to have the underside, firewall, and inside shot.
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I've been asked to share in the past, but the build was just going too slowly to even be able to keep up. After we sorted out the problems witht the painter, it's seemed to pick up speed.

After flipping the springs, I test-fitted a rear driveshaft from Carolina Driveline. This thing just might work?! The shaft ended up being 18 inches in total.
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how much to linx the inside and the underside? lifetime warranty? and did they do the prep themselves?

lookin good

thanks,
ant
 
drool

someone is dropping some serious coin on this rig.

looks fantastic
 
how much to linx the inside and the underside? lifetime warranty? and did they do the prep themselves?

lookin good

thanks,
ant

Full bill on the linex for both sides was $1100 (including the fenders and dog house). They did all the prep. I delivered the parts to them in epoxy primer. I was worried about the CCOT fenders being too thin to take a good rock shot from the treads. I'm hoping the linex helps that cause.
 
Got some new shoes for the old girl. I had to make some new upper shock mounts for the rear shocks, due to moving the axle back three inches. A couple 5/8 bolts and nylock nuts did the trick.
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Before going to pick up the tub for final assembly, I tried to wrap up a bunch of small jobs that would be much easier with a bare frame. One thing that concerned me was the distance between front engine mounts, and rear transfer case mount. All that multiplied torque acting on the transmission housing didn't give me the warm fuzzies.

After seeking input here, I decided to add a removable crossmember and urethane bushing under the transmission. It was designed to allow for the front driveshaft on one side, and exhaust routing on the other.
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